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shoe construction...behind the veil

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by DWFII, Jul 24, 2010.

  1. deez shoes

    deez shoes Well-Known Member

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    Thanks.

    I'm new to the quality footwear world but my fascination has grown from buying shoes to learning more about how they are made. There's just so much to learn regarding materials, construction methods, processes, and so on. I try to take it in a step at a time but for me it's almost therapeutic.
     
  2. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Off topic but interesting nevertheless is the fact that BS's photo shows quite clearly that the nails (screws?) in the toe plates...or some of them, at least... are directly in line with the inseam. :facepalm:
     
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2017
  3. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I did that dissection after midnight not only without the proper tools, but also having to do it without noise.

    I could't get an ordinary screwdriver between iron and sole to yank the toe plates off, nor would my craft knife have helped me to cut through.those screw nails. Presumably you would have to grind off the plate (at least partially), taking the nail heads with you. Then you could slip-off the plates, leaving the nails behind and pulling them out with pliers.

    As I said, I couldn't do that, so I cut through the leather sole, leaving the tip of the sole underneath the plate..
     
  4. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Actually, that's irrelevant as the plates outlived the soles or the shoes (whatever goes first) and were firmly connected right to the end.. And if the shoes had been repaired, the welt would have been replaced.
     
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2017
  5. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Yes, it's quite apparent if you know what you're looking at / for.

    Curious, however, did you clean out the cork with a square tipped screwdriver? This harkens back to the issue raised by @MoneyWellSpent back on page 110 which started this strand of the thread. (And the responses that were offered.)
     
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2017
  6. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Yes, I guess you're right...it's irrelevant in the same way that fused interfacing on a bespoke suit is irrelevant or particle board under an oak veneer is irrelevant.

    But the point is not that it's irrelevant (read disposable) but, like the whole issue of failed gemming, that it is possible at all. Which to hear some people tell it is impossible.
     
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2017
  7. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yes, I didn't have anything else. But I did not clean from the centre to the outside, but from the outside to the inside as not to rip-off the tape. Although I do maintain, the long end of the tape doesn't matter, it's the ridge that counts.
     
  8. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Yes, the ridge is all that counts...that's the "holdfast" --quasi-holdfast, in reality. But it is the rest of the tape...width and length that actually makes the holdfast "hold" onto the insole. It is the cement that is the "hold".
     
  9. Nick V.

    Nick V. Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yeah ha? How many decades have you survived so far in management?
    Do you consult with your team? The team that you rely on and that relys on you?
    I'm not in "different" industries I'm in the shoe industry. So, what do you do? Do you manage management? One of those unneeded deals?

    To me the best part is (I've said this before) working with my team. Sharing ideas, experiences, point of views, traditions. Challenging each other when appropriate/necessary. Also, a great thing is sharing ups and downs together. That's right, gains and failures. If you are good and observant on any management level you should understand this.

    Clearly, I can't do what my Guys do. I NEVER disputed that. On the other hand my Guys can't do what I do, they will tell you.

    The best part is we do it together. Cover each others backs. Live, breathe, sweat, and yes sometimes bleed together.....
    Add to that a really good manager will never, ever put themselves above those he is managing.

    These are not concepts that you are taught in college. They are not concepts that you just take a check for and go home at the end of the week. This is a passion. Something that you actually FEEL ready to fight and bleed for. If you get what I'm saying, withdraw your remark about you "seeing this mistake made several times". It does not apply to me.
    Who are you to make a bogus claim obviously implying my management skills and philosophies as deficient?

    Did I say, a good manager will never, EVER put themselves above those he manages. They have a MUTUAL yes MUTUAL RESPECT FOR EACH OTHER. That's why a good manager and his team have a strong bond together. No one's better than the other.....Live it, bleed for it then maybe you'll understand it. It has nothing to do with industries. It's a mentality. Probably something that you don't have the ability or heart to grasp.

    Good for you...........

    And, while we're on it. Who are you? Qualify yourself. Be more specific, what do you do for a living? I put myself out there. Now it's your turn....

    If you can't -or- are not willing to I just dismiss your comment as hollow and with no value or merit.

    I'll leave it to you and await your response, if you have the guts to............
     
  10. Nick V.

    Nick V. Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Okay, now it makes sense. Thank you for the explanation Sir.
     
  11. deez shoes

    deez shoes Well-Known Member

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    Nick V,

    I'm not sure where you are heading with your line of questioning and I don't particularly have any interest(or guts, I guess) to entertain either.

    However, I apologize if you felt offended by my post. I was simply agreeing with the observation of some managers labeling themselves as SMEs while ignoring input from those in the front-line getting their hands dirty. I'm not sure how I offended you by agreeing with this observation but I apologize.
     
    1 person likes this.
  12. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    You held up a mirror.

    Dinna fash, laddie.
     
  13. duncanbootmaker

    duncanbootmaker Well-Known Member

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    Getting back to the article on Stephane Jimenez, in the part about his Masterpiece for acceptance into the Compagnons guild, he mentions that he did everything, including all the stitching on the upper, by hand! I knew they had to be out there somewhere [​IMG] Now, if I can just find a good, large, pic of them...
     

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