Shoe Damage Report & Shoe P0rn Central - Part II

[DWFII]



Actually, the best answer to this question is people need to stop seeking perfection.

It's folly.

At least for humans.

+1

Of all the things...issues...that a savvy buyer ought to be concerned with, this is probably the least important, if not wholly insignificant.

There are too many examples of off center medallions, tilted vamps, stitch crowded broguing, etc., associated with really high end, highly touted shoes...all of which has a tendency to go totally unnoticed. Nevermind construction techniques that actually do affect longevity and objective quality.

 

[Wes Bourne]



What you see is the roller foot marks from the stitcher and, honestly, why it is so difficult to work with shell cordovan.

Yup, surprised no one seems to have noticed that before, as those roller marks are quite common on shell shoes, perhaps more visible/obvious with certain makers than others. Imo, not an issue at all and as Ron said, it's sort of to be expected with shell for the reasons he described.

Of all the things...issues...that a savvy buyer ought to be concerned with, this is probably the least important, if not wholly insignificant.

There are too many examples of off center medallions, tilted vamps, stitch crowded broguing, etc., associated with really high end, highly touted shoes...all of which has a tendency to go totally unnoticed. Nevermind construction techniques that actually do affect longevity and objective quality.

+1 to that.

You want fucked up? I give you fucked up, tilted vamp and all.

Why would you not simply buy a pair of NOS vintage shell gunboats on eBay? Those are very ordinary gunboats in last shape IMO.

You make it sound like it's easy to find a quality NOS shell longwing in a common size (i.e. not a size 12AA or whatever) on ebay...

 

[SpooPoker]



Not that EG needs any defending......but this caught my eye and thought I would offer up an opinion.

What you see is the roller foot marks from the stitcher and, honestly, why it is so difficult to work with shell cordovan. Shell is not consistent in it's weight (thickness) through each shell and the stitcher must be calibrated to guide from the lowest level. The fact that there are going to be some high spots (which cause the pressure and the indentation of the roller foot) is simply par for the course. It would be impossible for the person pattern stitching to anticipate this. Also, since you really can't iron and steam shell as effectively as calf in the finishing room, these marks just don't pull out.

To be perfectly honest, this is one of the finer examples of factory made shell shoes I have seen in quite some time. I wouldn't even accept an order with this much perfing involved. Hell, I don't even like to accept orders for shell shoes or boots with a medallion - causes a lot of breaking in work......and that's very expensive trash.

It is absolutely unfair to expect a shell shoe or boot to have the same tight lines and finishing as calfskin. It is a totally different material with different characteristics that are very difficult to control.

And, finally, most factories - not just UK ones - dislike working with shell. At least the workers do, as they are the ones that always get called to the carpet when something doesn't come out as hoped. Unfortunately, shell has a mind of it's own.

Excellent post, and thank you for the clarification. I didnt know this, as none of my shell shoes have it. Good to know though.

 

[VRaivio]



Actually, the best answer to this question is people need to stop seeking perfection.

It's folly.

At least for humans.

Well, try stating this to the various style forum members interviewed in this article: Fop Culture.

...and I thought I had it bad.

 

[tchoy]

Saint Crispins double monks in Russian Reindeer Calf

 

[meister]

Beyond beautiful and the shiney toe is unbelievable. How long did they spend on doing that? Russian reindeer cals aka NOT Metta Catherina?

 

[MalfordOfLondon]

Those have got to be some of the nicest shoes I've seen on here. Simply wonderful.

 

[VictorSF]

Great shoes!

I have a similar pair of SC, but in another block (I have them in the block № 505)

Your shoe - much nicer!

What is the basic block was used by you when ordering?

Or is it a re-designed shoe for you?

I love it!

 

[Cravate_Noire]



Great shoes!

I have a similar pair of SC, but in another block (I have them in the block № 505)

Your shoe - much nicer!

What is the basic block was used by you when ordering?

Or is it a re-designed shoe for you?

I love it!

Yours is on the chiseled, his is on the Riva last. Both fit exactly the same btw. despite the optical differences.

 

[kev777]



Great shoes!

I have a similar pair of SC, but in another block (I have them in the block № 505)

Your shoe - much nicer!

What is the basic block was used by you when ordering?

Or is it a re-designed shoe for you?

I love it!

Absolutely wonderful pair of monks

 

[SpooPoker]

Holy ****, reindeer dub munx FTW

 

[tchoy]



Beyond beautiful and the shiney toe is unbelievable. How long did they spend on doing that? Russian reindeer cals aka NOT Metta Catherina?

Thanks! It doesn't come like that from the factory, a good friend have spent many hours of elbow grease to achieved that finish. The supply of Russian reindeer calf do come from Metta Catherina but it seems there are never ending supplies of this stuff.

Those have got to be some of the nicest shoes I've seen on here. Simply wonderful.

Thanks!

Great shoes!

I have a similar pair of SC, but in another block (I have them in the block № 505)

Your shoe - much nicer!

What is the basic block was used by you when ordering?

Or is it a re-designed shoe for you?

I love it!

Victor you have very good taste. Your shoes are on the chiseled last, my are on the classic last, it is exactly the same shoe apart from the toes.

 

[T4phage]



The supply of Russian reindeer calf do come from Metta Catherina but it seems there are never ending supplies of this stuff.

it does not look like the catherina stuff
which has a crosshatched pattern
ala cleverley/n&l

these look more like what santoni uses
because eg's willow grain pattern is
a bit 'tighter'

 

[alexSF]

Metta Catherina supply should be finished by a long time, I think that the story that It is still available, it is a legend in the legend...

 

[Achillus]

I like your monks but i'm more of a Santoni fan.

Spoiler

Saint Crispins double monks in Russian Reindeer Calf