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Shirt length

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by naturlaut, Feb 22, 2004.

  1. naturlaut

    naturlaut Senior member

    Messages:
    565
    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2003
    I have come to realize that 'long shirt tail' is merely a marketing gimmick for ready-made shirt makers so as to accomodate people of different height. I am not that tall (5"10) and sometimes the extra-long shirt tail just becomes a bundle under my pants. My new shirt from my tailor just came in and this time it is tailored a little shorter than the other ones, and it works fine. What's your opinion on shirt length? For those doing bespoke, how long do you usually have your shirts made?

    Second question: while shirt cuffs are always made to fit your wrists, how 'wide' are your jacket cuffs? I have yet to decide the perfect proportion between the jacket cuffs and the wrist/shirt cuffs. Ready-made suits always have cuffs that are too wide, for obvious reasons. I have mine 4" larger all-around (or 2" wider), what are your opinions?
     
  2. Alias

    Alias Senior member

    Messages:
    1,536
    Joined:
    Oct 7, 2003
    Location:
    Washington DC
    I try to get shirts with a length that covers most of my seat, and doesn't go past my trouser fork. I don't notice any bunching up, but I imagine it would show if I wore something with a very light fabric.

    Cuff width bothers me immensely. I have thin wrists (around 6" circumference) and I like french cuffs, so I inadvertently get french cuffs that balloon around my hands. I'd like them a bit more snug.
     
  3. Nick M

    Nick M Senior member

    Messages:
    1,491
    Joined:
    Sep 10, 2002
    Location:
    Melbourne, Australia
    EDIT: ^^^ Go team narrow wrists. That's something that bugs me immensely about RTW French-cuffed shirts - they're inevitably made with incredibly wide cuffs to accomodate everyone, but drop down to cover my whole hand.

    I have my shirts made 27 inches long - from the bottom of the collar to the bottom hem. I'm not particularly tall, so this gives me about 4 inches of material to tuck in if I feel the urge, and if I leave it untucked, it reaches about halfway down my back pockets, which I feel is the ideal length.

    Extra-long shirt tails have always struck me as unneccessary, as well - while wearing a dress shirt and trousers, I rarely do anything demanding enough to untuck my shirt, and I'd rather have a shirt I can wear tucked or untucked, rather than buying a shirt for each 'way'.
     
  4. matadorpoeta

    matadorpoeta Senior member

    Messages:
    4,458
    Joined:
    Jul 28, 2003
    i'm also 5'10" and my shirt length is 31". it's possible i don't need this much but after having the experience of having an otherwise favorite shirt become untucked, i'd rather err on the long side. it also depends of course on how high the slits are on the side of the shirt, as this is where it is most likely to become untucked. as for the jacket cuffs, it's more a matter of preference than the shirt cuff. i think there should be some symmetry between the the flair of the pants hem and the size of the jacket cuff. i have smallish wrists also (6 3/4") and this is yet another excuse for me to avoid rtw shirts. [​IMG] p.s. i've realized that one of the reasons i never got into wearing a watch was because i didn't want to draw attention to my small wrists. i've always been rather insecure about them, but as i get older i care less and less.
     
  5. Tom

    Tom Senior member

    Messages:
    274
    Joined:
    Jan 6, 2004
    Location:
    Berkeley, California
    I like my shirts about 2" shorter than my jackets, so about 30" works great for me.

    Tom
     

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