Shoe Damage Report & Shoe P0rn Central - Part II

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Oyaji, Feb 20, 2010.

  1. isshinryu101

    isshinryu101 Senior member

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    HA! A vintage man after my own heart. By the way, when you get the chance, please send me those vintage shoe pics you mentioned.
     
    Last edited: Nov 25, 2011


  2. mcarthur

    mcarthur Senior member

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    [​IMG]
    alden ravello
    argyles otc
     


  3. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

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    IDon't fully understand you G. Vass calls the Norweger flamboyant and controversial ,and a variation of the Blucher, but nowhere (I Know of) a whole-cut.

    A whole-cut upper, with none or one functional seam, usually at the back, is different to the Norweger in the Vass iteration with 3 seams and a 3 piece upper. The Dover has 4 seams, and a counter which you've said doesn't balance. To my eye it does exactly that.

    Looking side on, the Dover's centrepoint has a piecrust vamp on one side, and the rounded counter on the other. To me that's balance, and it's consistent with the fact that the Norweger is a variant of the Derby, which commonly does have a counter.

    The Dover may be a hybrid, but it's hard to deny the craft of it. The ghosted split toe seam, and the piecrust top seam have more complex work than the Vass version hands down. I'd hate to see that skill decline.

    What I really like about the Norweger idea is its stability and simplicity of design. In its purest form the Norweger is just 3 pieces of leather stitched together to provide a roomy, toe-friendly chamber. Like a moccasin.

    As for 'fashion item', the Norweger is as fashionable as Porty boy is a trend setter- which is to say not at all. No offence to him, but has he even posted in the last couple years? And has anyone replaced him? No Norweger, no matter who rocks it, will ever have the cache of a sleek bal, more's the pity, because in the rite context have just the right combination of informality, comfort and simplicity .





    [​IMG] maybe not black tho.
     


  4. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Here is a video in Norwegian (language) showing a Norwegian (Jan Petter Myhre) making a Norwegian (shoe).
    Can it get more authentic than that? That shoe has, shock, horror, a heel-counter.


    [VIDEO][/VIDEO]


    Goodness - Nobody would presume that!!!
     
    Last edited: Nov 26, 2011


  5. uniesse

    uniesse Senior member

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    I think these are great. Any more information on them? Cannot find any on the web at all. Still able to purchased?
     


  6. aj_del

    aj_del Senior member

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    I dont think they are in production any longer
     
    Last edited: Nov 26, 2011


  7. luk-cha

    luk-cha Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    on the dover i dont get why there need to be a HC other than for strengthening the support of the ancle or its an English thing, i do like the clean lines of the vass but i prefer the wat the dover is hand stitched on the vamp

    on the halmos that to me is just a mess design wises and looks like a italian shoe pretending to be a US syled version - big fail for me!
     


  8. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I do believe the heel-counter balances the heavy toe, so it makes the shoe less front-heavy. By the same token, French makers like to run an additional seam below the top line (this example is Weston’s “Chasse”).

    [​IMG]

    Presumably it serves the same purpose as the heel-counter: adding a ying to the yang and making the design more balanced.

    [​IMG]
     


  9. isshinryu101

    isshinryu101 Senior member

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    that's a Grail Shoe for me.
     


  10. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    i do, anyway.
     


  11. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    the vass looks handstitched to me.
     


  12. greekgeek

    greekgeek Senior member

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    Ah yes, coming soon. Turns out I deleted those which I had already taken...
     
    Last edited: Nov 26, 2011


  13. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

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    be interested in DWF 's opinion- they look handstiched to me, which adds to the rusticity and authenticity. But then so does the C&J Onslow in cordovan (bottom) with its irregularites, and I'd be surprised if it's a hand job. Anyone know ?


    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]






    Issh- for me too, although whenever I see it in user pics it looks a little blobby and bulky. A real beater. Have to wait to see it in person.
     


  14. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    How can you know for sure? The only one that is absolutely certainly hand stitched is the upper left hand shoe. The stitching on the apron is "split and lift" and that cannot be done by machine.

    That said, at a guess I would say they were all hand stitched.
     


  15. aj_del

    aj_del Senior member

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    FWIW, in the new CJ catalog, there are 2 models in the handgrade range with the apron and they are explicitly mentioned as hands titched. The models in the benchgrade line are silent as to the stitching aspect
     


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