Shoe (and other somewhat related) inquiries

[upncomer]

Hey SF,

I'm a young law student soon to embark upon the journey that is the real world -- working in a large NYC law firm. Looking to begin building my wardrobe in earnest, I had a couple of questions for the more seasoned veterans around these parts:

(1) I'm looking to purchase a pair of brown dress shoes. I used to go with Johnston and Murphy (mostly because it was all I knew) when in high school and college, but now I figure it is time to upgrade to a better quality shoe. My style is very conservative -- tradition two-button suits, not too slim, pleated pants and such. Do captoe lace-ups make the most sense or should I look at something else? And what brands or stores should I check out first. I'll be in NYC all next week and willing to spend ~$400.

(2) As I stated above, I usually wear traditional-cut two-button suits. But I wouldn't mind a slimmer and more contemporary cut suit. Because I'm tall and skinny, I tend to skip off the rack. But I'm also broke (for now). What brand/cut/designer should I look for if I'm going to venture out and buy my first slim-cut suit? Where do I look? I'd be looking to pay < $600 or so.

(3) For interviews and first-impressions, I know the rules regarding a navy or dark grey suit. Thankfully, I've been able to get a couple of tailored shirts from BB and CEGO in the last year or so. But what tie should I go with -- I love this red and blue stripped tie I picked up from J. Press but I'm afraid the red is too bold (on a white shirt, navy suit, white pocket square). What say you all -- go with it? Stick with something more muted? Would you say the same about a lavendar Ralph Lauren paisley on a white or white and grey stripped shirt for a medium grey suit?

Thanks a bunch in advance. I'm still new to the game and I'm definitely willing to consider all advice proffered!

 

[DocHolliday]

For $400 or less, you might check out shoes from Allen-Edmonds or Alden. AEs retail for $310 or so, but can be found on sale fairly frequently. Aldens are slightly pricier, and are harder to find on discount. But both represent a big step up from J&M.

If you want something a bit less conservative, you should check out the Marteganis at Francos.com. The U.S. rep for Martegani, Ron Rider, is a poster here, and he can help you with sizing and such. They offer both traditional styles and some flashier models.

For suits, you might consider Corneliani. They're not exactly "slim," but they do flatter the tall and thin, in my experience. They retail for much more than your budget, but can often be had on deep discount at Sierra Trading Post and bricks-and-mortar shops such as Filene's Basement.

As for the tie, I think striped number would be just fine. We love to overanalyze here at SF, but a conservative suit, solid shirt and striped tie would be unlikely to raise the eyebrows of even the most stodgy interviewer.

 

[sartort]

For shoes I would also recommend a pair of Crockett &amp; Jones from Plal.com Benchgrande models are under $400 shipped. I haven't personally ordered from them yet but they get high marks around here. I emailed Shayam (the owner) a question and he was very quick to respond. I feel C&amp;J offer great value for the money, especially at plal prices.

I also back up Doc's recommendation of Ron Rider and Marteganni if you are feeling more adventurous. And lastly Corneliani suits are great. I only have experience of Corneliani for Polo but I really like the suit. If don't have any luck with STP try Ralph Lauren. The Cornelaini for Polo models can be had for around 600 once they go on sale in about a month.

 

[ChicagoRon]

All good advice so far. Two comments....

1&gt; I personally would not wear a pocket square to an interview, but I think the tie sounds fine.

2&gt; Never buy just one pair of good shoes. You'll over-wear it. Unless you're sure you'll never need to wear them two days in a row, it makes sense to find a bargain on AE's and get two pair. Also, don't forget to include the cost of trees, since you'll want to take care of your first good pair.