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Shirt Collars - Fused or Unfused?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Grammaton Cleric, Jul 16, 2010.

  1. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Well-Known Member

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    Are fused collars always a sign of lower quality / workmanship, or do they merely represent an alternate method of construction?
     
  2. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

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    I would not say always. Though I always get unfused, I can live with a fused collar. Some makers, e.g., Kabbaz, do a very nice fused collar. I can't live with a fused cuff.
     
  3. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Well-Known Member

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    I can't live with a fused cuff.

    Thank you - is a fused collar/cuff stiffer and more liable to shrink?
     
  4. Yale Cameron

    Yale Cameron Well-Known Member

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    how does one tell from looking or feeling whether a collar or cuff is fused vs. unfused?
     
  5. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

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    Thank you - is a fused collar/cuff stiffer and more liable to shrink?

    Definitely stiffer. Not more liable to shrink in my experience. In any case, the collar band is what you have to worry about there, and it is never fused.
     
  6. JamesX

    JamesX Well-Known Member

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    If the collar is very stiff, almost like paper/plastic, the it is fused. If you see bubbling (which is one of their biggest problems) then it is fused.
     
  7. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Well-Known Member

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  8. sellahi22

    sellahi22 Well-Known Member

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    strong preference for unfused here; hate stiff collars
     
  9. SpallaCamiccia

    SpallaCamiccia Well-Known Member

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  10. Sanguis Mortuum

    Sanguis Mortuum Well-Known Member

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    strong preference for unfused here; hate stiff collars

    Fusing doesn't have to be stiff...
     
  11. mafoofan

    mafoofan Well-Known Member

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    All the neapolitan shirtmakers are fused and very stiff.

    All the ready-to-wear Neapolitan shirt factories might make stiff, fused collars, but the Neapolitan bespoke shirtmakers are a different story.
     
  12. Freddy Vandecasteele

    Freddy Vandecasteele Well-Known Member

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    All the ready-to-wear Neapolitan shirt factories might make stiff, fused collars, but the Neapolitan bespoke shirtmakers are a different story.


    I think every Good shirtmaker not only in Naples will give you options.
    I have never been to Naples but I try to accomodate
    Freddy Vandecasteele
     
  13. Professor Chaos

    Professor Chaos Well-Known Member

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    Unfused collar is the right way to go. Fused collar is good for budget items, unfused is better if you have appreciate a finer finish.
    This shows ignorance. They are different, and they both have their place. It's true that cheap shirts have fused collars, but certainly not all shirts with fused collars are cheap or low quality.
     
  14. calvinloke

    calvinloke Well-Known Member

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    I have both. However the fused ones once they got creased or wrinkled they are almost impossible to fix. Probably I'm wearing cheap ones.
     
  15. Ataturk

    Ataturk Well-Known Member

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    I think a lot of people prefer sewn-in interfacing just because it's rarely used in ready-to-wear shirts. If you want a neat-looking collar, that stays neat, that's easy to keep neat after laundering, etc., stick with fusing. If you want an imperfect look, a little puckering at the seams, etc., or an extremely soft collar, then you should avoid it. But thinking sewn-in interfacing is superior because most people don't use it seems silly to me.
     
  16. mafoofan

    mafoofan Well-Known Member

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    I think every Good shirtmaker not only in Naples will give you options.
    I have never been to Naples but I try to accomodate
    Freddy Vandecasteele


    The "formal" white shirt my Neapolitan shirtmaker made for me has a fused collar, but none of my other shirts from her do. My point is not that you can't get a fused called from a shirtmaker in Naples, but that fused collars are not typical of the archetypical Neapolitan shirt.
     
  17. Professor Chaos

    Professor Chaos Well-Known Member

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    I think a lot of people prefer sewn-in interfacing just because it's rarely used in ready-to-wear shirts. If you want a neat-looking collar, that stays neat, that's easy to keep neat after laundering, etc., stick with fusing. If you want an imperfect look, a little puckering at the seams, etc., or an extremely soft collar, then you should avoid it. But thinking sewn-in interfacing is superior because most people don't use it seems silly to me.
    +1 I would say that it's not just silly, it's pretentious.
     
  18. Frodo

    Frodo Well-Known Member

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    A non-fused shirt will last as long as the fabric holds together, and can look good even if it's threadbare. A fused shirt basically lasts until the fusing fails, at which point it looks pretty lousy.
     
  19. Orphan

    Orphan Member

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    I actually prefer fused, this does seem to become an issue with cheaper shirts - I guess they use lesser adhesive or something but a couple of my cheaper fused collar shirts (OTR) have lost the fuse and the collar is terrible now, however my good shirts (made to measure) with a fused collar the collar is as crisp and defined as the day I got it. I can't stand a floppy/messy collar on work/dess shirts though unfused are fine with casual gear where a really crisp defined collar can look overdone. A cheap fused collar can be bad but when it comes to quality shirts fused/unfused is personal opinion and shirt use rather than one being higher quality than the other.
     
  20. James Perry

    James Perry New Member

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    There are several different weights of fusing. A fine shirt should be hand fused via a dry iron, this melts the glue better than using a heavy press method which can also dis-color the fusing.
    Where it puckers this shows where the glue has not melted properly into the cotton. You can use a 3 fold collar top in either 2 self and one plain color that will best match the top collar fabric. This allows for the fusing to be attached to the 3rd layer of top collar thus reducing the effects of any puckering to the top layer of the collar top.
     

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