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shoe care supply checklist

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by aybojs, May 9, 2005.

  1. oscarthewild

    oscarthewild Senior member

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    Most excellent posting on shoe care.. Â May consider putting it on Francos website.
    thank you. Â Actually, the site is about ready to go thru a complete upgrade, and will include much more information on many topics... I have sold Lincoln for a long time, and like it a great deal - I have tried some samples of both Saphir and Medaille D'Or and I have decided to import both as well. Â The Saphir products are turpentine based, and have a different quality in regards to coverage...I do not currently offer any creams, but the Saphir stuff has changed my mind - much better than the creams from the Kiwi group. Â The Medaille D'Or seems equal to the Lincoln, but goes a long way; a little does alot.
    Would you know which of the avel products is rebranded by Weston? It is not a cream, comes in a tin. Also you praise cleaners, I have the lexol. It requires a wet cloth/sponge. Is this the same item you mention? Thanks -
     
  2. RIDER

    RIDER Senior member

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    Yes, it's Medaille D'Or.

    Yes again...Lexol is excellent - not a single toxic ingredient.
     
  3. Horace

    Horace Senior member

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    Kent doesn't make shoe brushes, do they?  I've checked through the catalog and even called them on the telephone -- they claim not to offer them -- perhaps they "make them" for others?

    Edit: just read Rider's article -- and I think it excellent. I use the cleaner from Meltonan and usually use this often neglected step, as Rider characterizes it, every 3 or 4 polishes. I also think Rider's comments on finding a good (& usually old cobbler) to be very astute.

    quick question about Allen Edmonds edge dressing: can this edge dressing stain (or damage) the uppers? I've always just used shoe cream for edge of the soles -- but if the edge dressing is specially designed for the edges, perhaps it's better to switch??
     
  4. RIDER

    RIDER Senior member

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    Actually, I should have mentioned this...I have never had much luck, or durability, with the cream type 'edge dressings'. I really can't tell if they are re-labeled creams or what, but what I was refering to is spirit based dye, which is used to dye uppers and we use it at the shop to ink sole edges. Obviously, if you are not very careful, any mis-step will tarnish the upper. At one point, I used to put large amounts of this in old mayo jars as it's easier to dip the daubers into a large opening, and we had a new guy start and he went back to my bench to polish his shoes and, sure enough, he coats his shoes with this 'liquid polish'...made a real mess of himself as well. Anyway, the dye works much better.
     
  5. Alter

    Alter Senior member

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    I am resurrecting this old thread because of the great article by RIDER on page one about shoe care. Some of the newer members may have missed it.

    I unearthed the thread by searching for "Fiebings" as I just bought some Fiebings shoe dye to use on an old belt and also as edge dressing. The Fiebing shoes dye works great as edge dressing and comes in a wider variety of colours beyond the usual generic brown and black.
     
  6. SomeGuy

    SomeGuy Member

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    Thanks! and bookmarked.


    ...and due to me forgetting that I was searching for something, I also have resurrected this thread! Go me [​IMG]
     
  7. acidboy

    acidboy Senior member

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    gentlemen,

    the subject of saddle soap being discouraged was brought up somewhere around here. may i know why this is so?
     
  8. kitonbrioni

    kitonbrioni Senior member

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    The caustic chemicals in saddle soap aren't good for leather.
    I would add to the list Lexol leather products.
     
  9. acidboy

    acidboy Senior member

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    The caustic chemicals in saddle soap aren't good for leather.
    I would add to the list Lexol leather products.


    thank you very much.
     
  10. Memphis

    Memphis Senior member

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    Lexol like the stuff used for automotive leather? I think I read somewhere on the label not to use it on fine leathers. I love the stuff for use on my R32 interior but never though of using it for shoes. Do you use the cleaner and also the protector or just one or the other? Also would this be recomended for leather jackets?
     
  11. retronotmetro

    retronotmetro Senior member

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    Lexol like the stuff used for automotive leather? I think I read somewhere on the label not to use it on fine leathers. I love the stuff for use on my R32 interior but never though of using it for shoes. Do you use the cleaner and also the protector or just one or the other? Also would this be recomended for leather jackets?

    I don't believe there is anything on the label about not using it on "fine leathers." I use Lexol protectant on all of my leather shoes. The only things to look out for are (1) the protectant can sometimes darken lighter leathers, and (2) the cleaner can remove some color and/or patination, especially if you use a lot of the cleaner or scrub vigorously.
     
  12. jml90

    jml90 Senior member

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    I don't believe there is anything on the label about not using it on "fine leathers." I use Lexol protectant on all of my leather shoes. The only things to look out for are (1) the protectant can sometimes darken lighter leathers, and (2) the cleaner can remove some color and/or patination, especially if you use a lot of the cleaner or scrub vigorously.
    It also tastes bad. I will say no more.
     
  13. Memphis

    Memphis Senior member

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    I used it on my leather jacket and man did it make a huge difference. I first used the cleaner and got all the dirt out of the leather then did the conditioner. Its so soft now [​IMG]
     
  14. Artisan Fan

    Artisan Fan Senior member

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    LOL!!!

    Imagine the story behind this quote.
     
  15. jml90

    jml90 Senior member

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    LOL!!!

    Imagine the story behind this quote.

    Which one?
     
  16. Bob01

    Bob01 Senior member

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    Here is a little bit on shoe care that I did for Steve's newsletter...

    Alright then, after spending many weeks delving into the minute details of shoe construction, memorizing the entire history of the worldwide tanning industry, obtaining and studying the last and pattern archives of 47 footwear manufacturers from 5 different countries, you have finally decided on THE perfect pair of dress shoes. Dress shoes that not only speak to you, but announce to the entire world that you have arrived; and arrived with panache, for no one could see the graceful lines and gleaming calfskin and not understand that they are in the presence of a man of dignity and taste. Unfortunately, as is often the case, on the appointed day that the imaginary Barker in your head was primed to perform said announcement, Mother Nature decided to moisten the proceedings. Suddenly, your sodden leather perfection quickly deviated from panache to pancake, the graceful lines somehow remembered that exposed joint your Grandmother so thoughtfully left you, and the gleaming calfskin decided that it would rather, well, gleam another day. Despite the days' disappointment, however, all is not lost.

    Shoes are meant to be worn (and worn means in all sorts of conditions) and this requires an additional, minor expense, and equally minor effort, to ensure that your investment in a high quality shoe is a long-term one rather than a short-term one.

    Wooden shoe trees are mandatory for the proper care of a calfskin dress shoe. Actually, despite the analogy above, when a shoe deteriorates, it does so from the inside out. Leather linings are vegetable tanned (meaning they are processed using, among other things, natural extracts that allow the leather to be soft and pliable) and therefore are much more prone to rotting as they do not have the "˜protection' of the harsher chemicals (Chromium salts, dyes, etc.) that are used in the tanning and finishing of upper leather. Also, most people perspire a great deal from their feet, and the linings and insoles are able to absorb this perspiration. The main benefit of a WOODEN shoe tree is the quick absorption away from the linings and insoles of this moisture under tension. Without a wooden shoe tree, the linings (and therefore the uppers) would loose this moisture slowly, and contract when the moisture leaves. The shrinking/expanding process that occurs without the use of shoe trees cause the linings to deteriorate much more quickly than they otherwise should. The most popular wood used in the manufacture of shoe trees in the US is Cedar (which is light, absorbs very well and deodorizes) while Birch is most often seen in Europe, as Cedar is not native there. Both work equally well, in my opinion, while metal and plastic are to be avoided, as neither absorbs very well. As for design, a split front (the tension is side-to-side) with a full heel and handle is very versatile, but many options are available.

    http://www.woodlore.com/
    http://www.rstco.com/
    http://www.dunkelman.com/


    True shoe aficionados can argue for hours over whether wax or cream is the most effective polish for their prized footwear. Both are effective, and the use of one or the other is certainly necessary for the proper upkeep of your shoes.

    Paste (Wax) Polish

    Finding the "˜recipe' that manufacturers use for their paste, or wax, polish is as difficult as prying a BBQ sauce recipe from a Texan - can't seem to be done. Nevertheless, in examining the Material Handling Safety Datasheets that the government requires of these concoctions, it appears that the overwhelming ingredient is Stoddard Solvent (Naphtha) which, in the case of Kiwi (division of Sara Lee) and Kelly's (Fiebings, Inc. in Milwaukee) exceeds 90%. The two other popular shoe polish brands here, Lincoln and Angelus, do not make their MSDS as readily available, so I cannot speak to their main ingredient, but both seem to contain more pigment/waxes than the more popular Kiwi*. A notable exception is the Avel wax polishes (Saphir and Medaille D'Or) which both use a turpentine (natural) base. All use some combination of Carnauba and Beeswax as a binder.

    Despite this information, which would seem to counter-act the marketing messages of these products, all are useful in the general upkeep of the finish of fine dress shoes. A personal observation is that Lincoln and the Avel polishes are the most effective in regards to coverage, protection and filling/fixing minor scuffs and cuts.

    http://www.herc.org/library/msds/shoepolish.htm
    http://www.avel.es/ang/ingles/index4.html
    http://www.lincolnshoepolish.com/
    http://www.fiebing.com/product.asp?typeID=11



    Cream Polish


    Available in a huge variety of colors, Cream Polish is very similar to the harder wax polishes with the main difference being some subtraction of solvent and a corresponding addition of mineral oil, or similar ingredient. While equal in it's ability to impart color, the cream polishes generally do not have the same ability to cover the inevitable scuffs and cuts that a leather shoe is prone to experience. In addition to the above manufacturers, others of note are Urad (Italy), Colonnil (Germany) and Smart (Turkey).

    http://www.urad.it/english/01pomata.htm


    Conditioner/Cleaners

    The most under-used products in the shoe care market might very well be the neutral, more natural "˜cleaner & conditioner' products. In my opinion, the continual use of these products on a weekly (or more often) basis is far more important to the overall "˜health' of a fine leather upper than even the regular use of colored waxes and creams. Easy to apply, these products all go a long way in keeping leather supple, protected and, in the case of the brown tones, help to bring out that all important "˜patina' that can only develop naturally thru time and attention. Containing little or no harmful chemicals, any of the following are worth investing in: Allen Edmonds Conditioner/Cleaner, Crema Alpina (Italy), Renovateur by Avel (Spain/France) and Lexol (USA).

    http://www.lexol.com/
    http://www.nubian1880.it/english/homepage.html


    The Process

    Your shoes should be polished and/or conditioned at least a couple times a month...each week, ideally. Even if you don't do this yourself, drop a pair off at your local shoe repair shop or stop by a shine stand as often as possible. You can even purchase a set-up and give it to your favorite cobbler/bootblack and ask that they use these products to care for your shoes. If you choose to polish/clean/condition your shoes yourself, start by applying a liberal amount of one of the conditioner/cleaners mentioned above. Allow a few minutes and promptly rub briskly with a cotton or felt rag. The shoe bags that often come in the box with "˜better' shoes are ideal for this...simply cut into large strips for your polishing use. Next, apply the appropriate shoe cream to areas that are showing the most wear. It is not necessary for the colors to match exactly (except for black, obviously), but to either blend in, or to highlight at your choosing. For example, a "˜cognac' colored shoe might see "˜tan', "˜mahogany', "˜light brown' or "˜mid-brown' polishes; or maybe all four. Experiment. After the cream hazes over, apply another coat of cleaner/conditioner and let sit for a few minutes. Take a high quality horsehair brush (the best are from Frank-Brushes, in Germany) and brush along the sides and across the vamp (top to the tip). Next, apply your choice of wax/paste polish and, again, allow to haze over. After 5 minutes or so, brush off as before. Finally, re-apply one more coat off cleaner/conditioner, allow to dry for a minute or two, and brush again. You can stop now, or continue to a "˜spit-shine' step, which really just involves taking and old necktie (or nylon hose), misting a little water onto your shoe, and rapidly buffing with the silk rag. The heat from the quick motion combined with a little water will "˜build' another protective layer onto your shoe. A final step, though one I do not really recommend for most, is to use a "˜edge dye' (we simply use leather dye from Fiebings) to dye the sole/welt edge and trim. This is tricky, and it is easy to ruin an upper if you do not do this carefully with the included dauber, so I would leave this to the cobbler, but the leather dye is readily available from Fiebings.

    Find a Cobbler

    Which brings me to my final suggestion in regards to proper care of your shoes...make friends with your local cobbler. If you do not use one regularly, ask around. Every town has at least one guy who has been around for awhile, and knows how to re-build good shoes. Really, what qualifies as a good shoe now, was a pretty average shoe not too long ago, so if someone has been around for a good while, chances are you will not give them anything they have not seen before. And the better the shoe they see, the better the work they will want to do. Trust me, most everything now is cardboard and paper...the older guys don't get to work on the good stuff much any longer. And when you find the best one in your area, tell him you will pay for his best work, not just what's on his price list. Make sure you see a group of machines (and I mean ones that have seen years of use) and lots of scraps lying around...I have yet to meet a good cobbler who had a spotless shop. Ask him how old his MacKay is...ask him who works on it (nobody does anymore, they have to do it themselves)...ask him how he builds up heel bases (next to impossible to buy ready-made anymore)...ask him where his outsoles are sourced from (the last US source for really good outsoles, WestTan, just closed up; the German stuff is the best, at the very least make sure they are not cream colored - they are cheap, should be dark tan or darker). If the guy is worth his salt, he will entertain your questions, and will give you a top notch job. Find him and patronize his shop.


    I hope this will serve as a good "˜primer' on shoe care...if anyone would like to know more, or has a specific question, please feel free to e-mail me at:

    Ron(at)francos(dot)com

    I would be happy to reply.

    Ron Rider
    Franco's Fine Clothier
    Men's Shoes
    www.francos.com


    Thanks Rider for this awesome post! Hopefully soon when I start off with some Allen Edmonds I won't destroy them after the first year ;-)
     
    3 people like this.
  17. ziggyosk

    ziggyosk Senior member

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    I am new to polishing shoes and this is the process I have been following. Tell me if this is right:

    1. clean off shoes w/ damp cloth. wait to dry
    2. apply polish w/cloth.
    3. brush off polish
    4. buff w/cloth

    sound right?
     
  18. the.chikor

    the.chikor Senior member

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    I like Saphir shoe polish for my first choice-mainly b/c it doesn't seem to build or cake up on the shoe-which then cracks or flakes off when you walk, not to mention it is a pain in the rear end to re-shine the shoes. This doesn't seem to be problem if you are only brush shining the shoes. Saphir shines well too. Fiebing's all purpose cleaner and conditoner works very well for keeping leather moist and preventing cracking, IMO. Most of the conditioners that I have tried seem to be pretty much the same stuff, so if you find one you like or that is readily accessible, then stick with it. Polish and condition your shoes at least once a week, presuming that you wear them during the week. At the end of each day, usually the shoes just require a brush to touch them up.
     
  19. GeorgePaul

    GeorgePaul Senior member

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    I am new to polishing shoes and this is the process I have been following. Tell me if this is right:

    1. clean off shoes w/ damp cloth. wait to dry
    2. apply polish w/cloth.
    3. brush off polish
    4. buff w/cloth

    sound right?

    Yes, that's OK. but add:

    5. Apply edge dressing
     
  20. ziggyosk

    ziggyosk Senior member

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    Yes, that's OK. but add:

    5. Apply edge dressing



    ok, is there a thread that describes how to do that exactly?


    Also a few questions for everybody about polishing rags:

    1. What do you guys use as rags to polish your shoes?
    2. Do you use the same rags multiple times, like to apply polish, or do you throw them out and use a new one every time?
    3. What kind of rags do you use to buff
     

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