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"Shark-Fin"/Extreme Cutaway Collars

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by wEstSidE, May 21, 2006.

  1. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    How can a shirtmaker omit to indicate what the sleeve length of their shirts is? [​IMG]
    Quite possibly, their shirts only come with one sleeve length per neck size. Many RTW shirts are made this way, even some of the expensive ones.
     


  2. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    Quite possibly, their shirts only come with one sleeve length per neck size. Many RTW shirts are made this way, even some of the expensive ones.

    I agree it is probably the case... but what is that sleeve length? It is not indicated in the size chart and different RTW makers use different standard sleeve lengths. For example, in my size (16), some shirt makers use a standard length of 33 or 34 while others use a length of 35 or 36...
     


  3. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    I agree it is probably the case... but what is that sleeve length? It is not indicated in the size chart and different RTW makers use different standard sleeve lengths. For example, in my size (16), some shirt makers use a standard length of 33 or 34 while others use a length of 35 or 36...
    Yeah, you never really know. It's been a while since I looked into this, but I recall that for a 16" neck, a 35" sleeve is the most common.
     


  4. trogdor

    trogdor Senior member

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    The other thing to bear in mind is that British RTW shirts tend to come with longer arms anyway. I seem to remember someone once saying that they all come too long, and the expectation is that you will have them shortened as appropriate.
     


  5. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    The other thing to bear in mind is that British RTW shirts tend to come with longer arms anyway.

    Not in my experience
     


  6. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    That may well be true if you do the math - i.e., 35" sleeves may occur more often than any other specific sleeve length with a 16" neck - but in my experience the "normal" range can be anywhere from 33" - 35". Someone who takes something along the lines of 16/35 stands a pretty good chance of getting too-short sleeves if he buys a RTW shirt with no sleeve length indicated.

    Exactly my problem. I can't understand how a company whose business is to make and sell shirts omits to indicate sleeve length, which is undoubtedly a critical element of fit...
     


  7. pkincy

    pkincy Senior member

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    Yeah, you never really know. It's been a while since I looked into this, but I recall that for a 16" neck, a 35" sleeve is the most common.

    In many of my more expensive Neopolitan hand made shirts the sleeve length is 35.5 or 36 inches on a 16/41 size.

    A bit long for me but it makes it easier to "show some cuff" without getting my sleeves shortened. <g>

    Perry
     


  8. tiger02

    tiger02 Militarist

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    Including sleeve length in shirt size is IME a uniquely American affectation. Continental makers use only the circumference of the neck, in cm. Brits may be different, but I think they usually use neck size in inches.
     


  9. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    Including sleeve length in shirt size is IME a uniquely American affectation.

    That's just not true at all. Visit other British shirtmakers' websites (from higher to lower end) and you will see the sleeve length clearly indicated either in the shirt description or the sizing chart (H&K, H&B, CT, TM Lewin...)
     


  10. tiger02

    tiger02 Militarist

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    OK, like I said, don't know the Brits so well. Is Crombie on par with the others you listed, quality wise?

    Personally, I would go through Jantzen, also considering trying out Baron Boutique.
     


  11. The Great Wazu

    The Great Wazu Well-Known Member

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    I'm going to revive this thread and hopefully breathe some new life into it.

    First off, I was wondering if any of ya'll know where I could get my dirty mittens on an Udeshi -- be it online or in person. I'm in NYC, so location would factor into my search (No, I'm not flying to England for a bloody shirt!)

    Secondly, and I guess more importantly, I want this shirt! Specifically, the collar cut is what attracts me the most. I just don't see much of this stuff in the states and I would love to get a few in a slim cut. Ideas?

    [​IMG]

    And on a side note -- :shivers: I just don't like peak lapels
     


  12. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    First off, I was wondering if any of ya'll know where I could get my dirty mittens on an Udeshi -- be it online or in person. I'm in NYC, so location would factor into my search (No, I'm not flying to England for a bloody shirt!)
    Bestofbritishshirts.com used to sell them but closed shop. Your best bet is simply to email Oscar Udeshi. He is a member of AAAC so you can PM or email him through the site
     


  13. imageWIS

    imageWIS Senior member

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    As much as I love the concept of the shark fin cutaway collar, I must say, that in practice, it's hard to pull off. I have one RLPL Keaton collar shirt and if I recall, I've only worn it once...

    Jon.
     


  14. LSeca

    LSeca Senior member

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    What do you all think of the shape of this guy's face in relation to his collar choice btw? I think he could have done better with a mid spread.


    [​IMG]
     


  15. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    I've always understood the sharkfin a.k.a. the Pat Riley collar to be different from a cutaway.

    Sharkfin - with a distinctively curved front edge
    [​IMG]

    Cutaway - a flat front edge that rolls nicely when worh with a tie
    [​IMG]

    Wide Spread - a straight edge that looks straight with a tie
    [​IMG]
     


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