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toplel

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So, I'm about 5'7" and stocky at about 190 lbs.
[/SPOILER]

Both of those are a little long for you. Disclaimer is I'm not an expert but I'm surprised no one else is pointing that out.
 

Caustic Man

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That's part of the difficulty. He wasn't asking for specific advice on what you adjust, he was just asking which was a better starting point for his body in his MTM efforts. In other words, he was asking what it right with these suits, not what is wrong. But both would need a lot of adjustments, length being only one.
 

flvinny521

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Both of those are a little long for you. Disclaimer is I'm not an expert but I'm surprised no one else is pointing that out.

You're correct, these are both regular lengths where my final garment would normally be a short. Neither company has a 44S available to try on so this was the closest we could get up front.
 

toplel

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EDIT: My mistake.

How much can you hem on a jacket length without it looking disportionate?
 

flvinny521

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EDIT: My mistake.

How much can you hem on a jacket length without it looking disportionate?

Not much.

They don't just hem the length and leave everything else the same. There are many adjustments when moving from a regular to a short. I'm not suggesting they leave everything the same and chop an inch and a half off the bottom...
 

Eli Curt

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I understood he was saying to shorten a sized regular to a short after purchasing. I misunderstood.
They don't just hem the length and leave everything else the same. There are many adjustments when moving from a regular to a short. I'm not suggesting they leave everything the same and chop an inch and a half off the bottom...
 

Caustic Man

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Yeah, the term “hem” made the question a little confusing. I have no doubt that both KW and SM would be mindful of the proportions when shortening a jacket pattern. You can ask about it to be sure. It’s definitely true that MTM will have a limit to how much they can adjust their patterns so you might want to inquire.
 

RabidOrphan

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The new wedding tie came . . . unfortunately, I also impulse bought two new suits. I am 5' 4", 135 lbs, and usually 36S Ralph Lauren suits fit me well with minimal alteration. These new suits, however, feel tight in the shoulders. I am unable to cross my arms in neither of them.

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The navy suit is a slim fit, and the grey suit is custom fit. Should I try size 38S or classic fit instead? All my old suits, Polo RL, RLBL, RLPL, BB Milano, BBBF, and TB suits are size 36S and still fit well in the shoulders. Thanks.
 

RabidOrphan

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Those are both really bad. Tight in the wasit, bad sleeve pitch, waving in the shoulder, trousers don't drape right. I don't know what you should try except to return those.

So the jackets are too small while pants are too big?
 

Caustic Man

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I'm not saying the trousers are too big they just don't drape straight. You see the bunching in the back of the leg? You shouldn't have that. Often it can be solved by lowering the rear rise of the trouser but I don't know how expensive that would be. As for the jackets they aren't right for you. In some places, yes, they are "small" or tight, in other places it's really a matter of balance and proportion.
 

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