shoe construction...behind the veil

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by DWFII, Jul 24, 2010.

  1. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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  2. emptym

    emptym Moderator Moderator

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    Thanks for a great discussion everyone.
     
  3. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    I thought your original observation was perceptive.
     
  4. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Albeit, incorrect. :)
     
  5. MoneyWellSpent

    MoneyWellSpent Senior member

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    Yeah, I agree with VRaivio that their company name leaves something to be desired. But, they do seem to have quality products based on the "Craft" section on their website, doing hand-welting. I also appreciated their pointing out the "hand-welted Goodyear" misnomer in describing their products, carefully explaining that their products are not Goodyear. I share that as a pet peeve.
     
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2015
  6. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    For some reason I thought your original remarks were about another pair.

    nvm



    I couldn't find the "Craft" section at first...I too liked the distinction.

    I also liked that they pointed out they were doing a shoemaker's stitch when handsewing the upper and not a lock-stitch (although if handsewing there would be no reason or advantage for doing a lock stitch).
     
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2015
  7. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Took me a while to ferret out some of this but these make for interesting reading...

    http://zonkeyboot.tumblr.com/post/18491070307/what-is-it-about-this-hand-welting

    http://zonkeyboot.tumblr.com/post/49091530175/zonkey-boot-on-hand-sewn-uppers

    Kind of got to admire the head guy. Reminds me of John Lobb's "We have turned our faces against the machine..."

    --
     
    Last edited: Sep 9, 2015
  8. ntempleman

    ntempleman Senior member

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    I never did understand that quote, there's plenty of machines at Lobb.
     
  9. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  10. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    I agree with you. First time I heard him say that I thought it was a bit of a stretch. I know Lobbs uses sewing machines, if nothing else. But the more I thought about it the more I suspected it was just shorthand for rejecting a "machine mentality" or a dependency on machines. And I feel some empathy for that POV. I don't think machines enhance our skills or our appreciation of quality...whether we be makers or consumers.

    A case can be made...if you want to get all philosophical about it...that western culture, consumer culture, literally worships at the feet of machines.
     
  11. Nick V.

    Nick V. Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    We work on them all the time. All machined. Unless he is talking about Bespoke, I don't know about that....
     
  12. emptym

    emptym Moderator Moderator

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    Yep, Lobb bespoke.
     
  13. sleepyinsanfran

    sleepyinsanfran Senior member

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    is there a term for the kind of heel-stack where the inner heel (medial side?) is slightly higher than the outer heel (lateral side?) ?
    (the kind of heel that can be used as a correction for overpronation and morton's toe/'greek foot', of varying degrees)
     
  14. ntempleman

    ntempleman Senior member

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    You can have a Thomas heel to provide additional support, but that doesn't generally angle the seat of the heel. You need to be extremely careful when you do that, because simply twisting the seat doesn't correct anything directly but forces you to change your gait. You get that wrong, and it doesn't take much of a change, and you'll throw your knees out of alignment. This is quite painful.
     
  15. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    That is a feature of forum favorite brand...
     

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