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Discussion in 'Menswear Advice' started by Caustic Man, Apr 16, 2018.

  1. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Stylish Dinosaur

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    Thanks for posting this here. This fit provides an opportunity to enumerate several things that might help. First of all we'll start with the conclusion: This is an incoherent outfit that is confusing to the eye. You mentioned elsewhere that you come from a background in which you wore only white shirts and suits. Your desire to experiment is thus understandable. But I would re-iterate my suggestion that you start with the basics. Basics doesn't need to mean monochromatic or staid but it does mean that you start out with classic pairings that have proven themselves over time. I'm thinking of tweed and tattersall which is, interestingly, a combo in which the contrast of the cloth texture is pleasing rather than jarring. We can talk about why later, if you want. But also part of mastering the basics is getting fit and proportion right. A well fitting set of garments can make up for a lot of bad pattern and texture matching. Likewise, a bad fitting set of garments can ruin even the most coherent combos. So think about things in a holistic way.

    On to this fit: I can see that you attempted to correct at least one deficiency by selecting a tie with some texture and pairing it with a slubby jacket. However, there are other factors working against you in this case. Again, this fit lacks control of contrast. The shirt and jacket are so close that they mesh together in a muddled kind of way. This would't necessarily be a problem except that your tie and pocket square are so much darker that they stand out far too much. Again, the tie and square are fighting one another for attention. The dark trousers don't help matters because they only provide another solid block of darkness to distract the eye. The overall effect is that it looks as if you took random colors that you thought look good together and tossed them on in a slap-dash way. A darker jacket and plain white square would have helped.

    Back to shirts for a moment. You have a problem with them. You select shirts that probably shouldn't be worn with ties at all or at least not until you know what you're doing. Try sticking with simple stripes or checks if you are going to wear a necktie, at least at first. A traditional tattersall is probably as complex as you should go until you have a better sense of pattern.

    Final takeaway: If it's true that you're breaking free of a constrained menswear requirement I'd suggest that you are swinging the pendulum too far too fast. You are diving into non standard patterns, textures, and color combinations without a refined aesthetic sense.
     

  2. Brian Gray

    Brian Gray Member

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    What do you guys think about about this double rider? Is it too short?
    (sorry for the lousy photo)

    D553CE2C-9BAD-4835-BDF8-50C6BE38885C.jpg
     

  3. Eli Curt

    Eli Curt Senior Member

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    I understand some of what you said. I don't know why, but I feel like a successful ensemble includes contrast (which is why I chose the light shirt + jacket and the dark tie + square). I still don't really understand why it doesn't work. Maybe I'll just go back to solid white shirts and call it a day.

    I think the jacket length is OK, but the jeans could use a higher rise maybe? I have a shearling bomber that fits me similarly lengthwise.
     

  4. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Stylish Dinosaur

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    Eli, you are right to think that contrast is often a key to success. However, you are using it in an incoherent way. The message I was trying to convey is that when you try to get your contrast with your accessories alone they can look like they are hanging out there in space rather than being a part of a coherent whole.

    Dark jacket + light shirt + dark tie + white pocket square works so well because it staggers the contrasting items across the breadth of the look.
     

  5. Brian Gray

    Brian Gray Member

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    Thanks, Eli. Thats Levi's 501, but I could use some exercise.
    I have one cafe racer and it's bit longer.
    This is my first double rider so maybe it's just me.
     

  6. Eli Curt

    Eli Curt Senior Member

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    I think that with that jacket, confidence is more important than length.

    But yeah, it looks about right.
     

  7. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Distinguished Member

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    CM, this might be a noob question but I think that en Eli’s fit, my problem is with the tie being a twill and the jacket having all that texture. Plus all the point you already said.

    For the purpose of this thread, would you mind throwing a tie with more texture, Eli? And no square.

    Edit: the fit I’m referring to is the one with the Slub jacket. Hehe.
     

  8. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Stylish Dinosaur

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    Betel, both recent fits had a slub jacket. Which one are you referring to? If it is the latter one then yes, I think your observation is well put. I gave Eli credit for that one since he chose a tie with some texture to it so he's obviously thinking about it even if it wasn't the best choice. There are also color matching problems. Pairing purple and blue isn't the best idea in most cases. But, you know, one doesn't want to overwhelm. Then again, I'm not sure how serious he is about this.
     

  9. Eli Curt

    Eli Curt Senior Member

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    I am serious about learning.

     

  10. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Distinguished Member

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    I was talking about the first one hehe. The one with the new shirt and green slub.
     

  11. Purplelabel

    Purplelabel Distinguished Member

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    I like it, Caustic Man is a self-proclaimed 'trad guy' which is boring as balls.
    Have some contrast, have some fun and find a colour palette that works with your skin tone/hair. For example, I can't wear dark colours because I have fair skin and light hair and I also can't wear a lot of lighter colours.

    Textures are a big importance, too. Slubby sport coats need shirting fabrics like chambray, linen, oxford cloth cotton etc and high spun worsted suiting needs the slick cotton shirts like your Eidos.
     

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