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Shoe Damage Report & Shoe P0rn Central - Part II

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Oyaji, Feb 20, 2010.

  1. thefastlife

    thefastlife Senior member

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    starting a new job and my shoe game needs a major liift. however, my wallet does not allow me to spend as much as many of you like to on footwear.

    that said, i am in the $150-200 range. are AE 2nds the best I can do at that price? what about brands on Yoox and such?
     
  2. saint

    saint Senior member

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    As Mr Monty has pointed out, not sure on which thread, there are a lot of Sutor Mantellassi shoes on Yoox right now that are sub $150 if you have a code. Most of them are bookbinder leather, so after a couple of years they'll look crappy, but by then you will probably be ready to upgrade anyway.
     
  3. thefastlife

    thefastlife Senior member

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    i thought SM were high quality?
     
  4. saint

    saint Senior member

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    They are, but many high quality shoemakers use bookbinder. It's probably why they are so cheap on Yoox.
     
    Last edited: Feb 23, 2016
  5. mr monty

    mr monty Senior member

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    Very cheap on YOOX, but not bookbinder leather :puzzled:

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    Last edited: Feb 23, 2016
  6. mr monty

    mr monty Senior member

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    [​IMG]
    these are not from YOOX. Any SM that I have or I have seen with blue soles were top quality leather and construction.
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    Last edited: Feb 25, 2016
    1 person likes this.
  7. mr monty

    mr monty Senior member

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    checkout this link to RIDER, some decent $129 dress shoes
    http://riderboot.com/product-category/archive-sale-goods/
     
  8. saint

    saint Senior member

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    These are definitely bookbinder:

    http://www.yoox.com/us/44858796QB/item#dept=men&sts=sr_men80&cod10=44858796QB&sizeId=

    I bought a pair of the brown loafers you show in your post and they are regular calfskin. I also bought a pair of brogues and they are bookbinder and will be returned. Any of the absurdly shiny shoes like the ones I linked to above are, in all likelihood, bookbinder.
     
  9. thefastlife

    thefastlife Senior member

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    any thoughts on these for wear with chinos? are they ugly?

    also, side question: can Blake Construction be resoled?

    thanks.

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  10. Munky

    Munky Senior member

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    It depends on what colour chinos you are thinking about. If you mean the cream coloured ones and if the bottom pair of shoes is black, I don't think that they are a good match. Also, if the bottom pair have big square toes, they are not to everyone's taste! I don't know if Blake construction shoes can be repaired but I would think so. A visit to your local cobbler would soon answer this question. Best wishes, Munky
     
    1 person likes this.
  11. benhour

    benhour Senior member

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    Shoes that are made with blake construction method can be resoled (in fact they are the easier to be resoled) !! On the other questions you have made i think Munky have covered it up really well!
     
  12. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    I guess it depends on your point of view. Blake must be sewn from the inside of the shoe through to the outsole. Not only does this punch another set of holes in the insole, but all too often the thread can be felt underfoot.

    And it requires a specialized machine that not every shoe repair has access to. As a result, some repair shops simply cement a new sole right over the old one, but by that time and with the necessary roughing of the old outsole, the threads are often cut or damaged.

    So yes, the outsole can be replaced but, in my professional opinion, it is not as easy as welted work or even Blake-Rapid...and it is especially not as easy to do it correctly.

    FWIW...
     
  13. usctrojans31

    usctrojans31 Senior member

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    @DWFII correct me if I'm wrong, but wouldn't a lot of the shoemaker's access and competence be based off of market preferences? I'd imagine many more cobblers have the blake machine and technical competence/experience in Italy than say, the US.
     
    Last edited: Feb 25, 2016
  14. mr monty

    mr monty Senior member

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    Are they ugly? You don't know if you like the shoes or not?:uhoh:
     
  15. mr monty

    mr monty Senior member

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    Can you post pictures before you return the SM brogues?

    Thanks,
     
  16. saint

    saint Senior member

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    Of course:

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    Sorry for pics, didn't have time this morning to set them up nicely. The leather is thin and really plasticky, I've never been a fan of bookbinder, so back they'll go.
     
    2 people like this.
  17. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    You may be perfectly correct, I don't know.

    All I'm saying is that when a shoe (or any other item) is repaired, the idea is to return it, as close as possible, to its original state. Resoling Blake correctly is not a gimme and, IMO, not as easy as resoling welted or B-R.

    And even if the repairman has access to a Blake machine, that seam is more or less a blind seam--the horn of the machine is inside the shoe during repair, where it cannot be seen nor controlled in detail. So new holes are being made in the insole that, more often than not, do not correspond with the old ones. Not good.

    edited for punctuation and clarity
     
    Last edited: Feb 26, 2016
    1 person likes this.
  18. benhour

    benhour Senior member

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    I have answered according to the pairs he have posted!!

    Generally in most European countries (U.K aside ) is more common to see a Blake stitching machine than a G.W/blake -rapid machine in a cobblers shop ! Btw the cobbler witch the services i use said to me that for him is much easier to resole a blake stitched pair than a GW or a Blake-rapid ! (i have given to him to resole every kind of shoes and did really great job to all of them , btw he makes shoes too but dont hand welts them for cost reasons) !

    I think this is why he has to repair blake stitched shoes in a ratio 8/10 so he is very experienced in that kind of repair! In a pair i gave him to resole with blake stitching method he aligned the needle with the existing holes of the insole and set the stitch length according to the preexisting holes!(to be honest i suspect that most dont get to that trouble )

    Always happy to hear and learn from DWFII![​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 26, 2016
  19. Schweino

    Schweino Senior member

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    I think this is just the case for southern Europe @benhour. In the northwestern and central/eastern parts it's mostly GYW machines I've seen.
     
    1 person likes this.
  20. benhour

    benhour Senior member

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    I think mostly in northwestern (cause of the weather i can asume and tradition) the GYW are more common !! Gennerally i dont think he would have any problem to find a cobbler that can resole a blake stitched anywhere or use a GYW/blake-rapid machine to stitch a sole over the preexisting one!! (i think that is possible and DWfii can verify this as a very reputable shoemaker with a lot of experience )
     

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