Semi-elegant waterproof winter coat or parka over a suit?

[TheLondoner]

What do you guys use/recommend as winter coat / parka to be worn over a suit/blazer? (I hope this is the right subforum as I intend to wear this over a suit, too).


It needn’t be black-tie, night-at-the-opera kind of smart, but I’m certainly looking for something smarter than a The North Face hiking jacket (which lots of Londoners wear over their suits, even if their blazers poke out from the bottom!).


Ideally I’d like it to be/have:

• Truly waterproof , with GoreTex or a similar membrane. I have tried lots of GoreTex alternatives and have never noticed any material differences, so I don’t really care which membrane as long as there is one; I did, however, notice that water-repellent garments without a proper membrane tend to wet out, so I want to avoid those.
• A waterproof hood, with no fur; it could be hidden in the collar or not, but it’s useful for those sudden rain pours.
• At least two internal pockets, ideally with a horizontal, not vertical zipper.
• Long enough to cover a blazer.
• Clean look (no Michelin man, or those tubular paddings typical of down jackets, visible externally.
• Any colour as long as it’s black.
• Lightweight, ca. 1 kg (2.2 lbs). Wool coats tend to be way way heavier than warmer parkas by the likes of Arcteryx/Patagonia.
• Insulated: temperatures for most of the winter here tend to range between 2C and 10C (35F -50F). In these conditions, I typically wear something with 100g/sqm of synthetic Primaloft insulation, so I’m looking for something comparable (don’t really care if down or synthetic). Please keep the 100g/sqm Primaloft in mind, not the temperature range, as temperature ratings are very, very, very subjective. Yes, I know some people wear uninsulated raincoats over a blazer when it’s 10C/50F, but not me.

Thoughts? The waterproof membrane is possibly the most limiting criterion.

UberFunction www.uberfunction.com is a Norwegian brand, founded by an ex-Helly Hansen guy, that does semi-formal technical coats and parkas. I have tried their Regulator Parka II in a store, but the black is a very light black, and the fit isn’t quite right for me (the L is very tight in the chest, while the XL is too long in the arms).

This Prada raincoat seems nice: https://store.prada.com/en/pradagb/SGH548-1CAH-F0002-S-172 The site doesn’t say, but the fabric seems a 3-layer laminate with GoreTex or some equivalent membrane. It has a hidden rainhood.

Norwegian Rain gear seems interesting, too; there’s a thread somewhere here. Not sure how heavy their coats are, though, and if they are as waterproof as something with GoreTex

The Italian Moorer makes a few nice parkas and coats; the Vermont-by seems very nice:

https://web.moorer.it/moorer/en/uomo_prodotto.php?idarticolo=476

https://www.theclutcher.com/en-US/product/88658/moorer/hooded_down_jacket

But they don’t seem to have stockists in the UK.

The Italian Fay www.fay.com and Peuterey www.peuterey.com makes nice stuff but I haven’t found anything in their catalogue that ticks my boxes.

Zegna make some very nice coats with some semi-eater-repellent merino (MerinoTech), but they’re not exactly waterproof.

Woolrich make two GoreTex parkas which are OK, but not as nice as those above.

Geox (the shoemaker) makes this waterproof parka: http://www.geox.com/en/men/clothing.../amphibiox-jacket-black-M7429BT2381F9000.html ; way cheaper than the others, but not as nice

Aether Apparel is a US brand I find interesting, but there are no retailers this side of the pond.

Any other ideas? Thanks!




PS Btw, I typically find it easier to assess the warmth of synthetic than of real down, because it’s way more common to find labels indicating if it’s Primaloft/Coreloft of whatever with 60 g/sqm , 100g/sqm, etc, whereas with down they typically tell you the fill power but not how much down there is (a 550-fill down jacket may be warmer than an 800-fill if the former contains way more down).

 

[TheLondoner]

PS I forgot to mention:

The Arcteryx Therme is OK, but the fit isn’t great, it has only one internal pocket with a vertical zip (which I hate), I don’t like the fit, and am afraid it might be too warm.


The Arcteryx Camosun seems a little better, but it has the same internal pocket, and doesn’t have a two-way zip (a big no-no).


The stuff in the Arcteryx Veilance range seems incredibly expensive for what it is – Prada or Moorer are cheaper and way, way, way (did I mention way?) nicer.


Boggi makes nice stuff, but it’s all in navy; I don’t like wearing a navy parka or jacket over black shoes and black or grey suits. Plus it’s not clear if their gear is GoreTex-like waterproof or not.

 

[Andy57]

Get a Burberry trenchcoat. They've remade what they call their "heritage" collection (which is to me just my actual Burberry). Get it with a liner and you have an elegant, timeless and quite warm overcoat. A Burberry is waterproof.

Less elegant, but completely waterproof is a Mackintosh. I think Cording's sells them and I'm sure they're available elsewhere.

 

[TheLondoner]

Are you sure about the Burberry being waterproof? AFAIK they don't have any real waterproof membrane, and that's a big deal for me, because I'd like to avoid finding myself soaked to the bone with sudden rainpours.
Also, when you say liner, do you mean bring my own thermal midlayer, or does Burberry make liners that can be zipped in? I'd rather avoid fiddling with non-fixed liners.

As for the Mackintosh, have you ever tested how breathable they are? I am afraid rubber is not the most breathable material, and I tend to sweat more than most; also, breathability is way more important in humid Europe than in drier climates.

 

[GBR]

I rather think that you exaggerate when saying that you are "soaked to the bone" with sudden downpours. A Burberry should be fine and carry a telescopic umbrella if you are really so worried.

 

[TheLondoner]

"Soaked to the bone" is of course a figure of speech. I have, however, had situations in the past where water-repellent rain jackets without a membrane, and even a two-layer GoreTex rain jacket, did wet out after about 20 minutes of sudden and protracted heavy rain. This is one of the reasons why I prefer 2.5 or 3-layer membranes ( http://specialtyoutdoors.com/demystifying-waterproof-breathable-fabrics/ ), at least in non-insulated jackets. By wet out I mean that the outer fabric was soaked, heavier, and my clothes underneath the jacket were damp; not soaked, but damp.

In the past I also had a wool coat and a cotton raincoat that had supposedly been treated with some kind of water-repellent thingy. Sure, they held rain better than ordinary wool or ordinary cotton, but, compared to a proper GoreTex garment, they did become heavier (especially the wool one) from soaking up some water, and the clothes underneath did end up feeling a bit damp.

Umbrella, you say? Well, one of the reasons for insisting on a waterproof membrane and a hood is precisely because there are many situations where I can't/don't want to/would much rather not carry one. E.g. when I am pushing a pushchair - hard to do while holding an umbrella! Or when rain was totally unanticipated. Or when I am queuing to get on a bus, and if I hold and close an umbrella all the people around me will be splashed with even more water. Etc. etc. etc.

I appreciate that not everyone feels the need for GoreTex or a similar membrane, but, as I said, I do.

 

[Andy57]

I have never gotten soaked to the bone wearing my Burberry. It is proofed and still sound after several decades.

My mistake, though. When you mentioned "semi-elegant" it clearly had a different meaning for me than it does for you. None of the examples you gave seem all that smart, let alone elegant. Bases on your response, utilitarian is what you are really seeking.

 

[TheLondoner]

Well, I gave examples of the style I am after precisely because these things are so subjective.

As far as I know there is probably not a single properly night-at-the-opera-type elegant coat with GoreTex or a similar membrane.

Btw, I still like the Prada Moorer or Norwegian Rain styles better than the Burberry, but, again, these things are so subjective, not trying to convince anyone.

Any suggestions?

 

[emptym]

This is a good question, or one I've been wondering about at least. I have a good trench coat, but I do sometimes prefer wearing a raincoat with a hood, even while in coat and tie.

Currently, I use this one from Ben Sherman, proxied by the ever-estimable @Cleav:

It's waterproof, with a bonded poplin like the more traditional Mackintosh coats. But as usual, I find myself wanting to tweak it. So someday, I'll probably ask Luxire to make me a ventile version.

In addition to the companies you've mentioned, Herno, Aspesi, and Borrelli make such parkas.

 

[Andy57]

It's waterproof, with a bonded poplin like the more traditional Mackintosh coats. But as usual, I find myself wanting to tweak it. So someday, I'll probably ask Luxire to make me a ventile version.

In addition to the companies you've mentioned, Herno, Aspesi, and Borrelli make such parkas.

Going MTM or bespoke is probably the best long-term solution. And using ventile is also a good idea. Have you looked at Grenfell @TheLondoner? While I wouldn't call their designs elegant, they have a bit more panache than some of your examples (in my opinion--I entirely accept your point about subjectivity).

 

[emptym]

Private White has a long, hooded ventile coat:
https://www.privatewhitevc.com/lighthouse-ventile-parka-jacket-030202040015-05d.html

It looks very military-surplus, which might also be something to consider. Or maybe Ten-C or Nigel Cabourn for something military-inspired. They aren't ideal for wear w/ coat and tie imo, but they would be practical.

Fjallraven has some that aren't as military in styling. Of course, LL Bean, Land's End, and Penfield do too. The latter is usually too short to cover a suit/sport coat, though.

Hilltrek and others make custom ventile parkas and would be worth looking into.

 

[Patrick R]

Off the rack, the Norwegian Rain single breasted is a great option. Not elegant, but very wearable in a business context.

 

[SuitedDx]

Nothing fancy but I wear TNF El Misti as a technical parka when I don’t use my Burberry trench or LP Storm System overcoat.

The El Misti has a hood, waterproof breathable membrane (not as good as Gore-Tex though), long enough to cover jackets, and has a drawstring waist to add contour. More practical than fancy on stormy days in NYC.

 

[TheLondoner]

TNF El Misti is not insulated - I am looking for something insulated.

Has anyone compared Ventile vs GoreTex? I'm just afraid Ventile will soak up water like a sponge. I appreciate most people don't feel the need for GoreTex in an urban setting but, as I explained, I do. Those Private White raincoats are not bad but they are not insulated, and I do wonder if they would perform any differently from almost identically-looking raincoats with a bit of DWR treatment, which can easily be found for a tenth of that price.

The thing with MTM or bespoke, apart from cost, is that AFAIK no one makes MTM or bespoke coats or parkas with a proper waterproof membrane. Hideout Leathers, near Cambridge, makes MTM textile motorcycle touring jackets with c-change, a waterproof membrane made by the Swiss Schoeller and also used by BMW in its jackets, but I'm not aware of any non-motorcycle MTM waterproof coat or parka.

Herno currently makes a GoreTex parka which IMHO looks horrible, but online I found two GoreTex coats which are slightly better; maybe previous season? They're the two pictures below.

 

[TheLondoner]

Off the rack, the Norwegian Rain single breasted is a great option. Not elegant, but very wearable in a business context.

Have you tried it? I was thinking of the single breasted or the Moscow.
The SB is not lined but you can zip a thermal vest. It's just a vest, though, so I guess the arms would stay cold ish.

The Moscow is fully insulated. I wonder if you can remove the furry collar but keep the hood. Arms aside, are the two roughly just as warm? How does warmth compare with something like 100g/sqm Primaloft?

Uberfunction.com is another Norwegian brand, and their "temperature ratings" are totally insane for someone as cold-blooded as me: basically I use 100g Primaloft when, according to their ratings, I should be using uninsulated jackets!