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Seeking SF Wisdom to Refine Custom Shirts

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by jeg, Sep 13, 2012.

  1. jeg

    jeg Member

    Feb 24, 2008
    I'm looking to refresh my shirt collection, so I wanted to appeal to the collective experience of this board when it comes to designing my next shirts. A couple of things to mention (apologies for the bullets - I spend most of my work in PowerPoint).

    • I am 5'10" and 160lbs; I'm a cyclist, so my upper body is pretty slim. I'm a 38 in a suit.
    • I've gotten my shirts from Jantzen (about a dozen) and have been very satisfied given the price; I plan to order my next shirts from them as well.
    • I have a long neck, which hopefully you can see in the photos below
    • I like the collar to sit just under the lapel
    • I usually go for a full windsor given the spread of the collar I have been wearing.
    • I prefer a woven fabric tie over printed (a la Ferragamo)
    I'd like to get your advice on a couple of questions. I have posted below photos of two shirts - the one with the blue tie is from my most recent Jantzen order (I took it after I got home for the work - sorry for all the wrinkles), and the one without a tie is one I picked up in Italy made by Shirt Factory Company or SFC (never could find anything about them) and labeled as "slim fit."

    • Fit of the body - how slim do you recommend? I am inclined to go for a slimmer fit, closer to that of the second shirt, which is about 3" larger around the waist than I am, versus the Jantzen, which is about 5". And is there any way to keep the shirt from pooching out at the waist when tucked into pants?
    • Back darts (on the SFC shirt) or no back darts?
    • Fit of the arms - how slim should I go? The SFC has a much smaller arm hole and the sleeves are similarly tapered.
    • What is the opinion of the spread on the Jantzen collar? More? Less? Just right?
    • I can never seem to get my tie and collar to sit quite right. I gave a double-button collar, but there is always a gap, and sometimes the collar will even roll forward a bit. Also, the tie never sits right at the top of the collar - it always comes down a little bit. How can I prevent that gap from appearing (I order the collars without a tie space), and get the tie to sit right? An example of the tie sitting higher is here from another member: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v178/gdl203/IMG00217-20111117-0945.jpg.
    • Any other fit or design recommendations?
    Thanks in advance to all who take the time to read and reply. Jon Apologies for the sub-par photography. Jantzen shirt [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG] SFC shirt [​IMG][​IMG]
  2. Apollotrader

    Apollotrader Senior member

    Jul 8, 2012
    Paradise Valley, AZ
    The collar problem with tie space is one I had before. When you order shirts next time tell them zero tie space, you want the collar to actually meet when buttoned. I feel like your size and shape would benefit from a collar that is not so spread and ties that are not quite as wide. I think it is pretty clear in your pictures that you are a tad out of proportion. I know there are mixed thoughts on darts, I have asked the question myself. I personally will not tolerate custom shirts with darts. The bunching you describe is simply because the shirts are not fit correctly. Lastly I think experimenting with a four in hand knot is a decent idea to work on the proportion issue I mentioned.

    The Jantzen is OK, just tell them to sharpen up your body fit especially on the lower portion of the shirt.


  3. Apollotrader

    Apollotrader Senior member

    Jul 8, 2012
    Paradise Valley, AZ
    I also think you are being too critical on the neck issue, had you not said anything it would not have come to mind at all from the photos. The two button collar could also be contributing to the tie sitting too low because it actually has too much vertical space. It takes a little hit and miss with shirt makers to find the one that works for you. Its not a bad idea to consider giving another vendor a try and telling them about the shortcomings of the Jantzen fit.

    I hope this helps.
  4. Zac Duncan

    Zac Duncan Well-Known Member

    Sep 6, 2012
    i think a slimmer shirt looks better on you,
    tailor a slim cut shirt if you feel comfortable, it can also reduce the amount of shirt fabric pooching out
    for the Jantzen collar, the spread is ok, but i agreed that two button collar is a problem for the tie sitting
  5. mensimageconsultant

    mensimageconsultant Senior member

    Mar 15, 2006
    Don't go slim if the shirt sometimes will be worn without a jacket. Volume up top balances out the bottom. By the way, the pants are too tight in probably the seat and the thighs, and they should be worn closer to the waist.

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