Shoe Damage Report & Shoe P0rn Central - Part II

[DWFII]

Originally Posted by greekgeek

EG likely buy enough volume for JR to bend a little and provide the soles sans logo.
That would be my guess, as well.

 

[kolecho]

Originally Posted by Slewfoot

I find the JR logo to fade away after just one or two wearings. It's definitely not heavily imprinted on my pairs of Vass.
You are right, the printed logo comes off in no time. I doubt that it is a pain to remove during production, though some recent Vass has some soles that have embossed JR logo. In fact, Vass used to remove the printed JR logo until they got feedback that customers actually prefer to see the logo on the sole.

 

[fritzl]

Originally Posted by kolecho

In fact, Vass used to remove the printed JR logo until they got feedback that customers actually prefer to see the logo on the sole.

that was my guess, as well.

 

[DWFII]

The art of achieving a sweet, clear, clean, bottom finish is to avoid taking anything off the grain surface, if possible. That means super cleanliness and exceptional care in making. And even then, Thornton, et al, recommend a light snuffing...or among bespoke makers, a "glassing" (scraping with a piece of broken glass). The fact that it takes more than one wearing on much higher abrasive surfaces than fine sandpaper...ie. streets and sidewalks...should tell us something about how strongly it is imprinted there (most likely with heat, as well). I spoke to a Rendenbach rep years ago and he told me that a "good shoemaker shouldn't have to do anything to the bottoms of his outsoles" (tell that to every bespoke maker in the world) and that JR imprinted the logo there...in the middle of the forepart of the outsole rather than under the heel or on the back side...because they wanted to force customers to leave it in place rather than destroy the finish entirely trying to remove it. Go figure...

 

[patrickBOOTH]

Originally Posted by DWFII

The art of achieving a sweet, clear, clean, bottom finish is to avoid taking anything off the grain surface, if possible. That means super cleanliness and exceptional care in making. Go figure...

Then how does one get a fiddleback waist that is smooth without carving deep into the sole?

 

[shoefan]

Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH

Then how does one get a fiddleback waist that is smooth without carving deep into the sole?
Mainly by thinning/skiving the other side (flesh side) of the outsole in the waist before it is attached to the shoe. The maker may glass the grain side of the outsole when finishing the sole, but most of the shape comes from the preparatory skiving.

 

[DWFII]

^Spot on and great photo, Shoefan.

Also, the shank stiffener is covered or built up to create a foundational fiddleback shape.

 

[patrickBOOTH]

Originally Posted by shoefan

Mainly by thinning/skiving the other side (flesh side) of the outsole in the waist before it is attached to the shoe. The maker may glass the grain side of the outsole when finishing the sole, but most of the shape comes from the preparatory skiving.

Originally Posted by DWFII

^Spot on and great photo, Shoefan.

Also, the shank stiffener is covered or built up to create a foundational fiddleback shape.

Wow, this is awesome. A lot harder work than I had imagined.

 

[DWFII]

Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH

Wow, this is awesome. A lot harder work than I had imagined.
What's really the trick is to channel the skived edge of the waist.... The outsole is sewn onto the welt from the breast of the heel around to the other side. When the forepart is channeled you have roughly .5cm into which you can cut your channel (of course you must not cut more than half that depth). The channel needs to be deep enough to both hide and hold the stitches. When the waist is skived for fiddleback, you might have .25cm of substance to work with and the welt itself is often thinned as well. Do all that, hide the stitches completely and present a smooth glossy surface and edge that does not show any evidence of being channeled or sewn...!!!

and

 

[patrickBOOTH]

I can't imagine how much time it takes to get this all to come out correctly.

 

[NORE]

Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH

I can't imagine how much time it takes to get this all to come out all lickable n junk.
FTFY

 

[coolshoes]

zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz ....

 

[emptym]

^I found the discussion above to be very interesting.

Originally Posted by KObalto

I'm betting you really hate the Jesuits then.

Originally Posted by NOBD

Rimshot worthy. Definitely. Well, not hate; I just don't like them.
I love 'em. If not for that celibacy thing, I might have been one! But I'm w/ you, NOBD, on your preference for simple monkstraps.

 

[NOBD]

Originally Posted by emptym

^I found the discussion above to be very interesting.



I love 'em. If not for that celibacy thing, I might have been one! But I'm w/ you, NOBD, on your preference for simple monkstraps.

I'm glad you saved yourself.

 

[iroh]

Originally Posted by isshinryu101

My favorite Pebble Grain Wingtips. Again, not your "every day" grain, but this'll certainly keep you regular.

what animal has this type of skin?