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Burton

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Awesome! Love them both, but the JL really stands out to me with the very subtle pingrain. Wear them well!


Slewfoot I like that pingrain as well, I think it works really well on that shoe and Vass are sweet!
 

aj_del

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Thanks everyone for your comments.

Thanks, David, for your help with Vass sizing
 

Slewfoot

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My pleasure! Glad it paid off.
 

Burton

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Burton

I will have to run against the grain of comments on these. I don't understand why anyone would purchase this shoe. Shell is not at all an elegant material. These are not rugged or foul weather shoes. Why pair shell with this design and why use this sole? I think there is tremendous group think going on when these are viewed as works of art and not, as I see them, a set of ugly glasses with funny nozes and a mustache. I don't mean to spoil the party but people really need to stop looking and the words shell cordovan and saying "amen."[/quote]

i can hear you walking...


I might stay. Someone needs to point out when the emporor isn't wearing any clothes, or, in this case, when he has no shoes. :)
 
Last edited:

jhcam8

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Good to see some banter.
Over the last year I have made a point of purging all shoes that don't fit or I just don't wear anymore to make room for a set of core basics from EG, JL, GC & StC.
I have a 2 pairs of C&J that I call beaters for foul weather & travel.
I have a few pairs of Alden & Tod's for smart casual.
& now that I have the basics covered in my foot ware, the start for pieces that are to be worn maybe once month or when I feel like it such as the EGTD Oundle.
GW


I've been doing the same with a slightly different mix.
 

Cuttingboard

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This thread is going to be hell on my wallet, I have about 10 pairs of shoes on my list that I'm actively searching to find my size so I can order!!

I think *most* of even the most hardcore shellheads agree that calfskin is sometimes better for a given style.


And this brings up an question that I've been curious about for sometime but have not found an answer...what is the advantage of shell over calf and is shell considered more formal? I've seen posts that indicates that shell does not crease as bad as calf...is this because horse hide is thicker and less supple?

On another note, how do you guys keep creasing around the toes to a minimum? I always insert shoe trees after wearing and keep the leather conditioned. I believe I read that someone applies mink oil in the crease area before wearing.
 

Cuttingboard

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Good to see some banter.
Over the last year I have made a point of purging all shoes that don't fit or I just don't wear anymore to make room for a set of core basics from EG, JL, GC & StC.
I have a 2 pairs of C&J that I call beaters for foul weather & travel.
I have a few pairs of Alden & Tod's for smart casual.
& now that I have the basics covered in my foot ware, the start for pieces that are to be worn maybe once month or when I feel like it such as the EGTD Oundle.
GW


I'm doing the same...except I'm keeping a pair of black & brown Cole Haan cap toes that look almost identical to the C&J Hallam for foul weather days since they have rubber soles.

For Christmas, I'm buying myself a pair of black C&J Lownes and Drummonds for everyday business attire.

This spring, I have my eyes on a couple pairs of Carmina's, the Tan Full Brogues and double monk.

I would love to buy a pair of G&G Rothchild's in vintage chestnut but need to find a place near me so I can try them on before I spend that amount of dough on a pair of shoes.
 

Burton

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This thread is going to be hell on my wallet, I have about 10 pairs of shoes on my list that I'm actively searching to find my size so I can order!!
And this brings up an question that I've been curious about for sometime but have not found an answer...what is the advantage of shell over calf and is shell considered more formal? I've seen posts that indicates that shell does not crease as bad as calf...is this because horse hide is thicker and less supple?
On another note, how do you guys keep creasing around the toes to a minimum? I always insert shoe trees after wearing and keep the leather conditioned. I believe I read that someone applies mink oil in the crease area before wearing.


Shell is not more formal - it is less formal by a long shot. For many of us, even though we like shell, we believe shell inappropriate for shoes other than country or foul weather shoes. It wears warmer (breathes less) and is pretty close to waterproof. It does not last easily and tends to give back its shape and become blobby. It works well for boots, brogues, budapesters and norwegers. I think the Oundle is far too refined for Shell but that is just my opinion.

I wouldn't touch shell with anything other than water, good quality polish and horsehair brushes--not much polish is needed ever.
 

ltontheqt

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As much I like shoe pron (design, sole treatment, materials, construction etc), discussions about fit should be on top of the list for shoes, bespoke and RTW. Based on my experience, if you have have low volume feet, Vass is not for you. You need average to above average instep to fit well in Vass. Also, if you have wide feet, U last would not fit, so best to admire from afar. F last is by the far the easiest to get right fit-wise. EG lasts tend to fit closer. With some trial and error, very good fit can be had with EG for most people. However, the trial and error process can take a while and some expense as most dealers don't stock EGs in narrow or wide widths, and MTOs take a while. G&Gs fit very close and have lower than average instep. I think their lasts should serve people with low volume feet well though I suspect most buyers are more seduced by its aesthetics, at least at the get-go. Alden are my favourite beaters especially in Modified last. It has good overall support and has a quirky shape which I like. Carmina offer very good lasts in standard fittings. I relate to Rain and Robert lasts but having tried a few other lasts at The Armoury, I'd say that Carmina lasts should fit most average feet quite well. Price/quality ratio and MTO lead times are also very good compared with the other makes I mentioned before.


I want get at the volume issue. My feet are or normal width, but they are flat. In your opinion, does this absolutely eliminate Vass as an option for me?
 

fritzl

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As much I like shoe pron (design, sole treatment, materials, construction etc), discussions about fit should be on top of the list for shoes, bespoke and RTW.


exactly. it's most important, period.
 

fritzl

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fritzl

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I've been doing the same with a slightly different mix.


actually, why buying shoes that don't fit in the first place? although i never had a strict concept in my shoe regiment, i cannot think of giving one away. there's been a reason why i got them and meanwhile almost all have inherited lots of stories...
 

Burton

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this is too funny...


I know you aren't a fan of the Dover, Fritzl. I like it. I couldn't decide which color to get and saw them on his blog. Hey, the critic is always open to criticism, no? I can take it. :)
 

fritzl

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I know you aren't a fan of the Dover, Fritzl. I like it. I couldn't decide which color to get and saw them on his blog. Hey, the critic is always open to criticism, no? I can take it. :)


not a fan? you're kidding. imo, it's a disaster due to the number of stitching patterns. at the end of the day, nothing really to worry about. there are more fish in the sea, though. you're a good sport...
 

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