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Shirt Fit Problem

paulraphael

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I originally posted this on the Proper Cloth affiliate thread. No one there was able to diagnose this. And I've since realized that I have this problem, to one degree or another, with many shirts from other MTM and OTR makers.

When I wear the shirts open at the neck, there are pull lines, parallel to the placket, that run up to the collar. They're worse with two buttons open, but still present with one button open. They disappear when the shirt's buttoned up all the way (but these are shirts I mostly wear without a tie).

I've had shirts made with varying degrees of collar-forward adjustment and shoulder slope. It's hard to correlate the problem with either of those measurements. The collars all fit fine ... maybe 1/4" larger than a textbook dress shirt fit on the MTM shirts, bigger on the the OTRs.

Any thoughts?

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Raphaelson-3.jpg
 

Detroit_Sartor

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Perhaps its your trapezius, and the yoke needs to be made taller to accommodate the trapezius along with shoulder slope adjustment... Also a less of a cut-away style collar... perhaps a structured standing collar with a down ward point, along with more stabilizing interfacing in the placket might help.
 

paulraphael

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I have this problem with different collar styles—fused and unfused, spread and buttondown. I'm about to get a shirt with an adjustment to the shoulder slope ... but suspect this isn't the problem, since changing the slope of my actual shoulders doesn't affect this issue one way or the other.

A yoke adjustment is an interesting idea. But really only theoretically. I'm getting most shirts from Proper Cloth, and like other MTM makers, this isn't one of the adjustments they make. If the answer ends up being "go bespoke," I'll just end up living with this. Because pull lines are better than going broke.
 

c_omeara

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Generally, when you are wearing a shirt unbuttoned at the neck, you want to go 1/2" smaller than your neck size, it helps keep everything cleaner looking and prevents those lines you are getting, it makes the collar sit about 1/8" further back, but that should help with the lines you are getting, if you try a shirt that is 1/2" smaller in the neck and the lines still happen, I'd recommend looking at how the shirt fits you in the chest and back, see if it's pulling anywhere, if it is, that might be your problem.
 

paulraphael

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Generally, when you are wearing a shirt unbuttoned at the neck, you want to go 1/2" smaller than your neck size, it helps keep everything cleaner looking and prevents those lines you are getting, it makes the collar sit about 1/8" further back, but that should help with the lines you are getting, if you try a shirt that is 1/2" smaller in the neck and the lines still happen, I'd recommend looking at how the shirt fits you in the chest and back, see if it's pulling anywhere, if it is, that might be your problem.
Interesting, thanks. This is one I haven't heard before. How have you figured this out?

I had a couple of new shirts made with the shoulder slope increased, and the neck-forward adjustment decreased, and this helps ... the lines are mostly gone but not entirely. The general fit is greatly improved.
 

c_omeara

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Interesting, thanks. This is one I haven't heard before. How have you figured this out?

I had a couple of new shirts made with the shoulder slope increased, and the neck-forward adjustment decreased, and this helps ... the lines are mostly gone but not entirely. The general fit is greatly improved.
My personal tailor recommended this to me. When I'm out and about running errands or meeting with clients I generally wear a sport coat, chino's, and an unbuttoned shirt. I was having problems with having a little extra fabric around the shoulders when my dress shirts were unbuttoned, so I got some shirts that were a little bit smaller in the neck size but the same fit throughout the body, the smaller neck size has a little less fabric then what you normally wear, but it makes a huge difference in the fit. Hope this helps!
 

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I originally posted this on the Proper Cloth affiliate thread. No one there was able to diagnose this. And I've since realized that I have this problem, to one degree or another, with many shirts from other MTM and OTR makers.

When I wear the shirts open at the neck, there are pull lines, parallel to the placket, that run up to the collar. They're worse with two buttons open, but still present with one button open. They disappear when the shirt's buttoned up all the way (but these are shirts I mostly wear without a tie).

I've had shirts made with varying degrees of collar-forward adjustment and shoulder slope. It's hard to correlate the problem with either of those measurements. The collars all fit fine ... maybe 1/4" larger than a textbook dress shirt fit on the MTM shirts, bigger on the the OTRs.

Any thoughts?

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View attachment 1261812View attachment 1261811


View attachment 1261812
The crease could also be down to the fabric itself. If you have the same shirt in another lighter fabric, you may not be experiencing the issue, and not to the same degree.
Certain heavier fabrics behave completely differently, even if cut for the same person, as opposed to a lighter weight fabric option.
 

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