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Shifty gorges, shift posture

The Louche

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I posted about this on AAAC recently but didn't get too many responses.


I have several MTM jackets and suits from a business outside of Baltimore. I have always found these jackets to fit very very well (this has been corroborated by comments on pictures here and on AAAC). The other day I noticed that the gorge on the right side of one jacket was higher than the gorge on the left side. Not too bad but just enough to notice. I've had some of these jackets for over a year and they have always fit perfectly - I've never noticed this problem before. After correcting the jacket and going about my business I noticed it again. I then tested all of my other jackets from this business and noticed that they are off by similar amounts.

The jackets are made to account for a drop right shoulder (remember the right gorge is the one creeping higher). I don't feel that there is an error on the maker's behalf since each jacket is having identical issues. I think the problem may be caused by my posture correcting itself. When the pattern was made for these jackets I carried a heavy computer bag in my right hand to and from work each day. I don't anymore. Has anyone ever heard of posture fixing itself like this? Could there be other causes? Can this be easily fixed?
 

bigbjorn

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Have you been doing deadlifts? When I started doing deadlifts, I realized I hadn't been standing up straight for about 20 years.
 

Sterling Gillette

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This could be the cause. COULD. More likely, however, the gorge will look perfect when you move and don't stand still in iGent pose for photographic reasons.
 

The Louche

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No - I haven't lifted in a few years. I wasn't lifting when the pattern was locked-in either so I don't think that has anything to do with it. Besides, if I was dead lifting my traps and shoulders would theoretically be affected equally, not just on one side.
 

The Louche

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Originally Posted by Sterling Gillette
This could be the cause. COULD. More likely, however, the gorge will look perfect when you move and don't stand still in iGent pose for photographic reasons.

Ha ha! Actually the gorges ONLY look perfect when I iGent myself. When Ive been walking around the office and stop to check them in the bathroom they are skewed a bit.

Does anyone think I am being completely crazy about this?
 

bigbjorn

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Originally Posted by The Louche
Besides, if I was dead lifting my traps and shoulders would theoretically be affected equally, not just on one side.
Yes, that's true, but I've found that deadlifts improve posture pretty radically. If you'd typically slouched to one side, it could have been a reason for the difference. Perhaps it's just a little wabi sabi of a handmade garment?
 

The Louche

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Originally Posted by bigbjorn
Yes, that's true, but I've found that deadlifts improve posture pretty radically. If you'd typically slouched to one side, it could have been a reason for the difference. Perhaps it's just a little wabi sabi of a handmade garment?

Well I would be fine with that. But these aren't completely handmade. And each of the three jackets (and likely the fourth on its way) that I have is off by a nearly identical amount.
 

The Louche

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Just checked. Still shifty.
 

Despos

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The gorge is lowered the same amount as the jacket shoulder is cut lower to accommodate your low shoulder. This maker may be cutting the shoulder low but not the gorge. Rather than go by sight, measure straight sown from the shoulder seam to the corner point where the collar and lapel meet and create the notch. If the measurement on the right side is different than the left side, that is your answer.
 

The Louche

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Originally Posted by Despos
The gorge is lowered the same amount as the jacket shoulder is cut lower to accommodate your low shoulder. This maker may be cutting the shoulder low but not the gorge. Rather than go by sight, measure straight sown from the shoulder seam to the corner point where the collar and lapel meet and create the notch. If the measurement on the right side is different than the left side, that is your answer.

The measurments are different. Distance on right is less than left; I'd think it should be the other way around, no?

Thanks for weighing in Chris
 

Despos

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No, that is why the distance on the right is less because the right gorge should be cut lower because the right shoulder is cut lower. If it was cut lower, it would measure the same as the left. They are cutting the shoulder lower and not the gorge line. That you carry or don't carry your computer is irrelevant to this. It is the maker not you.
 

The Louche

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I got you now. So in your opinion am I being too picky. The difference isn't really that bad. Or should the maker really have accounted for the shoulder drop in the gorge as well? Should I raise hell about this or let it go?
 

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