1. Styleforum Gives - Holiday Charity Auction 11: Any Three (3) Customized Ties from Vanda Fine Clothing

    We are very proud to present this year's edition of the Styleforum Holiday Charity Auctions, this year in support of the Ronald McDonald House Charities of Spokane (www.rmhcspokane.org). Each Auction lasts 24 hours. Please follow and bid on all the auctions.

    The 11th auction of the year is for any three customized ties from Vanda Fine Clothing. Please bid often and generously here

    Fok and the Styleforum Team.

    Dismiss Notice
Dismiss Notice

STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Shirt Problem

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by water, Jan 17, 2005.

  1. water

    water Senior Member

    Messages:
    389
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2004
    I was wondering if someone could offer a little help with a problem that I continually seem to have with my shirts. As you can see in the picture, I keep getting a "fabric pulling" between the top of the front placket and my shoulders (particularly my right shoulder). Now, I know my shoulder measurement is right and the rest of the shirt fits great but these "folds" are quite distracting. Anyone know what I can alter to fix it? Or anyone know what the cause of it might be? [​IMG] Any help is appreciated.
     


  2. amirrorcrackd

    amirrorcrackd Senior Member

    Messages:
    705
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Oct 27, 2004
    Location:
    NY, NY
    It looks as though the collar is too big and you are compensating by tightening the tie too much for the shirt. Perhaps a smaller collar would be better?

    Dan
     


  3. water

    water Senior Member

    Messages:
    389
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2004
    I should have taken a picture without the tie, as the pulling exists with or without. Actually, if anything, I would say the collar is too small as it is a little tight.

    I figure it has something to do with my erect stance... any guesses?
     


  4. MCA

    MCA Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    77
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2004
    In my untrained eyes the wrinkles look as those caused by shrugging. So maybe your shoulders are too high for the shirt. Another cause could be the "neck hole" is farther back than it should, and as your neck pulls the collar forward it creates the wrinkles in the front.

    Also I think the shoulders are a tad wide (in particular your left).

    Mr. Kabbaz would likely give you a much more educated assessment.

    Good luck.
     


  5. water

    water Senior Member

    Messages:
    389
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2004
    MCA, I think you are right that my shoulders are high for the shirt and really feel this is the problem. I would be interested in hearing how this is usually fixed. Do tailors alter the yoke? If so, in what way? Oddly, I never noticed that the shoulders do look a touch wide. Now, of course, it jumps out at me. [​IMG]
     


  6. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    2,686
    Likes Received:
    13
    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2004
    Your shoulders of of differing lengths -- the right side is perfect, only left side is wide. I have the same problem, and even with Jantzen think it isn't worth the trouble to deal with that 1/8" problem that is noticeable only to me.

    The problem is that the yoke of your shirt is cut for someone with shoulders that are more sloped than yours. You have normal, or even square shoulders. It is a problem that cannot be cured by anything other than having the yoke done properly for your shape.

    Who made this shirt?
     


  7. water

    water Senior Member

    Messages:
    389
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2004
    This is a Jantzen shirt. When I ordered it I indicated "Normal Shoulder" as, like most people, I did not notice anything particularly "abnormal" about my shoulder stance. [​IMG] I was hoping to fix this problem with subsequent orders. I sent one a couple of days ago (hopefully received before the latest moratorium) and mentioned in the order that I have high shoulders (as well as referenced the picture.) My main curiousity surrounded how exactly such a thing would be fixed. I had a suspicion that it was mainly down to the yoke.
     


  8. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    2,686
    Likes Received:
    13
    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2004
    It's all in the traps. I'm not going to ask to see a pic with your shirt off [​IMG], but it might be that you either have sloped shoulders or square shoulders. To be honest, I've yet to figure out whether these folds are the result of too sloped a shirt or too square a shirt. I have the same problem with an H & M shirt I have (wiping the tomatoes off my face -- but it's slim fitting for casual wear in a fairly decent fabric and I changed the buttons to thick MOPs, guys.). But I'm certain that's the cause of the problem.
     


  9. water

    water Senior Member

    Messages:
    389
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2004
    I tend to think it is due more to "square" than "sloped" shoulders. The reason I say this is that I often get loose material near my traps. Still, my shoulders do not appear all that "square" to me either... [​IMG] When I asked Ricky he only mentioned that I have "high" shoulders. The thing is, I would like to know more about how a tailor accounts for "high" shoulders.
     


  10. NewYorkBuck

    NewYorkBuck Senior Member

    Messages:
    482
    Likes Received:
    13
    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2004
    I have VERY square shoulders - every time I have a new suit fitted, I always have a huge knapsack of material on the back under the collar. My non custom shirts do the same thing. I have never noticed a problem in the front, but the back of my shirts and suits invariably have this problem.
     


  11. water

    water Senior Member

    Messages:
    389
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2004
    I have the same problem (loose fabric at the back of the collar) with RTW suits and shirts. The pulling at the front never happens with RTW shirts, only those I have ordered from Jantzen.
     


  12. water

    water Senior Member

    Messages:
    389
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2004
    Alright, in an effort to discover a solution to this problem, I took a picture of my shoulders. Does it look like I have square or sloped shoulders? [​IMG] I know the picture is not great, the shadow makes it harder to judge.
     


  13. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    2,686
    Likes Received:
    13
    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2004
    I'd say sloped, because you have pretty well-developed traps. I'll bet if you took the edge of the shoulder of the shirt and lifted it by an inch, the ripples would go away. That to me would indicate that the shirt's yoke is made for square shoulders.

    Also, why don't you go get a hem or something fixed at a good local tailor and ask him his opinion (wear the rippling shirt).
     


  14. Tom

    Tom Senior Member

    Messages:
    274
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jan 6, 2004
    Location:
    Berkeley, California
    I specialize in posture, and although to be certain I'd need a side view, it looks to me as if your shoulders are slightly forward, particularly the left one, I assume you also have forward head carriage. My recommendation is that you put your shirt back on and then while looking in the mirror, actively draw your left shoulder posterior. If this solves the problem, hold it there. =)

    -Dr. Tom
     


  15. Alexander Kabbaz

    Alexander Kabbaz Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    1,272
    Likes Received:
    6
    Joined:
    Dec 22, 2003
    Location:
    East Hampton & New York
    Not bad, Dr. Tom. Your opinion is pretty much on the mark. Water, the problem has nothing to do with the slope of your shoulders. It relates to the forward curve of your shoulders. The good news it that now you know what the problem is. The bad news is that there are very few shirtmakers who know how to fix the problem. It cannot be solved in a M-T-M shirt such as Jantzen. Some custom shirtmakers might be able to design a proper yoke for you. The only practical solution which will alleviate the situation is for you to wear looser fitting shirts. Dr. Tom - Would you like a job? [​IMG]
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by