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Self Edge SF/NY/LA/PDX - Japanese Denim & More (Iron Heart, 3sixteen, Flat Head, Strike Gold...

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by LA Guy, Dec 22, 2006.

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  1. kiya

    kiya Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Many work shirts from over sixty years ago used to come with the chain stitched side seam still intact, so the buyer would cut them off or they would eventually fall off. It wasn't done on all shirts, very few shirts came like this, but the Japanese like this detail and include it on many shirts, which in turn now many American brands include the detail too.


    Fok,

    Those have been sold out for about five years now, they were a collaboration we did with Iron Heart.
    I suggest looking at the 30BSP from 3sixteen+:
    http://www.selfedge.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1017&search=30bsp
     
  2. jmaudi0

    jmaudi0 Senior member

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    can anyone comment on the differences between the 3sixteen 14.5oz line vs the 17oz denim? i have the shadow selvedge now which is 14.5oz and has been fading great and had a great feel right from the beginning. i plan on purchasing a new pair of 3sixteens this fall...just curious about the heavier weight fabric. will it really fade that much faster? does it actually feel that much heavier/thicker than the 14.5oz line? (those are the heaviest denim i've ever owned).

    any links to fade pics of the 14.5 vs 17 over time would be awesome as well. thanks!
     
  3. ajchen

    ajchen Senior member

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    The 17oz denim is a completely different animal. The fabric itself is stiffer, crunchier and has a more abrasive hand to it than the 14.5oz denim which has a tighter weave and is extremely soft on the inside. The 17oz denim will soften up a bit over time with wear but you'll never mistake one for the other. Since you have the shadow denim right now, I'd look into the 140x denim which has the brown fill yarn - this will yield faster fades since there will be more contrast between the warp and the weft as the jeans age. Below is a photo of my 11 month old jeans next to a new pair of 140x.

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    1 person likes this.
  4. jmaudi0

    jmaudi0 Senior member

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    can you elaborate on why the brown fill will result in faster fades? i would have thought the opposite....white interior / blue exterior seems more contrasty (new word???) than brown/blue.

    that pic looks great btw. i'm looking to get a pair of jeans that will fade into a more traditional lighter shade vs. the electric blue fading of the shadows.
     
    Last edited: Sep 2, 2014
  5. ajchen

    ajchen Senior member

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    As the warp yarn fades from indigo to dark blue to light blue to eventually grey/white, there's more contrast if the fill yarn is darker vs lighter, as opposed to light blue against traditional white fill yarns. That's why shadow jeans appear to fade more quickly than traditional blue jeans, because the black weft makes the fading warp yarns pop more.

    In fact if you want a more traditional fade, I would suggest the 130x (indigo x white) heavyweight denim:

    http://www.selfedge.com/index.php?route=product/search&search=130x

    The electric blues you mention are still visible on the 140x due to the brown weft. The 130x will yield the same fade color as a traditional blue jean but because of its crunchiness and abrasiveness, it fades more quickly than our 14.5oz 100x denim.
     
  6. rydenfan

    rydenfan Senior member

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    Wow, pretty amazing that was achieved in 11 months. can you elaborate on how often worn, # of washes, etc
     
  7. ajchen

    ajchen Senior member

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    I wore them 6 days a week for the 11 months - every now and then I rotated in an older pair of jeans but altogether that might have added up to 3 weeks. I machine washed them 4 times, so once every 2-3 months.
     
  8. Alcibiades

    Alcibiades Senior member

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    This is why my fading / wear looks so weak... I can wear denim 2.5 days a week at most (Friday afternoon/night, Saturday and Sunday). Maybe i'll slip into jeans on a weekday evening as well. In this case, what is the best solution for care? Simply never washing for a year?
     
    Last edited: Sep 2, 2014
  9. reallypeacedoff

    reallypeacedoff Senior member

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    Not washing for a year is a marketing gimmick (derived form Nudie as mainstream?).

    First two pictures show my SExI14. I washed them after 13 months for the first time (plus a couple since then for an overall wear of 15 months).

    The second two pictures of my SE05BSP after close to 8 months and have had 7 washes.

    I would go to say that the pair I have washed regularly will look better at 15 months. Yes, different denim etc but washing gets rid of the grime and dirt making your jeans look more faded.

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  10. Hirsh

    Hirsh Senior member

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    I agree..also dirt makes the denim wear out more quickly..:)
     
  11. kiya

    kiya Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Roy "All-Duck" Duck Jeans

    Never a dull moment with Roy Slaper. The man lives for finding excitement in the most minute details of a garment. With this new release he set out to made a 5-pocket jean out of an unsanforized duck canvas fabric. This is a similar material to what he's used in the past, this time the fabric is unsanforized and therefore will shrink like an unsanforized denim jean. You may wonder as to why would you want your duck canvas pant to be unsanforized? Because it will not only fit better but it will also age better over time because the fabric hasn't gone through the sanforization process which flattens and (in our opinion) destroys a lot of the character contained within the fabric.

    This new version of his duck pant is made entirely of unsanforized cotton duck fabric, even the pocket bags and back pocket linings are made of duck. These are cut in the Kinda Special fit which we think are his best fitting jean yet. It's between a slim and straight cut with some taper to the leg using a unsanforized cotton duck fabric woven by Cone's White Oak mill. The fabric has a good weight to it and feels a bit heavier than the measured weight.

    These will be available for sale at all Self Edge stores on Saturday September 6th at noon (local time) and at 9:30am (PDT) the same day via the online store.

    Shop Roy Online

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  12. rydenfan

    rydenfan Senior member

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    @kiya do you still expect the hangers to go up online soon?
     
  13. Skell6009

    Skell6009 Senior member

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    Just FYI, the hangers are $35 each.
     
  14. rydenfan

    rydenfan Senior member

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    I am aware. I am just waiting for them to go online so I can purchase some. Thanks
     
  15. kiya

    kiya Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    They should be going up online within the next week or so.
     
  16. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    @kiya - how about a recommendation for a mid-heavyweight jean (about 17 ounces, but between 16-19 is fine) with a fairly roomy seat but a taper to a bottom? For reference, I find that the Dry Bones collab is a big big in the waist, but mostly towards the back, and a bit too tight in the crotch. Otherwise, a good fit...
     
  17. kiya

    kiya Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    I've got two choices which are what you're looking for..
    This one is great, but only 15.5oz denim: http://www.selfedge.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1017
    This is one of my favorite jeans at the shop, and 18oz: http://www.selfedge.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=715
     
  18. Hirsh

    Hirsh Senior member

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    Great - I might need some too with my ever growing jeans collection!:)
     
  19. kiya

    kiya Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Self Edge x Globe Specs Cozumel Sunglasses

    With our first eyewear collaboration we've come together with Globe Specs to reproduce the exact pair of glasses which Hunter S. Thompson wore on his famed trip to Cozumel (Mexico).

    The Uno is the exact reproduction while the Dos and Tres are slightly modified with our take on the original frame. All the materials are made in Japan and custom produced just for this capsule collection. With titanium and hand-finished acetate used as the primary materials you're sure to have a sturdy pair of frames which will last you years. Each pair of glasses comes with an original artwork printed dust cloth and a branded carrying case.

    These are limited to 200 pairs total worldwide and are only availble at Self Edge and Globe Specs Tokyo.

    Shop Globe Specs

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  20. kiya

    kiya Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Mister Freedom's Okinawa CPO Shirt & The Sugar Cane 2014 Slim Tapered Jean

    We've got two new items from Toyo Enterprises today, both of which have been long overdue for us...

    Mister Freedom has done a new version of his legendary denim CPO shirt which originally came out as part of the Fall/Winter collection of 2008. This new version uses a different unsanforized denim and includes some very nice detailing on the placket and pockets. Once sold out these will not be restocked.

    Sugar Cane brings us their slimmest fit in their line-up with the new "2014" jean, made of a one-washed unsanforized denim which we've been selling on their "2009" jean for a few years. This fabric starts off comfortable from day one and ages well over time due to it's unsanforized nature and pure indigo-dyed warp yarns.

    Shop Mister Freedom Online

    Shop Sugar Cane Online

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