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Shoe Damage Report & Porn Central - Part I

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by von Rothbart, May 12, 2006.

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  1. dokelroth

    dokelroth Senior member

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    Tetbury in Dark Brown Antique Nubuck [​IMG] Those are corrected grain, I'm afraid. [​IMG]
    Huh? What does that even mean? They look nice to me.
     
  2. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Huh? What does that even mean? They look nice to me.

    It means that the leather used is low qualilty, and is sanded and scraped smooth, bathed in chemicals, and then pressed through rollers to give the surface some consistency. This results in a plasticy looking finish.

    FWIW, I don't think those boots are corrected grain. At least, they don't look like it to me. For one thing, you can see the grain. For another, they are not shiney enough to be corrected grain.
     
  3. Baron

    Baron Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Tetbury in Dark Brown Antique Nubuck [​IMG]

    Those are corrected grain, I'm afraid. [​IMG]


    I don't think so. I think this has already been discussed in another thread, but I believe that it's something akin to the reverse calf you see in some Vass shoes.
     
  4. RIDER

    RIDER Senior member

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    They are not corrected grain.

    Of course, I have never heard of Antiqued Nubuck before either....and ever seen a smooth calf described that way. Different hemisphere, I guess.
     
  5. LabelKing

    LabelKing Senior member

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    I'm not sure nubuck can even be "antiqued" unless you have the tendency to spill drinks on your shoes.
     
  6. dokelroth

    dokelroth Senior member

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    They are not corrected grain.

    Of course, I have never heard of Antiqued Nubuck before either....and ever seen a smooth calf described that way. Different hemisphere, I guess.

    I don't get it. If they are not low quality, why did he basically say "your shoes suck!?" He seemed pretty sure about it, and from the pictures it looks like he has hundreds of shoes. Are you sure?
     
  7. NKT

    NKT Member

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    I have the same shoes, both in brown and black, and after many alcoholic drink-spills on the browns they've certainly developed a nice antique-ish look [​IMG]
     
  8. Artisan Fan

    Artisan Fan Senior member

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  9. Roikins

    Roikins Senior member

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    Nice shoes Roikins.

    How long they'll stay that way, I can't say. I ordered them when I realized I'd need some winter beaters for my recent move from the west coast to DC. [​IMG]

    As for being corrected or not, I couldn't say, unless there's something specific I should be looking for to find out. They're not terribly glossy looking in person, out of the box.
     
  10. Roikins

    Roikins Senior member

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    Found a few photos on the laptop that were hidden away of the Chapels that I got a few months ago, but no real porn shots since I was in a hurry to wear them [​IMG]

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    When my G&G MTOs come in, I'll be sure to take my time to get more shoe porn photos of those though.
     
  11. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    They are not corrected grain. Of course, I have never heard of Antiqued Nubuck before either.....
    In a way, "˜antique Nubuck' is corrected grain, just as is Nubuck, but not as we usually use the term.

    Nubuck is a leather, where the grain is sanded off, leaving a suede-type, matte surface. C&J's "˜antique Nubuck' has that matte leather coated with wax under pressure, to achieve a high shine (rather like pomade, all your hair strands get stuck together to produce a shining helmet of hair). It's essentially a copy of classic "˜waxed calf"˜, where the flesh side (usually matte) gets waxed and polished with a shoe bone, to achieve a shiny, mirror surface.

    Remember a season or two ago, all the fashionable Italian brands offered suede shoes with the tip of the shoe darker and shiny. Same principle, the suede gets waxed and the hairs stick together and take on a shiny look.
     
  12. sysdoc

    sysdoc Senior member

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    Thanks Bengal-Stripe.

    Why did I not say "these shoes suck"? ... Because I have the same pair. I had a major discussion with C&J officials at the factory about what they call "nubuck" and thought they were alright for bad weather.

    However, once I tried polishing them I had to learn that this "nubuck" does not react like normal grain leather. It reacts 100% like grain corrected leather. You apply polish to a layer of artificial material and not to the actual leather.

    FWIW Manton? A Machiavellian Approach to Shoes maybe?
     
  13. LabelKing

    LabelKing Senior member

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    In a way, "˜antique Nubuck' is corrected grain, just as is Nubuck, but not as we usually use the term.

    Nubuck is a leather, where the grain is sanded off, leaving a suede-type, matte surface. C&J's "˜antique Nubuck' has that matte leather coated with wax under pressure, to achieve a high shine (rather like pomade, all your hair strands get stuck together to produce a shining helmet of hair). It's essentially a copy of classic "˜waxed calf"˜, where the flesh side (usually matte) gets waxed and polished with a shoe bone, to achieve a shiny, mirror surface.

    Remember a season or two ago, all the fashionable Italian brands offered suede shoes with the tip of the shoe darker and shiny. Same principle, the suede gets waxed and the hairs stick together and take on a shiny look.


    Filthy habit, that.
     
  14. Roikins

    Roikins Senior member

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    Thanks Bengal-Stripe.

    Why did I not say "these shoes suck"? ... Because I have the same pair. I had a major discussion with C&J officials at the factory about what they call "nubuck" and thought they were alright for bad weather.

    However, once I tried polishing them I had to learn that this "nubuck" does not react like normal grain leather. It reacts 100% like grain corrected leather. You apply polish to a layer of artificial material and not to the actual leather.

    FWIW Manton? A Machiavellian Approach to Shoes maybe?



    That's interesting to know... any special considerations then when I decide to polish the shoes because of that waxy layer? I've worn it a few times for break-in, but I figured I'll polish it up when the weather starts getting bad around here.
     
  15. edmorel

    edmorel Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  16. chobochobo

    chobochobo Senior member Moderator

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    ^
    gorgeous sutor monks and suede nostros [​IMG]

    Who makes those boots?
     
  17. RIDER

    RIDER Senior member

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    No - not at all, sorry. Nubuck is buffed grain, not removed grain.

    Corrected grain is where the grain is removed (either completely or partially), a pigment coat applied, hair cell or other 'faux' grain techniques applied and then finished again....or again, and again and again.

    Any defects in the grain will be as readily apparent in Nubuck as they will in any analine finished top-grain calf. Also, very few of even the highest quality leathers available anymore do not have some sort of 'grain fixing' techniques applied. You might say that it is 'altered' calf, but not 'corrected'.

    I think this is just, as you point out, a variation of waxed calf. I'm even going to guess the tannery - Haas in France. Someone should ask next time in the shop...they might say. My point is, the purchaser should not feel like he bought some sort of 'defected' material, and this is exactly what the reply from Sysdoc sounded like - whether he thought so or not.
     
  18. chobochobo

    chobochobo Senior member Moderator

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    Thanks for the clarification. Shame I never got in on the Cordovan project.
     
  19. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    You might say that it is 'altered' calf, but not 'corrected'.
    Fine, so let's call it 'altered'.

    That's why I said its "in a way corrected....but not as we usually use the term",.....i.e. it is leather that has been interfered with; Nubuck is the product of technical manipulations, that 'corrects', 'alters', 'changes' (call it what you will) the natural look to the desired look.

    I still think, it's a way to give those old cows a bit of a face-lift.
     
  20. edmorel

    edmorel Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    gorgeous sutor monks and suede nostros [​IMG]

    Who makes those boots?


    Martegani
     
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