shoe construction...behind the veil

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by DWFII, Jul 24, 2010.

  1. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    I think I've seen that illustration or those lasts before...or something nearly identical. Historians and archeologists tell us that purpose-made, maker made shoes date back 10,000 years.
     


  2. striker

    striker Senior member

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    Is there such a thing as machine bentivegna welt? Are all braided norwegian welt handwelted or can these be done on a machine?
     


  3. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    @MoneyWellSpent asked in another thread to see an insole that had a footbed imprinted in it. I thought this might go down good--deconstructed, bespoke, handwelted, boot worn every day for about fifteen years, never had a full sole replacement, only half soles....

    As always click on photo for closer view.

    Boots when new--full wellingtons....

    [​IMG]

    Heel being taken off. No nails.

    [​IMG]

    Outsole removed...

    [​IMG]

    Shank cover removed...

    [​IMG]

    Shank removed...

    [​IMG]

    Insole filler/liner removed ...

    [​IMG]

    Welt removed and upper detached from insole ...

    [​IMG]

    Bare insole showing footbed and impression of toes,ball joints, etc.....

    [​IMG]


    Cross-section of boot showing heel stiffener and toe stiffener, liner etc....

    [​IMG]


    edited for punctuation and clarity
     
    Last edited: Jul 13, 2015


  4. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Worn every day for 15 years? Where the uppers in tact?
     


  5. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Except when lounging around on Sunday. Yes, the uppers were intact...badly cracked--it was a dry veg retan from Horween called Beaumont and seldom attended to :embar:, as they were work boots...but they might have had another year or more in them before the cracks gave way.
     


  6. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    15 years is remarkable though. I wonder how long it took them to develop the cracks in the first place.
     


  7. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    I dunno. Ten? Twelve? They always had leather dust, French Chalk, grindstone grit and so forth on them. I'd occasionally wipe them on the back of my pant legs and wash them about once every four or five months...or when the notion took me...and condition them at the same time....mostly with Lexol.
     


  8. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Oh, so they were yours! Are they the same beaters it looks like you wore in that video with the cute Danish woman?
     


  9. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Might very well be, I can't think of what other pair I would have been wearing.

    I think I might have cleaned them up when she first came in though...:lol:
     
    Last edited: Jul 13, 2015


  10. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Was that one of the tallow dipped insoles?
     


  11. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    No, I don't think so...in fact, it wasn't even a very good insole, relatively speaking. The shoemaker always gets the dregs, as who should say.

    I don't think I ever used the Beaumont again, either.

    It did block up nice though, despite being prone to tearing ...

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 13, 2015


  12. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

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    subbing because DWF threads are always fun and loads of knowledge. Also first page = holy wall of text batman!
     


  13. MoneyWellSpent

    MoneyWellSpent Senior member

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    Thanks so much for posting DW! [​IMG] That's exactly what I was hoping for... a very well worn hand-welted insole.

    How many irons was this particular one?

    Also, when you resoled these, did you just do a half sole, and leave the pegs in place, or have these been subject to pegging more than once?

    Lastly, did you ever condition them, or is this what they look like after continuous wear with no other treatment?

    Thanks again!
     


  14. MoneyWellSpent

    MoneyWellSpent Senior member

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    I'd be unfamiliar with a true bentivegna welt that wasn't hand done. Perhaps an outsole stitching machine could be used for the last stage, but the rest seems to require hand work.
     


  15. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    No problem.

    The insole was probably 10 irons. I generally try to shoot for 9-10 iron--that's what I order, as any rate.

    Always did a half sole. I don't ride and these were worn primarily on concrete floors (my shop) and sidewalks, etc.. Seldom in heavy rain or mud. The waist, heelseat and the heel stacks were never re-pegged.

    Oh, once in a while I'd shoot some Lexol down inside them but probably not more than three times in their life.
     


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