Shoe Damage Report & Shoe P0rn Central - Part II

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Oyaji, Feb 20, 2010.

  1. well-kept

    well-kept Senior member

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    EG might be within their rights to point out that English makers are well-known for their distaste for working in shell. They might say "We've always told you Americans it's not proper material for refined shoes." Personally, I think those look fairly good and in a few years will look better.
     


  2. VRaivio

    VRaivio Senior member

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    meister, I'm hesitant to go for vintage shell. I bought a pair once, looked all fine and proper on pictures, but when they arrived I noticed that the uppers had dried up. I couldn't save the pair.
     


  3. MalfordOfLondon

    MalfordOfLondon Senior member

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    My C&J for RL Darlton Wingtips have this:

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     


  4. kev777

    kev777 Senior member

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    ^^^^ That almost looks uniform enough to be "supposed to be like that" i may ,of course, be wrong. Is it all over the shoes Stephen ???
     


  5. MalfordOfLondon

    MalfordOfLondon Senior member

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    Yup - all over the shoe but most apparent in the area I photographed. I've never paid that much attention to it before but I always assumed it was machine "teeth" marks.
     


  6. kev777

    kev777 Senior member

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    Although i understand the sentiment its a little lame to say "see we told you were no good at it!" If they feel its not a material to be used then dont use it. If your then going to make a MTO shoe for someone then at least warn them that they could be below normal standards. Its also true to say that C&J offer Shell within their standard range and Church's offer crup as standard. Maybe its time for some of them who dont like it to leave well alone?

    I agree that the shoes posted from EG will probably age very well and the defects will be virtually undetectable.
     


  7. VRaivio

    VRaivio Senior member

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    kev777, all of my shell shoes have those machine teeth marks, it's just a question of how much a perfectionist will tolerate. Posting pics of these marks will help determine which maker has the most shell-suitable machines; something that may help in making decisions on MTO orders. Of course none of these marks can be seen if I don't shove my feet on someone's face.
     


  8. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    People here seriously think those EG whiskey shell's don't look good because of a few minor nicks and ripples that are accentuated by a photograph? Some of my Vass have shown up in a similar state brand new from the box. Any minor issues with those EG's would have shown up within an hour of wear. These are clothes that are meant to be worn, not put on a mantel.

    VRaivio - wear them well and if they fit nicely I wouldn't consider doing anything except keeping them in your regular shoe rotation.
     


  9. RIDER

    RIDER Senior member

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    Not that EG needs any defending......but this caught my eye and thought I would offer up an opinion.

    What you see is the roller foot marks from the stitcher and, honestly, why it is so difficult to work with shell cordovan. Shell is not consistent in it's weight (thickness) through each shell and the stitcher must be calibrated to guide from the lowest level. The fact that there are going to be some high spots (which cause the pressure and the indentation of the roller foot) is simply par for the course. It would be impossible for the person pattern stitching to anticipate this. Also, since you really can't iron and steam shell as effectively as calf in the finishing room, these marks just don't pull out.

    To be perfectly honest, this is one of the finer examples of factory made shell shoes I have seen in quite some time. I wouldn't even accept an order with this much perfing involved. Hell, I don't even like to accept orders for shell shoes or boots with a medallion - causes a lot of breaking in work......and that's very expensive trash.

    It is absolutely unfair to expect a shell shoe or boot to have the same tight lines and finishing as calfskin. It is a totally different material with different characteristics that are very difficult to control.

    And, finally, most factories - not just UK ones - dislike working with shell. At least the workers do, as they are the ones that always get called to the carpet when something doesn't come out as hoped. Unfortunately, shell has a mind of it's own.
     


  10. VRaivio

    VRaivio Senior member

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    Ron to the rescue! Once again thanks for this special insight and helping hand.

    As for roller foot marks and perfing, do you feel wholecuts would be the optimal usage for shell cordovan -- for the perfectionists among SF members?
     


  11. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    Thanks for the insights Ron!
     


  12. RIDER

    RIDER Senior member

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    Sure thing.

    Actually, yes - but that has it's own risks. Primarily when/if a shell splits during lasting, that makes for a very expensive shoe. Plaintoe derby or chukka probably the best use of shell, IMO.
     


  13. MalfordOfLondon

    MalfordOfLondon Senior member

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    Every wholecut I've owned tended to crease really drastically. I think shell accentuate that even more.

    With regards to the EGs - I don't know what all the fuss is about. Compare that to the other end of the spectrum: shoes in the bespoke thread with medallions nearly 1" out of place being given a reprieve because it's a hand made product. Crazy times we live in...!
     


  14. RIDER

    RIDER Senior member

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    Actually, the best answer to this question is people need to stop seeking perfection.

    It's folly.

    At least for humans.
     


  15. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    Wise words...if the shoe fits, wear it!
     


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