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Shoe Damage Report & Shoe P0rn Central - Part II

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Oyaji, Feb 20, 2010.

  1. isshinryu101

    isshinryu101 Senior member

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    GREAT run of shoes posted lately. I mean, how much more diverse can we get than St. Crispins vs. EG, then AE, Sea Turtle Monks, Ron Rider Shell, & Santoni Dub Monks to top it all off!

    Excellent postings by all. Keep it going!!!
     


  2. isshinryu101

    isshinryu101 Senior member

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    Here's a sharp contrast to the "elegance of lasts" debate between St. Crispins & EG.

    Just the opposite, in the late 1940's and early 1950's many US makers were in strong competition to make the Biggest, Baddest Muthah of a shoe they could. From those battles, the Florsheim Imperial Gunboat emerged as the most timeless of the group & is still quite popular today.

    My goal has been to find the Biggest & Baddest of the group, and here's the clear winner so far.

    Boyd's of Saint Louis (now long gone) from the Threadneedle collection (maker unknown). Circa approx. 1951 (based on various 1940's & 1950's shoe ads I've researched to find similar styles.

    These are the heaviest shoes I've ever worn, weighing a tad over 3 3/4 pounds (at a size 8 1/2, that's a lot).

    The insane Triple Soles measure nearly 5/8 of an inch thick (compared to the Vintage Florsheim Gunboat which comes in at 4/8).

    Now-a-days, you only see top sole edges like that in Norvegese stitched shoes. Beautiful in their Brutality, I think.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

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    [​IMG]
     


  3. VRaivio

    VRaivio Senior member

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    Ishi, those are just...mean. I find this mix of balmoral and gunboat an interesting find. Thanks for sharing!
     


  4. isshinryu101

    isshinryu101 Senior member

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    Thanks, friend. Glad you like them. The more I look at US Vintage shoes, the more I see how they heavily influenced modern makers, especially the Italians. There was a run in US shoes where the ultra wide topsole was all the rage. I can't help but to believe that styling led the Italians to take it a step further & "decorate" that topsole edge with a Norvegese Stitch. The Norvegese IS functional, and is said to exceed Goodyear's stitch in terms of waterproofing. However, I think the Italians simply decided it was a great spot to use as a "canvas" to showcase their skills.
     


  5. HORNS

    HORNS Senior member

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    That's a very cool shoe. Thanks for sharing these pics.
     


  6. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    not at all. just never seen this and not in the showroom, where almost all lasts were on display. if i may say, looks like some bestetti posted recently to me.
     


  7. meister

    meister Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    Interesting how the flying side stitching of the US wingtip is utilized with a brogued captoe. The stitching overall is complex in the 50s style and well finished and the shoe is in magnificent repair.
     
    Last edited: Aug 4, 2011


  8. isshinryu101

    isshinryu101 Senior member

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    Meister, my friend, you could drop a freaking nuclear bomb on these & I doubt they'd even get scratched.

    I KNOW it's comparing "apples to oranges", but vintage leather is the reason why I'm so SHOCKED by modern shoes by TOP MAKERS that crack! I've got a collection of shoes from 50 to nearly 90 years old, and I VERY RARELY run into a crack. I doubt they used "Saphir Renoateur", yet the leather lasts a lifetime. I'm confused by the apologists.
     


  9. hendrix

    hendrix Ill-proportioned

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    Sorry if i'm being ignorant, but is it actually possible to do blake/rapid construction with a storm welt? Does that mean that the midsole has a lip running all the way around it? sounds really difficult to make.
     


  10. SpooPoker

    SpooPoker Internet Bigtimer and Most Popular Man on Campus Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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  11. meister

    meister Senior member

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    Hear hear! From 90 years old to present...
     


  12. rabiesinfrance

    rabiesinfrance Senior member

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    Those shoes were definitely made to last. Good quality, hardwearing leather.

    I've got a pair of vintage Tecnic boots and I have to say the zug grain leather is the best I've seen - nicer than Tricker's or Sargent. The leather is Martin leather - the factory (located in Scotland) closed down in the early 1980s.
     
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2011


  13. JayJay

    JayJay Senior member

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    The bal gunboats would look great with a flannel or tweed suit.
     


  14. PhiloVance

    PhiloVance Senior member

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    That is some kind of sole :nodding:

    I think you might be able to walk to the ends of the earth in those things and not need a resole. You would probably also develop sick-looking calf muscles. . .
     


  15. HORNS

    HORNS Senior member

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    I'm still mesmerized by these. It's such a chunky, masculine, and eccentric shoe but I'd love to own a pair.

    meister, what do you mean by "flying side stitching"? Is it the ones up in the quarters below the eyelets?
     


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