Shoe Damage Report & Shoe P0rn Central - Part II

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Oyaji, Feb 20, 2010.

  1. Andrew W

    Andrew W Member

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    The historic raindeer leather from the Meta Catherina von Flensburg has the beautiful little squares all over as a visual trademark. It comes from boarding it. It would be nice to use. The Russian raindeer hides had a distinct smell of birch from their tanning. They're also prized by collectors for upholstering their chairs from the period.
     


  2. clintonf

    clintonf Senior member

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    I read it again and I cannot tell which words were Fritzl's and which were yours, but I think from your response what I read was Fritzl quoting you. I'm sorry for engaging you in this confusing non debate. There was a quote about about "getting down from your high horse and I'll show you the real thing". I saw a photo of the AS country boot, which made me think that a mass produced item isn't more real than the Riccardo Bestetti bespoke. I mean no harm in either case even if the original quote was yours, I'm just talking about shoes. Unfortunately, I didn't come across that way. I do like the AS boots and I intend to make something similar for myself with a rubber sole attached over a leather outsole for excessively wet weather so I don't have to wait three days for one of my other pairs to dry.
    Andrew W


    Thank you for your clarification on the situation. Whether or not you like any items here is immaterial in my opinion. It's how you choose to express your opinions that concerns me.

    However, I look forward to seeing further examples of your footwear.

    Clint
     


  3. Andrew W

    Andrew W Member

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    Very nice. Beautiful boots
     


  4. Groover

    Groover Senior member

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    Wow! I pop out for the afternoon in my corrected grain, blake mcKay welted clown boots and I miss the SF love in ! [​IMG] Joking aside, Luk-Cha, Fritzl & Anddrew, thank you for taking the time to reply and put us all back on the straight and narrow. Often, when threads take on debate at length with multi quoting, the original point can be lost. No harm done. Back on topic, thanks to all for the comments. Luk-Cha, are both those pictures the 200 yr old reindeer leather? I recognise the familiar pattern from the top picture but not the second shot. A while back i did have some cufflinks made from an off cut. I've often thought about a pair, but not sure if the finish/texture is for me. There's something about it I'm just not sure about. I think perhaps I need to take a trip to London to see some in the flesh, seeing a completed shoe will convince me either way. Fritzl, I have peered into the Paprika thread from time to time. If I'm being honest I don't think (style wise) they're for me, but that aside, I've no doubt about the time, dedication and quality that has gone into them, that's evident. I shall continue to keep an eye. My approach for this year is more on the hand crafted, bespoke (maybe) angle. I'm only one of several customers that post their offerings from AS on here, admittedly I am a shoe freak and have probably posted more than most. That said, my collection is not limited to AS (as per my last post) and when I've got the time I will post some of my C&J, EG, et all. Happy new year to all, now lets see some pics!! [​IMG]
     


  5. imatlas

    imatlas Senior member

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    thank you. happy new year. i don't see the point that it would serve a purpose. nvm. i would suggest that you go through this "topic" to get an idea about my approach to shoes in general and in specific. i welcome the idea of you to introduce AS to the forum. all the reports written from various fellow forumites reflect an professional attitude of the company. this is a good thing.
    Translation: I'm rude, I only praise shoes in which I have a financial interest, and most of my posts are spam for my sales threads (which I can't be bothered to post to B&S).
     


  6. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    My approach for this year is more on the hand crafted, bespoke (maybe) angle.

    go for it, you won't regret it [​IMG]
     


  7. Andrew W

    Andrew W Member

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    Hi Andrew,

    I don't recall, either in this thread or others offering them as a 'superior alternative' to other fellows bepsoke shoes. Yes, the majority of my (recent) shoes are by Alfred Sargent. I have a good relationship and understanding with them, which ultimately results in the shoes that I want and most importantly fit. If posting pictures amounts to offering them as a 'superior alternative' then this forum surely has descended to new lows.

    For the record I own and have owned shoes from the majority of the UK manufacturers, the exception being John Lobb. Comparisons between them are always made and always will be, but I've never compared a MTO or RTW to Bespoke. I was asked about the cost of Alfred Sargent MTO and explained what was changed for a £75 markup, which in MY opinion represents good value for what I want.

    After many years of finding what fits I know my size, last, fitting in the following, Loake, Cheaney, Grenson, Church's, Edward Green, Alfred Sargent, Trickers, Crockett & Jones. Sadly, only G&G are the brand I struggle to get a good fit, without going up in size to the point where they're too long. Maybe in time I will find a combination in their lasts/fittings that does suit, which I would hope, because they make some wonderful looking shoes. But as things stand on the 3rd Jan 2011, I'm happy with my lot.


    I like G&G also and I think it has to do with the excellent traditional background that they both have. When a maker does a new design that draws upon traditional pattern making, the result is wonderful. If the maker never really knew what a traditional proportion looks like, the result doesn't resonate and the shoe doesn't look "classy". Its hard to explain, but you know it when you see it. G&G strikes that balance and makes fashion forward stuff better than the rest. So does the Japanese bespoke shoemaker Koji Suzuki, and the Norweigian bespoke shoemaker Jan Petre Mehre, with whom I've corresponded. He's a nice guy. For a straight up traditional classic, I admire ws foster, plus they have Terry Moore teaching everyone. I like the old fashioned look, but its great to move forward also. Maybe you can get G&G to make you your favorite in an E or EE so you don't have to go up in length to get the width. That probably makes it a pricey MTM though.
    Andrew W
     


  8. 888style

    888style Senior member

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    Any examples around? Never heard of the guy. Just interested.
     


  9. Groover

    Groover Senior member

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    IMaybe you can get G&G to make you your favorite in an E or EE so you don't have to go up in length to get the width. That probably makes it a pricey MTM though.
    Andrew W


    This is part of the dilemma. Style wise I'm pretty well covered now, so anything I do order will be because I want it not because I need it. Given the price of MTO (not just G&G) creeping up & the VAT increase imminent it's starting to get expensive. So rather than blow it on RTW I'm going to try some lasts from springline (already been measured) which AS have kindly offered to work with me. And then, just maybe, if Mrs Groover doesn't go too mental....I may go to Cleverly or F&S. That's a big maybe at present as I've got an expensive year coming up, but you've got to have a goal.
     


  10. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Any examples around? Never heard of the guy. Just interested.

    Here is the website of Jan Petter Myhre from Oslo:
    http://www.bespoke-shoes.com/

    He is a member here (although not a very frequent poster).
     


  11. Cuttingboard

    Cuttingboard Senior member

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    A lot of text and no pics recently.

    December damage - look forward to breaking all these bad boys out in the new year!


    [​IMG]


    Looking for a black wingtip...what model is this C&J? Thanks
     


  12. Andrew W

    Andrew W Member

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    This is part of the dilemma. Style wise I'm pretty well covered now, so anything I do order will be because I want it not because I need it. Given the price of MTO (not just G&G) creeping up & the VAT increase imminent it's starting to get expensive. So rather than blow it on RTW I'm going to try some lasts from springline (already been measured) which AS have kindly offered to work with me. And then, just maybe, if Mrs Groover doesn't go too mental....I may go to Cleverly or F&S. That's a big maybe at present as I've got an expensive year coming up, but you've got to have a goal.

    Getting your own last made from Springline is an excellent idea. I suggest getting simply your proper width and length rather than full bespoke. The fit will be perfect and you will save a ton of cash. 99 percent of the time the pre existing last fitted to length and width does the trick unless there is something unusual about your foot. The bespoke last is 500 USD equivalent, the standard last (for example, 9E) is 120 USD equivalent. However, it would be nice to know your last is bespoke and you will get a lot of use from it hopefully in the form of lots of future shoe orders, without resorting to buying too lengthy "clown shoes". I was going to post JP Mehre's website, but someone beat me to it. (www.bespoke-shoes.com) He makes his own lasts as well and must be doing fairly well because he has trunk shows in the US. Some of his designs may make you raise an eyebrow, but in general he strikes that balance of modern and traditional and his finshing work is so beautiful.

    I'm going to post some pictures since that is what this is about. Here are some Balmorals when they were fresh off the last, my ornate wholecuts when they were in progress, an Adelaide, a closeup of the stitching on a brogue upper in crust calf (I always dye my own leather) and a humorous picture of an example of polite discourse no matter what the message being conveyed is. These are all shoes I made for myself as part of my ongoing "hobby" of teaching myself shoemaking. I haven't made shoes for anyone except myself but I do hope to turn pro someday. I'm going to start making womens' shoes and will be bringing some of my crazier designs up to the February FFANY show in NYC (fashion footwear annual NY) to see what they think of them. I have a gorgeous friend who looks like Sophia Loren circa 1965 who is enthusiastic about offering her feet so I can practice fitting female shoes and bring her to the show to attract attention. When she gets dressed up, passersby are in danger of walking into things. Hopefully she can make it to the event.
    Andrew W

    (pics part 1 of 2) The shoes are all 9.5E US which is 8.5E UK
     


  13. Andrew W

    Andrew W Member

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    This is part of the dilemma. Style wise I'm pretty well covered now, so anything I do order will be because I want it not because I need it. Given the price of MTO (not just G&G) creeping up & the VAT increase imminent it's starting to get expensive. So rather than blow it on RTW I'm going to try some lasts from springline (already been measured) which AS have kindly offered to work with me. And then, just maybe, if Mrs Groover doesn't go too mental....I may go to Cleverly or F&S. That's a big maybe at present as I've got an expensive year coming up, but you've got to have a goal.

    I don't know what happened to my pictures. Second attempt (1 of 2)
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     


  14. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I don't know what happened to my pictures. Second attempt (1 of 2)

    How much were these? They look incredibly sloppy in so many ways...
     


  15. Andrew W

    Andrew W Member

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    This is part of the dilemma. Style wise I'm pretty well covered now, so anything I do order will be because I want it not because I need it. Given the price of MTO (not just G&G) creeping up & the VAT increase imminent it's starting to get expensive. So rather than blow it on RTW I'm going to try some lasts from springline (already been measured) which AS have kindly offered to work with me. And then, just maybe, if Mrs Groover doesn't go too mental....I may go to Cleverly or F&S. That's a big maybe at present as I've got an expensive year coming up, but you've got to have a goal.

    Pics part 2 of 2
    Andrew W
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     


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