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Shoe Damage Report & Appreciation Central - Part I

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Sator

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Originally Posted by zjpj83
Sator, these are wonderful, and I would like to buy some. With regard to sizing, I am a 7E on the JL 8000 last, and I tend to be a 7.5 wide in U.S. size. I have a slightly wider than average foot and a very high arch which makes lacing shoes tightly that don't fit properly painful. Thoughts? RMW 7G? Also, why would you choose either the calf or the 'roo - can you explain that choice? Edit: incidentally, my Canonbury's are 6.5EE and are a bit wide in the forefoot
Are you a 7.5E in AE shoes made on the Nr 5 last? I find Alden sizing to be very different. If so my standard recommendation would be 7F for a skintight fit in the RMW B529 last but 7G will probably still fit comfortably and if you have concerns with having a high arch, wider foot, it may be the safer option. The good new is that RMW lasts all have a fair bit of volume through the arch, so that I think they would be quite suitable for people with high arches, despite being wholecuts. Veal calf is just a much dressier looking leather and a higher grade than the other ones offered by RMW. It comes in chestnut or black. Brown shoe fans will find Chestnut quite an attractive dark colour, even if not quite to Parisian Museum Calf or EG Dark Oak standards. Pics on pg 1 of my main RMW post. There are pics of the roo leather accumulating on the last page of the RMW thread. My pair look really wrinkly. I think it makes the boot a lot more casual looking, although the chestnut roo looks more refined for some reason. Roos grow up in the wild so getting perfect skins without the usual skin imperfections that accumulate as they bounce around is hard. It is really stretchy so I would probably drop down a width to 7F.
 

mussel

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Originally Posted by EL72
Just got these and they are awesome. According to the Italian seller, these are samples for the upcoming S/S '07 season. The have a raised moc-toe look with no stitching (don't know what to call it) and light antiquing. The sole is a thing of beauty with the XXX embossed in stainless steel. I'll try to take better pics soon.

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EL, that's one good looking loafer, with cool soles to match. Do you know if this pair was made by Zefer or Mantellassi?
 

T4phage

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Originally Posted by Sator
...
The other thing is that they are wholecut Chelsea boots. Not even John Lobb's Chelsea RTW boots are made that way...

Scafora also makes wholecut RTW Chelsea boots, but with much nicer colourations and sole treatments.
 

Sator

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Originally Posted by T4phage
Scafora also makes wholecut RTW Chelsea boots, but with much nicer colourations and sole treatments.

JM Weston also make nice wholecut Chelseas. However, I now that I have gotten to know the RMW lasts better I think I can put together a custom order configuration on a Chelseas that beats the JM Westons for the elegance of the last any day.

Scafora? It depends on what you mean by "nicer". I have personally yet to see anything from Scafora that I have found anything better than mildly hideous. Then again I am usually allergic to Italian shoes.

However, I have yet to see a RTW wholecut Chelsea made with screwed brass leather soles.
 

T4phage

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Originally Posted by Sator
... Scafora? It depends on what you mean by "nicer". I have personally yet to see anything from Scafora that I have found anything better than mildly hideous. Then again I am usually allergic to Italian shoes.

However, I have yet to see a RTW wholecut Chelsea made with screwed brass leather soles.

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Differnt strokes.. I quite like his style and workmanship. And I like the English and French styles too!

One thing I would be worried about with the large, almost industrial looking screws on the sole: wouldn't be worried about scratching a wooden floor with it?
 

Sator

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Originally Posted by T4phage
smile.gif



One thing I would be worried about with the large, almost industrial looking screws on the sole: wouldn't be worried about scratching a wooden floor with it?


The are no more prominent or bulky than the nails found in many welted shoes. Nor do they protrude out any more than the nails in any other shoe.
 

Art Vandelay

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Originally Posted by EL72
Just got these and they are awesome. According to the Italian seller, these are samples for the upcoming S/S '07 season. The have a raised moc-toe look with no stitching (don't know what to call it) and light antiquing. The sole is a thing of beauty with the XXX embossed in stainless steel. I'll try to take better pics soon.

fotos018by9.jpg


Beautiful loafers, but they're just trying too hard with the soles almost to the point of being gaudy. It'd be an even better pair shoes if they tone down the soles a bit.
 

whomewhat

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Just purchased J.M. Weston Split Toe Double Sole Derbies, 598 Last, in Crocodile. The crocodile exotic is a little too much for my conservative style, but damn do they fit good! In fact, I think this is the first time in 30 years that my surgically altered feet (six times so far, and counting) have actually felt comfortable in dress shoes. And, as you can see, my little girl just loves the them!

 

jml90

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Originally Posted by mussel
EL, that's one good looking loafer, with cool soles to match. Do you know if this pair was made by Zefer or Mantellassi?
Looks like Mantellassi to me.
 

mussel

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Originally Posted by whomewhat
Just purchased J.M. Weston Split Toe Double Sole Derbies, 598 Last, in Crocodile. The crocodile exotic is a little too much for my conservative style, but damn do they fit good! In fact, I think this is the first time in 30 years that my surgically altered feet (six times so far, and counting) have actually felt comfortable in dress shoes. And, as you can see, my little girl just loves the them!

That's Weston's signature model, and you have that in crocodile, I love it
inlove.gif
. It must have cost a fortune.

Repost from centipede's website, G&G trunk show in Tokyo earlier this month:

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OMG, the alligator boots are absolutely sublime. I am afraid to ask how much are they.
 

Baron

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Anyone know what kind of skin that is in the second picture on that black three-eyelet derby next to the lizard one-eyelet?
 

bengal-stripe

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Looks to me (in that picture at least), like good, old (embossed) "˜country calf'.
But, I'm probably wrong and it's something incredibly exotic and prohibitively expensive.
 
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