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Shirts before suits or vice versa (bespoke)?

semperexcelsius

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When making the jump to bespoke, do you think it's better to have your shirts made before your suits or vice versa?
 

Ich_Dien

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The way that business wear is going, ie the popularity these days of shirt and no tie / jacket means that more emphasis is being placed on the fit of your shirt.

However, shirts are essentially an undergarment, and a disposable one at that as they will never last as long as a suit. I also believe a lot of people place far too much emphasis on shirt fit when the majority of the time it is covered.

It really depends on your circumstances. If you wear suits for work then I'd go bespoke for that first. Bespoke shirts really are very much of an unnecessary luxury when there are so many RTW options available.
 

marcodalondra

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Completely disagree with the below, and if you take the jacket off like in most western offices, the shirt will show a lot more than you may plan. I think bespoke shirt are really important before passing onto bespoke suit/jackets as the high armhole, and collar will need to have suitable proportioned shirts.
The way that business wear is going, ie the popularity these days of shirt and no tie / jacket means that more emphasis is being placed on the fit of your shirt.

However, shirts are essentially an undergarment, and a disposable one at that as they will never last as long as a suit. I also believe a lot of people place far too much emphasis on shirt fit when the majority of the time it is covered.

It really depends on your circumstances. If you wear suits for work then I'd go bespoke for that first. Bespoke shirts really are very much of an unnecessary luxury when there are so many RTW options available.
 

Ich_Dien

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Completely disagree with the below, and if you take the jacket off like in most western offices


It really depends on your circumstances


I don't see what there is to disagree with, I basically said the same as you?

In an ideal world all of your wardrobe would be bespoke...but the high cost for bespoke shirts, and minimum order limit, isn't entirely justifiable in my opinion.

Saying you need a bespoke collar to fit your suit is like saying you need bespoke shoes first in order to know where to cuff your trousers on the vamp...very much an idealisation.
 
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gs77

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Completely disagree with the below, and if you take the jacket off like in most western offices, the shirt will show a lot more than you may plan. I think bespoke shirt are really important before passing onto bespoke suit/jackets as the high armhole, and collar will need to have suitable proportioned shirts.


This is the same trend that drives people to wearing running shoes to work. Shirt is undergarment, and I do not see why would anyone take jacket off in public place. Bespoke shirts are completely unnecessary unless you really have specific build, or are looking for something very non standard.

If you have suit jacket of decent material, that fits you well and has good construction (moves well), there is no need to take it off - doesn't really matter if it's bespoke or RTW.
 

12345Michael54321

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Buy your bespoke shirts first, if you're in need of new shirts and OTR/MTM shirts won't cut it for you.

Buy your bespoke suits first, if you're in need of new suits and OTR/MTM suits won't cut if for you.

If you need both, buy both.

If you need both, but can't afford to buy both at this time, then buy the one you need most urgently.

If you need neither, but just like the idea of wearing a bespoke garment or two, then buy whichever one will better satisfy your psychological need for a bespoke garment. (If either would satisfy equally well, buy the shirts, as they'll set you back less money.)

Anyway, it's bespoke shoes which really matter. :)
 

gs77

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Buy your bespoke shirts first, if you're in need of new shirts and OTR/MTM shirts won't cut it for you.

Buy your bespoke suits first, if you're in need of new suits and OTR/MTM suits won't cut if for you.

If you need both, buy both.

If you need both, but can't afford to buy both at this time, then buy the one you need most urgently.

If you need neither, but just like the idea of wearing a bespoke garment or two, then buy whichever one will better satisfy your psychological need for a bespoke garment. (If either would satisfy equally well, buy the shirts, as they'll set you back less money.)

Anyway, it's bespoke shoes which really matter. :)


Bravo! You are right. Your health, and the way you look while standing and walking depend a lot on good fitting shoe.
 

semperexcelsius

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Buy your bespoke shirts first, if you're in need of new shirts and OTR/MTM shirts won't cut it for you.

Buy your bespoke suits first, if you're in need of new suits and OTR/MTM suits won't cut if for you.

If you need both, buy both.

If you need both, but can't afford to buy both at this time, then buy the one you need most urgently.

If you need neither, but just like the idea of wearing a bespoke garment or two, then buy whichever one will better satisfy your psychological need for a bespoke garment. (If either would satisfy equally well, buy the shirts, as they'll set you back less money.)

Anyway, it's bespoke shoes which really matter.
smile.gif
I'm getting all three, don't you worry
smile.gif


I was just wondering if it's better to have the shirts already to be fitted for the suit, or something like that
 

marcodalondra

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I don't see what there is to disagree with, I basically said the same as you?

In an ideal world all of your wardrobe would be bespoke...but the high cost for bespoke shirts, and minimum order limit, isn't entirely justifiable in my opinion.

Saying you need a bespoke collar to fit your suit is like saying you need bespoke shoes first in order to know where to cuff your trousers on the vamp...very much an idealisation.
it is not the same. The shirts will affect how the jacket fits. Once you get your shirts made, cuff lenght, sleeve width, collar height can all be proportioned together. Most Italian makers have no min orders, and once you can afford bespoke suit/jacket, getting the right shirts first makes absolute sense. A common problem in RTW shirts for people that have a slight forward stance is a bulging of fabric at the base of the collar behind the neck.

Shirts are not an undergarment anymore, and the reality is that people can and will remove their jacket in office environments. You may not do at a client meeting or wedding, but the reality is that if it is too warm, people remove the jackets rather than sweat through them.
 

chogall

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I'm getting all three, don't you worry :)

I was just wondering if it's better to have the shirts already to be fitted for the suit, or something like that


Get your bespoke boxers, undershirts, and socks first so you can fit your bespoke shirt and shoes around your bespoke undergarment, and then your bespoke suits over your bespoke shirts and shoes.
 

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