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Shoe Appreciation:  My new Lobbs

AlanC

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Lobb is the quintessential English bespoke shoe (they only do bespoke). It's what Prince Charles et al wear. Lobb shoes are "anti-designer" shoes. It's what you wear in the City of London at a bank, not necessarily what you wear on the Left Bank. That said, they make just as strong a statement as Corthay, Berluti or Weston, just a very, very different sort of statement.
 

Fabienne

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OK, thanks. I was just confused by all the praise on the forum. I would hesitate before using the term "beautiful". Tradition, yes. And that amounts for something.

In looking around, I found this:

La rÃ
00a9.png
00a9.png
rence JOHN LOBB. FabriquÃ
00a9.png
e en Angleterre, la collection de prêt-à-porter John Lobb comble les hommes pressÃ
00a9.png
s, amoureux de la maison.

It's a quote from "Monsieur". Quick and unpolished translation by me: Manufactured in England, the ready-to-wear John Lobb collection fulfills the needs of men in a hurry who nonetheless love the firm.

Is this dated?
 

RJman

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Oh boy.

In 1971-72 Hermes bought the John Lobb bespoke shop in Paris and the right to use the name John Lobb for a line of ready-to-wear shoes made in England. The John Lobb of St. James' is not related to these shoes. Confusingly, John Lobb (Paris) also now makes bespoke shoes in workshops on Fbg St-Antoine. It also has a shop on Jermyn Street in London.

Magazines generally get the two very confused. Kai's shoes are by John Lobb (St. James).
 

Greenhundred

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Lobb ready to wear are available from their Jermyn St premises, bespoke are ordered from their St James's St premises.

My Lobb were obtained ready to wear from Jermyn St.,
 

bengal-stripe

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Lobb ready to wear are available from their Jermyn St premises
Greenhundred, they are two totally separate companies: John Lobb (London) and John Lobb (Paris). John Lobb (London) in St. James's Street does bespoke shoes and nothing else. http://www.johnlobbltd.co.uk/ John Lobb (Paris) owned by Hermes has a workshop in Paris for bespoke shoes http://cobblers.hp.infoseek.co.jp/count004_01.htm and a factory in Northampton/England for ready to wear shoes. They also have a number of retail premises around the world (one of them in Jermyn Street). Of course sharing the same name adds to the confusion. Your ready-to-wear shoes come from JL (Paris), only the Paris firm has the rights to produce ready-to-wear bearing the name JL. Kai's bespoke shoes come from JL (London). But Kai could have ordered his bespoke shoes from JL (Paris). They would have produced a different pair of shoes. Ultimately it comes down to personal preference, as both firms produce a world-class product.
 

naturlaut

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John Lobb (London) in St. James's Street does bespoke shoes and nothing else. http://www.johnlobbltd.co.uk/ Kai's bespoke shoes come from JL (London). But Kai could have ordered his bespoke shoes from JL (Paris). They would have produced a different pair of shoes. Ultimately it comes down to personal preference, as both firms produce a world-class product.
Of course, Lobb (London) does more than just shoes --- they also do bespoke gentleman's purses and other small leather goods. Â You can have them make a wallet measured to the width and depth of your suit pocket, select the leather, and dictate how many compartments you need inside. Â In modern days, where consumers are much better informed and educated, and choices are abundance, I think one chooses Lobb (London) more for its prestige. Â That is not to say that their craftsmanship is second class --- not at all --- but the lack of fitting sessions is certainly discouraging to some. Â For about the same price, Lobb (Paris) provides at least one fitting and a slightly quicker delivery time, and the transparency of the whole process, at least to me, makes it a better choice among the two. Â I am a firm believer of fittings in any bespoke ventures, but the prestige of Lobb (London) is hard to beat too, knowing that your lasts will be placed next to Astaire and the Queen.
 

RJman

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Well, Lobb Paris is actually somewhat more expensive (maybe up to $1000 more)...

Lobb St James will make those small leather items but god damn will they cost you. The price list on their site, particularly for the smaller items, puts the fear of G-d in me. Am I reading correctly and are they selling bespoke bath slippers for over $1000?

You could probably have small leather goods made up for less at a firm specializing in those items like Swaine Adeney or Tanner Krolle if you want bespoke, or any number of makers if RTW is ok. Cleverleys also quoted me a fair price for a bespoke belt.

Lobb Paris started to sell ready-made belts and wallets a few years ago. The prices were around those of their parent company Hermes ($300-$400), with much heavier, more sober styling. I am not sure if those are still sold though.
 

A Harris

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I was just confused by all the praise on the forum. I would hesitate before using the term "beautiful". Tradition, yes. And that amounts for something.
Keep in mind that, like most bespoke shoes, the shape of Kai's shoes follows the shape of his foot. He doesn't have a long, slim foot, so they did not make him long, slim shoes.. For a better idea of the "house style" peruse the galleries here: http://www.johnlobbltd.co.uk/main/main.htm
 

Fabienne

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Oh, I couldn't help but laugh when I saw the "Slippers" image appear. So I avoided it altogether and went to "Shoes". Lord, why did I have to click on "Ladies shoes". Nightmares are going to pursue me tonight, no doubt. With "Men's shoes", yes, I saw a few more objects of interest, here and there. But it is singularly exhausting to look at those. Thank you. Thank you. I think I understand better.
 

A Harris

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Lord, why did I have to click on "Ladies shoes". Nightmares are going to pursue me tonight, no doubt.
C'mon Fabienne, you know you want to order a few pair...
biggrin.gif
 

jcusey

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C'mon Fabienne, you know you want to order a few pair...
Along with a few pairs of the most expensive shoe trees known to man.
biggrin.gif
 

Horace

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(jcusey @ 30 Dec. 2004, 6:33)
Originally Posted by AlanC,30 Dec. 2004, 7:29
It's interesting to see the carved out shoe tree that you mentioned. I wonder what the purpose is.
It's just to make the tree a bit lighter, no other reason than that. The material in the center of the tree doesn't add anything but weight. And those are gorgeous trees, by the way. I don't know if they're worth the £366 that they cost, but they're beautiful nonetheless. Are the shoes really that light in color, or is the camera just playing tricks?
The shoes are a tiny bit darker than the pictures show. Â The flash bulb tends to lighten things up a bit. Â They are not a very dark brown, however. Â I would describe them as a dark carmel color. Â As for how they compare with my Vass bespokes, I must say that my non-expert eye can't really tell the difference in terms of quality. Â Both the Vass and Lobb shoes are clearly works of art crafted by artisans. Â I think that the Vass shoes compare well with the Lobbs, which makes the Vass offerings an amazing bargain. Â As for my initials on the shoes; It wasn't ever brought up. Â I didn't have any idea that it was even an option.
Kai -- I always thought it was an option, or even standard. Many pairs that less frugal relatives have indulged have the name plates. Maybe they added them after the fact. I think the idea was/is to make sure that if you send out your shoes to the valet or floor butler at a hotel, you want your pair back. I don't know. I'll ask and get back to you. H
 

Horace

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I am no expert, but I do not think that the word "designer" applies very well the the firm of John Lobb.
hear hear.
 

Horace

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(bengal-stripe @ 04 Jan. 2005, 7:02) John Lobb (London) in St. James's Street does bespoke shoes and nothing else. http://www.johnlobbltd.co.uk/ Kai's bespoke shoes come from JL (London). But Kai could have ordered his bespoke shoes from JL (Paris). They would have produced a different pair of shoes. Ultimately it comes down to personal preference, as both firms produce a world-class product.
Of course, Lobb (London) does more than just shoes --- they also do bespoke gentleman's purses and other small leather goods. Â You can have them make a wallet measured to the width and depth of your suit pocket, select the leather, and dictate how many compartments you need inside. Â In modern days, where consumers are much better informed and educated, and choices are abundance, I think one chooses Lobb (London) more for its prestige. Â That is not to say that their craftsmanship is second class --- not at all --- but the lack of fitting sessions is certainly discouraging to some. Â For about the same price, Lobb (Paris) provides at least one fitting and a slightly quicker delivery time, and the transparency of the whole process, at least to me, makes it a better choice among the two. Â I am a firm believer of fittings in any bespoke ventures, but the prestige of Lobb (London) is hard to beat too, knowing that your lasts will be placed next to Astaire and the Queen.
Just to add to discussion, I recall that Marc Greyson wrote a fairly detailed report on his experiences on Lobb London and Paris bespoke. I don't recall if it were posted here or on Andy.
 

marc37

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Well, Lobb Paris is actually somewhat more expensive (maybe up to $1000 more)...
Don't forget Raj-man that that price includes custom shoe trees [where as the Lobb (London) price doesn't]. This would mean that the Lobb (Paris) price would only be slightly more expensive.

Horace: Marc Grayson spoke about his Lobb (London) V's Lobb (Paris) experience only last week. Unfortunately, Malinda deleted his posts after only 30 minutes of posting. Did anyone else see it. lt was quite detailed. Damn, l should have saved it.
 

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