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Serious Crimes Against CM

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by unbelragazzo, Mar 29, 2013.

  1. aravenel

    aravenel Senior member

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    Its important to distinguish between Clusterfucks and merely Not Ideal.

    Square toed shoes, giant or novelty tie knots, tie with no jacket, black shirts with a suit/jacket--these are clusterfucks. The wrong number of vents on a tux, suits without a tie, while these may drive some or even most of us nuts, I don't think they are the right thing for what Unbel is proposing. There can be argument about them. There can be no argument that a black shirt with a suit looks atrocious.

    Of course, now that I have said that, 30 noobs are going to try to convince us that black shirts are actually great "when done correctly".
     
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2013
  2. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    For example, tie no jacket will immediately be condemned as the cell phone salesman look in any CM thread.

    In this case I happen to agree. It looks unfinished and juvenile. I never take my jacket off in the office either, but I understand many do. But it's kind of beside the point. Just trying to document consensus.
     
  3. aravenel

    aravenel Senior member

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    I think I could get behind that. They always look like something that would come with a shitty tux rental.
     
  4. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Sinatra was known to wear solid orange ps with his tux, but I don't think it looked good even on him.
     
  5. Balfour

    Balfour Senior member

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    False reductio ad absurdum.
     
  6. Balfour

    Balfour Senior member

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    Sadly this is all probably doomed to failure, on the basis that the "it's all subjective, fvck you acridsheep" crowd will shower the thread with sh*t.

    Having said that:


    Agreed.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2013
  7. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    After reaching some consensus, are we going to provide some explanation for each?
     
    1 person likes this.
  8. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    sure, that would be ideal. Even links to old threads with explanations would be good
     
  9. JubeiSpiegel

    JubeiSpiegel Senior member

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    It is heresy to question, especially when the answer is to avoid looking like a waiter or other member of the service industry, the scourge of the planet so it seems... :confused:
     
  10. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Again, the point of the thread is not to browbeat people into following the SF rules. It's to document consensus and provide some explanation for it.
     
  11. emc894

    emc894 Senior member

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    Trousers/pants that are too short and show too much ankle/sock.

    I haven't been on SF much lately to see its opinion, but this combined with brightly colored socks seems to be everywhere in the city the past year or so. Its a really heavy handed attempt at insouciance that looks stupid.
     
  12. RogerP

    RogerP Senior member

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    This. Suit pants hemmed above the ankles and button-popping jacket closures make me go cross-eyed. Not sure these are CM crimes, though, or whatever the opposite of a crime is. I see plenty of it here.
     
  13. aravenel

    aravenel Senior member

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    Yeah... It looks terrible, but I don't know that it's serious enough to be included IMO.
     
  14. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Double monks. Unbuckled.

    Fun socks.

    Ankle flash.

    Flood pants.

    Peacock colors.
     
  15. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    ^All these are indeed in poor taste but they're so embedded in #menswear, and even in this forum, that I don't think they can make a list like this one.
     
  16. Pembers

    Pembers Senior member

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    These two are matters of opinion/culture. Walk around Piccadilly and you'll see plenty of well-tailored men in bright red socks and loud multi-stripe shirts, whose dress would be considered perfectly 'classic' within their context. I myself am not a fan of fun socks (although I like and wear the shirts...), but if this thread is an attempt to establish relatively hard and fast rules, they shouldn't qualify.

    American style has always been more subdued - doesn't mean that loudness is invariably wrong.

    Agree on the unbuckled monk thing though. No.1 on the list in my opinion should be too-high buttoning points: looks terrible, and something most people are apparently unaware of.
     
  17. GusW

    GusW Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Nothing wrong with peacock colors in the right context - a party, a casual reception, summer vacation, Easter brunch. But I will agree that there is a right way and a wrong way to wear colors, but those guidelines are far too detailed to summarize in a phrase.
     
    1 person likes this.
  18. cptjeff

    cptjeff Senior member

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    I'm hardly a noob, but black shirts with suits can be done correctly. As long as you maintain line and contrast, which means a suit light enough for them to contrast, and worn open necked. There are other non-suit or jacket looks where really dark shirts work, too. I have a couple striped purple ones I break out on occasion- one really dark, one closer to a maroon.

    If you put on a black (or other really dark) shirt and then reach for the tie rack, you are doomed.

    But it's very much an advanced move, and if you have to ask...


    Oh, and black suits have never been incorrect- the idea that there's a tradition that shuns them is pretty recently invented. See the mythbusting thread. Some people not liking them because they don't work with their skin tone does not make them a grave sartorial sin, it makes them a color like brown or olive that doesn't look good on everybody. I can't wear a tan jacket, but that doesn't make a khaki summer suit an evil that nobody else can wear.
     
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2013
  19. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Even in cases where you might think a darker shirt looks OK, I still think of it as not-for-the-office.
     
  20. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    If I read the opening post correctly, its offense against traditional menswear. And now you don't think these offenses cannot make a list because its so engrained in #menswear, despite your agreeing that they are poor taste.

    So are we promoting what's engrained in #menswear? Or we are promoting classic menswear? IMO there's significant difference between the two, i.e., flood pants vs no-break pants, short tight jackets vs. jackets that covers your ass, chest bouquet vs inconspicuous pocket squares, pointy gaudy painted shoes vs boston cracked shoes, etc.

    I agree and I love the style/peacocking of Labelking or Neofinita. But then there's always the peacock threak...
     

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