Shoe Damage Report & Shoe P0rn Central - Part II

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Oyaji, Feb 20, 2010.

  1. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    33,479
    Likes Received:
    8,847
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2006
    Location:
    New York City
    

    I attribute this to the reason why many girl's leather boots even when not cared for very well stay wearable for a very long time without cracking. The higher heel and toe spring pretty much makes them not bend nearly as much as a typical man's shoe. Would you agree?
     


  2. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

    Messages:
    12,053
    Likes Received:
    587
    Joined:
    Jun 5, 2008
    frommer - can you teach us more about toe springs? thanks
     


  3. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    8,335
    Likes Received:
    2,952
    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2008
    Location:
    The Highlands of Central Oregon
    

    Well, I don't know. I have never had to try to explain it before...nor given it much thought. But....

    Toe spring is employed on lasts and in shoes for a number of reasons but one of the main ones is to reduce the amount of creasing in the forepart of the shoe.

    The foot has a range of motions it must go through as a step is initiated and then completed. The final stage of any step is pushing off from the toe. At that stage, the foot is fundamentally "hinged" at the treadline--the "joint." If the forepart of the shoe is already in a "bent"/flexed position then the shoe will not need to crease as much as if the shoe is flat.

    Theoretically, the higher the heel, the less toe spring is needed simply because raising the heel puts the foot into a a flexed position even before the step is taken.

    Too much toe spring and the foot may feel uncomfortable...at least initially...and the shoe will look awkward. Too little and the vamp creases inordinately.

    And that's the important part. Creasing makes the leather rub against itself and eventually, especially if the shoe is not maintained/kept clean, increases the risk of cracking in the creases.

    Just call me "DW."
     


  4. Cravate_Noire

    Cravate_Noire Senior member

    Messages:
    3,013
    Likes Received:
    670
    Joined:
    Jan 13, 2007



    No, that really does not make sense, you are trying to push your personal oppinion as truth here.
    You even ditched out Santoni here (what made C&A smile, so good job! He said to give you an easy time as you have a really deep dislike for anything from Vienna; I guess that is not only limited to fritzl ;) )

    You can have better or worse contruction and finish.
    But you can not have per se ugly designs and lasts which are always ugly and to everyone with a bit of understanding, at least not within the limits of EG and StC.
    Of course an item one judge's as ugly become irrelevant, despite any better or worse contruction compared to another one, but that is still very personal.
    Srewdriver is redundant to me as well btw.
     


  5. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    8,335
    Likes Received:
    2,952
    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2008
    Location:
    The Highlands of Central Oregon
    

    Very much so.
     


  6. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

    Messages:
    6,117
    Likes Received:
    652
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2003
    Location:
    sage
    


    lol
    give it your best shot
    it matters none

    of course it is an opinion
    as is yours
    unless you think yours otherwise

    crispins:
    losts of fugly designs
    and some clumsy lasts
    but handwelted

    eg:
    lots of nice designs
    and lots of nice lasts
    but machine welted

    now if how you extrapolate ur
    conclusions
    means you need moar
    engrish prease
     
    Last edited: Aug 3, 2011


  7. Cravate_Noire

    Cravate_Noire Senior member

    Messages:
    3,013
    Likes Received:
    670
    Joined:
    Jan 13, 2007



    No fritzl?
     


  8. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

    Messages:
    12,299
    Likes Received:
    201
    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2006
    Location:
    Braunau, Austria
    

    that's what i said...
     


  9. Cravate_Noire

    Cravate_Noire Senior member

    Messages:
    3,013
    Likes Received:
    670
    Joined:
    Jan 13, 2007

    I think EG are handlasted too ;)
     


  10. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    33,479
    Likes Received:
    8,847
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2006
    Location:
    New York City
    

    Not the toe.
     


  11. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

    Messages:
    6,117
    Likes Received:
    652
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2003
    Location:
    sage
    

    good one

    and edited for the catch
     


  12. tchoy

    tchoy Senior member

    Messages:
    1,478
    Likes Received:
    1,722
    Joined:
    Sep 16, 2004
    Location:
    Sydney, Australia
    

    I have only ordered the classic last from Saint Crispins not a fan of the screwdriver last, hopefully SC will develop more elegant last in the future


    I wanted the Oundles to wear with jeans and chinos. I didn't realise EG can do a 1.5 sole to a single sole as per slewfoot mention in a few post back. You can say I have buyer's remorse.



    That wasn't my intention to show EG was a more chunky, it was to show the difference in the sole thickness as slewfoot was asking about . It's even more evident when you wear the Saint Crispins, the waist treatment just hugs the arch firmly something I haven't experience with other high end shoes.
     


  13. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

    Messages:
    12,299
    Likes Received:
    201
    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2006
    Location:
    Braunau, Austria
    

    you must be serious. they already have. i'm not sure what this screwdriver talk is about??? there wasn't such "gaudy" thing in the showroom???
     


  14. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

    Messages:
    4,505
    Likes Received:
    555
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2008
    Location:
    New York
    

    Thanks! Here's a photo of them darkened a bit which I think looks even better. Got out a bit of the yellow and added more tan.

    [​IMG]


    Sorry!
     


  15. meister

    meister Senior member

    Messages:
    7,470
    Likes Received:
    697
    Joined:
    Feb 10, 2007
    

    get the phoque outta here....:embar:
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by