Shirt construction question- top button rollover

[otis]

I have a problem with certain dress shirts where the fabric above the top button tends to roll over after a few washings, making it difficult to get the tie to sit correctly. My shirts are all either Brooks Brothers or Polo, this has never happened to any of the Polo shirts, even those years old, but happens with almost all of the Brooks. I can't tell a difference in the construction that would prevent this on one vs. the other. When I had a Brooks MTM last year, the salesman specified something where an extra stitch goes around the top inside of the collar which I think is designed to make it stand up straighter. So far that shirt has not had this issue. Any advice on avoiding this with future shirts either MTM or RTW?

 

[retronotmetro]

By "rolling over" do you mean that the collar band is developing a roll or fold parallel to the top buttonhole?

Are you washing the shirts yourselves, or sending them out to a laundry service?

Your description sounds like the problem many people get with shirts pressed at a commercial laundry--the collar band can get deformed from being pressed on a shirt buck, which doesn't happen if the collar is hand folded and pressed.

 

[ptolbert]

I think he's speaking about the fabric above the top button hole, is rolling a bit, causing his tie to sit lower on the collar.


I have the same problem, I correct it with a straight pin.

 

[retronotmetro]

I think he's speaking about the fabric above the top button hole, is rolling a bit, causing his tie to sit lower on the collar.


I have the same problem, I correct it with a straight pin.

Do you press your own shirts, or send them to a commercial laundry?

 

[otis]

I think you're both describing the problem, the fabric folds over above the buttonhole. I do send the shirts to the laundry, but I send the ones that this hasn't happened to as well.

 

[bch]

Perhaps it has something to do with the absence of interlining reinforcement at the point of the buttonhole? Is the collar band more flimsy on the affected shirts?

Perhaps the button hole is situated slightly higher on the unaffected shirts?

 

[retronotmetro]

I think we need Kabbaz to weigh in on construction details, but I believe that shirts pressed on a buck will have this happen sooner or later. I also find (for whatever reason) that my Polo button-down shirts, which go to the "cheap" laundry, are less susceptible to this problem than certain other shirts, but do exhibit some breakdown over time. That's why my better shirts go to the "good" laundry, or are washed and ironed at home.