Hey all, Want to say this is a very informative site and I'm very glad there's a place where I can get such useful sartorial information. Introduction aside, I have several loaded questions I was wondering if some kind folks can answer. 1. Single-needle stitching versus double-needle stitching for dress shirts. If what I've read is correct, the easy way to tell is to examine the side seam of the shirt. Double-stitched will have two parallel stitches running on the outside whereas single-stitched will have one stitch and a fold with the other stitch on the inside of the shirt. Is that accurate? Do manufacturers stitch different parts of the shirt together differently? 2. How do I tell a fused suit jacket/blazer/sportcoat from a canvas (hand-made)? Can you tell just by looking? 3. Does anyone have recommendations for getting a suit custom made by a tailor that offers that service? In particular, I'm wondering if there are particular questions I need to ask like where they get their materials from and who actually does the work? Thanks in advance for any insight you can provide.