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Shoe Antiquing

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by RIDER, Oct 1, 2007.

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  1. macklondon

    macklondon Member

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    Oct 13, 2011
    Does anyone know where i can fined Fiebings in Australia (Brisbane)? Or a similar set of materials? Seems to be some customs issues importing the Fiebings stuff.
     
  2. chogall

    chogall Well-Known Member

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    Why not pay your local cobbler a visit; cobblers usually carry an array of leather dyes and at the very least would have the knowledge to get leather dyes.
     
  3. macklondon

    macklondon Member

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    We used to have a great guy but he has gone out of business. They have a key cutting guy at the mall who will re-glue the cheap shoes they sell at the mall. Everyone buys plastic shoes these days here.

    I might have to go out to the burbs to find a place.

    EDIT: found an SF thread about cobblers in my town. Might go see if it still exists :)
     
    Last edited: Nov 19, 2012
  4. inimitable

    inimitable Well-Known Member

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    I'm attempting to deglaze a pair of black calf shoes with the intention of applying some navy dye.

    Applied several coats of Angelus deglazer but not much colour is coming off, they just appear to be matte. What am I doing wrong?
     
  5. chogall

    chogall Well-Known Member

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    maybe you've only scratched the surface only and took out the wax and part of the finishing. it takes a lot of deglazer or acetone to get rid of any colors.
     
  6. inimitable

    inimitable Well-Known Member

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    Thanks. I just found the following post in another thread. I'll give the bleach a go tomorrow.


     
    1 person likes this.
  7. chogall

    chogall Well-Known Member

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    Make sure you condition the shoes after they dry from bleach. Many times. Before you attempt to color and apply finish.
     
  8. inimitable

    inimitable Well-Known Member

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    Will renovateur be suitable for conditioning?
     
  9. chogall

    chogall Well-Known Member

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    renovateur is the expensive option. i just use lexol. no reason to use saphir stuff when EG themselves are using kiwi.

    many times, after bleach breaks down the very top layer of finish/wax, everything comes off very easily even without additional bleach. i found myself using lexol to get rid of excess wax/finish after bleach.

    and from my humble experience, nothing gets rid of wax buildup like bleach. even after a lot of neutral wax, saddle soap, and lincoln deglazer/dry cleaner, wax buildup still shoes after a pass of bleach.

    btw, how's the results?
     
    Last edited: Dec 23, 2012
  10. mdapht01

    mdapht01 Active Member

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    Nov 26, 2012
    Results of my first antiquing adventure, following Ron's directions as best as I could.

    Had a light beige pair of Bally Scribes. They had some scuffs that were very noticeable because of the light color.

    Figured I'd make them darker. Look quite nice. They are not spit-shined just let, but I like their matte finish and may keep them that way for now.

    The first picture is the BEFORE shot, with the horrible smudge.

    About 6 hours of solid work went into this resurrection process. But I feel quite good now. In sunlight the luster may show better than in the current pictures. But outside is dull snowstormy day. So these will have to do.

    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  11. mdapht01

    mdapht01 Active Member

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    Nov 26, 2012
    Finally got a chance to take some pictures in the sun.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  12. FreCarl

    FreCarl New Member

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    Jan 3, 2013
    Tried this for the first time today...

    Used Saphir 1925 and Pate de Luxe in different colours. I might think that the contrasts are i little bit too sharp. But this will fade with wearing.


    Start
    [​IMG]

    Finished
    [​IMG]
     
  13. PointDexter2014

    PointDexter2014 Well-Known Member

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    May 4, 2013
    I am going to attempt to antique a similar pair of shoes. But I am going to this pair on this site http://www.marcguyot.com/4en.aspx?sr=2. I will post photos of my progress once I start the process.





    [​IMG]




    [​IMG]
     
  14. PointDexter2014

    PointDexter2014 Well-Known Member

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  15. slifox

    slifox Member

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    Jun 30, 2013
    I decided to experiment with dyeing for antiquing, since I wasn't getting satisfactory results with polish antiquing alone.

    These boots have undergone a lot of modifications, including many different colors of polish, polish techniques (including drill buffing and flame polishing), re-insoling (I ripped out the sewed-in insole to replace with a heat-moldable insole), etc. I didn't particularly care what happened to them -- but if they turned out well, I'd still wear them.

    Here's my procedure:
    1. Strip completely with deglazer and a cotton cloth, rotating the cloth constantly. I used Fiebing's deglazer at first, but quickly ran out. I checked the MSDS on it and found it was mostly ethyl acetate (a common volatile industrial solvent). I was able to buy 95% ethyl acetate from amazon for cheaper than deglazer, and dilute it to the 50-85% needed to deglaze leather.
    2. Apply base coat of light brown Fiebing's dye with badger hair paint brush
    3. Allow dye to dry, then apply Lexol leather conditioner liberally
    4. Remove as much dye as possible by rubbing hard with a cotton cloth, basically removing all the dye that wasn't fully soaked in.
    5. Repeat steps #2-4 many times. I did this 8-10 times using varying color mixtures of light brown and dark brown, working my way up to the pure dark brown. Apply more coats on the areas that should be antiqued (toe, heel, lower vamp parts, upper's stitching).
    6. Apply black to the antiqued areas; condition; rub off. This was a mistake -- the black was starkly different, and I had to blur the edge between the black and dark brown using some light deglazer rubbing. This actually worked really well at blending the antiquing areas, but I had to go back and reapply more dark brown coats to cover excess areas that the deglazer stripped.
    7. Finally, after all the antiquing was done, another coat of dark brown dye across the whole shoe; condition; rub off.
    8. Polish with creme, then wax.

    Equipment:
    [​IMG]

    Before stripping -- showing remenants of a hasty polish antiquing job:
    [​IMG]

    Stripped:
    [​IMG]

    First coat of dye applied, conditioned, and rubbed off:
    [​IMG]

    Several coats:
    [​IMG]

    More coats:
    [​IMG]

    Final coat finished, including the blended black around the antiquing areas (toe, heel, lower vamp, upper's stitching):
    [​IMG]

    Finished and polished:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  16. chogall

    chogall Well-Known Member

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    Looking much better than polish antiquing. Personally I would stop at the first coat.
     
    1 person likes this.
  17. inimitable

    inimitable Well-Known Member

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    I'm struggling to remove much of the original black colour from the shoes. They just appear 'matte'

    Any ideas?
     
  18. chogall

    chogall Well-Known Member

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    If you don't care much about the shoes and really want to try, household bleach. Straight up.

    Just remember to use water to wipe it clean as the bleaching effect will last for a while.
     
  19. inimitable

    inimitable Well-Known Member

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    Oh yeah, forgot to mention that I tried bleach also. Couple of snaps below. Both shoes have been deglazed and the right one has been bleached, with particular attention to the toe.

    It just seems awfully difficult to get anywhere. Maybe I just need to give it another go.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  20. chogall

    chogall Well-Known Member

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    Bleach worked well. It won't get rid of colors completely especially the dyes that sits deep within the leather. That's about as good as mine experience. Maybe someone knows how to extract all colors but I doubt it's possible.
     
    Last edited: Jul 2, 2013

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