I'm thinking of putting in a shirt order to Jantzen, but I haven't decided on back pleats. Perhaps someone can advise me. I have big shoulder blades, and usually fully open up most back pleats. I think this looks awful, especially for a box pleat. For example, my dress shirt staple the Brooks Brothers slim fit, has a box pleat which fully opens, popping out at the top where it meets the yoke of the shirt. It looks awful. The side pleats of my Tyrwhitt slim fit shirt are also open, but don't look all that bad. The best fitting dress shirt I have (FIT ONLY) is from H&M. This has no pleats at all in the back, and is tapered such that there are no wrinkles or folds whatsoever when I wear it. What is the purpose of back pleats then. It seems they generally take up width in fabric only in the section between the bottom of the yoke and the middle of the back. They don't take up slack where I need it removed, in the waist. What do you folks prefer, and why?