Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Oyaji, Feb 20, 2010.
Wait- no Dovers?
Next shall be nicer, some modification on the last, narrower cut welt, some more fun on the sole...
Cravate - are those your Ugolini's? Slick stuff.
looking forward to them!!!!!
this is a shame he was closed when I went to see him this past summer...
Personally I don't care for wide, heavy welts and the coarse stitching that can sometimes accompany it. But wider welts do have a function--they protect the vamp of the shoe.
tell us more
Well, very simply...only a very few of us wear our shoes exclusively on rugs or to get from one chair to another. Most of the time our shoes interface with the world--rocks, twigs, concrete curbs, car doors, etc..
Welts function as a "bumper"of sorts. And one that is replaceable.
Take it to its logical extreme...shoes with closely trimmed cement sole construction almost always get more scarred and scuffed on the sides of the shoe than on the toe.
Well, I dont think that the welt is extraordinarily wide, it is rather elegant/normal IMHO, but I just want it narrower for another model.
when is the next model due?
thanks for the explanation!
who hates black shoes...
For me, it's just the opposite. The welt can be used as a 2nd canvas (in addition to the uppers) where some wonderful things can take place.
I suspect it's more about personal taste than anything else.
That said as a shoemaker (and not all other shoemakers will agree with me) beauty, excellence, and to a large extent even quality, are about refinement.
Doing large stitches is easy. Doing 10, 12, even 16 stitches per inch on a welt, by hand...which Rees termed "middling work"....tests you. It tests your eye. It tests your control. It tests your techniques and materials.
My wife and I dance ballroom (we're rank amateurs) and I've taken lessons over the years from some very well regarded teachers--national champions, in several cases. One of them told me that '"big movements just look dumb." I think it applies across the board, if for no other reason than it screams "Look at me!." Like posting all in caps.
And the trouble with that is that once you do, you quickly realize you've seen all there is to see and don't need to look any further.
Nuance and detail draw the perceptive observer in...only to discover that there's more there than meets the eye.
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