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shirts and general fit question for V shaped body

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by dchun, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. dchun

    dchun New Member

    Sep 12, 2011
    I have always had a problem finding shirts slim enough for my body. Every dress shirt had to be tailored in the torso area. I recently tried 5th & lamar shirts since they set out to specifically address the large midsection problem.

    So far they appear to fit better than most shirts but with my body type I still feel like it can be improved.

    My jacket/chest size is 38/40 and waist/pants is 29/30 depending on the store. I find that most "mediums" fit me well in the shoulders but the stomach is way too large. most "smalls" fit better in the stomach but then my shoulders are very cramped, almost to the point where I might tear the seams in certain positions. I would say I have fairly large shoulder muscles and lats because that's where I feel the most discomfort.

    Is my best option to go custom? I feel like I can get by but I was wondering if there were any brands that catered to this type of shape before I consider going bespoke.
  2. TexasDan

    TexasDan Senior member

    Jun 2, 2011
    I have a similar problem. The solution was to go MTM for me.
  3. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Oct 16, 2006
    New York City
    You could always just get them tailored. It is usually like a $10-$15 job.
  4. Costanza

    Costanza Senior member

    Dec 17, 2010
    I have the same drop and find several 'slim fit' shirts work fine for me. I guess it depends on how tight you want it to be. I'm happy with minimal bunching at the waist band. There is a thread on slim fits btw.
  5. Birks and Grey Socks

    Birks and Grey Socks Senior member

    Feb 2, 2011

    I have the same problem. I bought a sewing machine and learned to take in the sides and sleeves on my shirts. It takes 30 min per shirt. Less time than going to the shops and trying and retrying shirts that don't fit to my satisfaction.
  6. Rincon

    Rincon Senior member

    Oct 25, 2011
    Just buy a large and get the shirt taken in. Should only cost $15-$20.
  7. tricky

    tricky Senior member

    Aug 15, 2008
    Same here and like others have said, every shirt gets altered to fit. Usually a matter of darting the back.
  8. musicguy

    musicguy Senior member

    Oct 1, 2008
    Santiago de Chile
    Dude, just go MTM. You'll be happier. It'll save you time in the long run too.
  9. gettoasty

    gettoasty Senior member

    Feb 8, 2010
    regarding the minmal bunching at the waist, how to solve this?

    get the waist taken in really tight to the body, and/or get MTM shirts with tailored waists?

    on the contrary, i think a fuller waist, but not loose, will perhaps be better to solving the extra material bunching.

    THAT, or it has to do with how tight the actually waist is on the pants. I think it is the latter; bunching being a result of the tightness in your waistband of trousers.
  10. negusnegas

    negusnegas Senior member

    Feb 19, 2008
    New York, NY
    I agree with the above poster. It is likely a combination of trousers waist and shirt waist. The lower the waist on your trousers and/or looser the waist on your trousers the more difficult it will be to avoid bunching. I use to battle the same thing and found that slightly higher waisted trousers minimized the bunching effect a great deal.
  11. sportin_life

    sportin_life Senior member

    Nov 24, 2007
    Seattle, WA
    I found darting slim fit shirts works well, but some guys hate the look of them.
  12. Liquidus

    Liquidus Senior member

    Mar 7, 2009
    San Francisco, California

    For me, the choice of having darts vs having my shirts balloon out of my back is a no brainer.
    Last edited: Nov 7, 2011
  13. Verniza

    Verniza Senior member

    May 30, 2011
    I'd second the MTM notion.

    Like you I have a V shape, 38" chest drop 7 with a 15.75"-16" neck. Most of my shirts had to be taken in due to it being too big if it fits my neck. My Finamore and Borrellis don't fit me at all and had to be taken in at the sleeves/waist/length. Negating my savings.

    Although, SF-ers forgive me for saying this, fashion labels fit me perfectly. Shirts from Gucci, Burberry, Dior etc fits me perfectly both in the neck and the waist because it is cut ridiculously slim. If you can forgo quality for fit and wanna go OTR you could try fashion labels out.
  14. Midnight

    Midnight Well-Known Member

    Oct 2, 2010
    You might want to try TM Lewin Slim Fit. The width at the waist is generally 7.5 inches narrower than the width at the chest.
  15. david3558

    david3558 Senior member

    Sep 26, 2007
    San Francisco
    Would one recommend darting over just having the shirt taken in from the sides?
  16. smashwindow

    smashwindow Senior member

    Mar 9, 2012
    Depends, darts visually slim shirt by just being there; irregardless of how much fabric you're taking in. If there is a box pleat or shoulder pleats on the the yoke I would get them taken in at the sides, shouldn't too cost much more it requires a little more work as you have to sew 3 seams (including flat felled seams and a a twice turned hem) as opposed to just sewing two seams that don't even require a seam finish.
    Last edited: Sep 4, 2012
  17. Benesyed

    Benesyed Senior member

    Aug 9, 2010

    I feel you. I have very thick traps/lats/pec/shoulders so in that area the best fit is like a 16.5 to a 17. Except my waist is more for a size 15 shirt. The best solution I've found is to get L or XL shirts and have them taken in and most of the time darted. I also have the sleeves adjusted to match the slimness throughout. I wish there were more shirts that had a little bit of elastane in them but were not gaudy garbage brands. But I guess they just assume if you go to a gym then you must drug your knuckles along the floor.

    I think darting is a must if you oversize to fit. The back puff that remains even after its taken in from the sides is pretty atrocious (depends on the way its sewn too).
    Last edited: Sep 10, 2012
  18. luxire

    luxire Senior member Affiliate Vendor

    May 26, 2012
    Edison, NJ
    It is one of the paradoxes of life. We read often that RTW clothing are made for fit people/ Greek gods etc etc, but the fittest of people find it difficult to buy clothing that fits them well.

    Fact is, rtw clothes are made like the daily horoscope columns, having something for everyone.

    Even when using an MTM service and providing the right measurements, getting the perfect fit may require a couple of iterations. To get it right the first time, you need to discuss the following with your shirt-maker apart from other details:

    1. Desired fit
    2. Measurements
    3. Shoulder slopes
    4. Shoulder lean
    5. Overall posture

    As an online MTM service, we encourage our clients to send us front and back images of themselves in a dress shirt. It helps us analyze the body shape, posture, shoulder slopes, arms and then decide on the shape to be given to the shirt.

    It works pretty well and as there is no extra cost for the service, it is appreciated as a mechanism to improve fit.

    We prefer making shirts without darts and instead put extra efforts in giving the shirt the right shape by cutting it correctly and sewing the seams skillfully. But, darts have their place.
    Darting plays an important dual role. It not only gives the waist the right look, it should also be used to make room for the more prominent upper back that many people with athletic bodies have.
  19. Jermyn

    Jermyn Senior member

    Jan 8, 2011
    I have all of my shirts either MTM or darted as well as being taken in at the sides. I find that having a pleat in the centre also helps me to move without feeling any discomfort in my lats and rhomboids. I have quite a prominent back so YMMV, I know not many people round here recommend a pleat with darts, it really works well for me though.

    For reference:
    neck 17"
    chest 42"
    waist 32"

    I'm not a large guy by any means, I just think that my overall proportions lead to me needing alterations on any RTW, luckily I have long arms though so at least they never require alterations!
  20. NAMOR

    NAMOR Senior member

    Sep 3, 2010
    Heavenly & Northstar
    If you have a great tailor than get the side seams altered. However my tailor is so-so and fucks up the seams so it's darts for me

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