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Searching the right shirt around London

ike_hiking_boots

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I wear Margaret Howell Mainline Shirts - they are hand-made at their London Factory, quality fabrics and feature mother of Pearl Buttons but I don't think the style is what you're looking for as they're not really formal although I would recommend you still take a look, their store is on Wigmore Street.

Anyway, the shirtmaker that came immediately to mind whilst I was reading your OP is Emma Willis - their store is on Jermyn Street. You could also try Budd Shirtmakers which is close by.
 

comrade

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Did anyone mention Hilditch & Key? Probably too full a cut for you,
but decent+ quality for the price especially during their just-ended
semi annual sale. The late Karl Lagerfeld got his shirts from the H &K
bespoke dept, so they clearly can make almost any style.

Another place worth a look is Cordings in Picadilly. They specialize
in "country wear". Their shirts are a bargain for the decent quality,
but tent-like even for top heavy people like me. However, altering
shirts is a low cost alternative that I've successfully used.

https://www.cordings.co.uk/menswear/shirts/where/fabric/cotton
 
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lexxdeleon

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I would recommend checking out Suitsupply's MTM shirt offerings. While mainly known for their suiting, their MTM shirts are a good value starting at $159 USD and at $199 USD you can get Thomas Mason fabrics. They've got plenty of collar style options at different collar heights too. Mother of pearl buttons are standard and design/customization options are plentiful.

I believe they are one of the few MTM shirt programs that offer the ability to adjust shoulder slope independently from one another and they take actual measurements for.

For only $39 USD more, they offer their shirts handmade/hand stitched. Best value out there for a handmade MTM shirt if I'm not mistaken.

Just be aware that they can't adjust for forward shoulders, unfortunately.

Disclaimer: I'm a MTM specialist for Susu.
 

comrade

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"Did Lagerfeld use H&K Paris for bespoke? I think that is a different operation, no?" @RJman ?

Yes, he did. I am sure that it is a different operation, but my guess
is that the company culture covers both.
 

eddiegreen

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Slowear Glanshirt sounds right for you, great cuts. The Margaret Howell mainline is a good shout too
 

RJman

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"Did Lagerfeld use H&K Paris for bespoke? I think that is a different operation, no?" @RJman ?

Yes, he did. I am sure that it is a different operation, but my guess
is that the company culture covers both.
yes. In his honor am wearing a H&K Paris bespoke shirt and a H&K Paris tie today. Even today you have two custom options at the Paris shop - a lower price for the British custom option and a higher price for the French bespoke. For a long time they had their own cutter and makers in Paris; now they use a subcontractor. The old shirt I'm wearing is quite cool, there are pics on my tumblr - three-hole shanked buttons in thick MOP, handsewn buttonholes, those little silly loops under the collar for a tie, and extraordinarily long tails to stay tucked.

I cannot imagine someone getting the same kind of crazy designs made up by the H&K London shop... although to be fair I'm pretty sure Lagerfeld kept the Paris shop in business; rumor was that he had them make the prototype shirts for the Chanel runway shows (makes sense bc Chanel had its own custom shoemaker (Massaro), hatter (Michel) and other makers for other prototypes but no shirtmaker).


EDIT: seems like OP was asking about RTW shirts. H&K RTW's changed over the last few years - new management moved manufacturing back to Britain but changed the cut and raised prices (same management brought in David Gale), a year later they moved manufacturing to Italy for the RTW. My old H&K RTW is mostly holding up, some after almost 20 years. Haven't tried the new stuff and probably never will.
 
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Braid

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I am in a similar situation as the OP, after years of medium quality shirts I want to try something a little better.

I am trying MTM for the first time, I ordered 2 button down shirts on Lanieri website. Since I live in London I took the measures myself, the website is really well made and it was quite easy and quick to order a shirt with my specifications.

I received the first one (they will deliver the second one only after receiving a feedback on the first one) and I am very pleased with the quality of the shirt, the fabric feels very good, the mop buttons are a nice touch, seams are neat and the pattern matching is quite impressive.

The fit overall is very good but I believe it could be improved. I attach some pictures for reference. I asked them if it is possible to shorten the length of the sleeves, increase a bit the chest size and reduce the width at the hip.

I also noticed a little defect on the fabric (chest area), it is small but unfortunately quite visible. I really hope Lanieri can fix this as well.

What do you think of the fit and quality overall? IMG_20190308_101223.jpg 5.jpg 7.jpg 8.jpg 10.jpg 11.jpg 2.jpg
 

Aloysius16

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That looks pretty good. The tall collar suits your long neck and square shoulders. I agree you need to make the chest bigger and the sleeves a little shorter (although remember the wash the shirt a couple of times to check shrinkage before comfirming changes). You may need slightly larger armholes too. I would suggest not reducing the hip as you might find it causes the shirt to ride up.
 

dieworkwear

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Sleeves should be long enough so that, when you raise your arms and have your hand in front of you, the cuff stays still and doesn't ride up. So long as it does that, I think it's fine. Right shirt cuff looks like it falls down a little further than it should, but I imagine this would be fixed if you were wearing a watch (if you don't wear a watch, maybe tighten the cuff a little on that sleeve).

The main issue I see is that the shoulder slope on the shirt doesn't match your body's natural shoulder slope. Looks like the shirt has slightly squarer shoulders than your actual body. Sometimes it can be hard to correct this in MTM, depending on the factory they're working with.

Personally, I think the most important parts of the shirt look good. I think guys look better with a coat on anyway, so those issues with the shoulder are mostly hidden. The chest, collar, and waist all look good once you have a coat on.

If you plan on wearing a tie with that shirt, I would keep it as is. If it were me, and I wasn't planning to wear a tie with that shirt, I would lower the second button just a little so that the shirt gives a better-looking neck line when the top button is unfastened.
 

Braid

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After discussing with Lanieri the fit and the little issue in the fabric they proposed to re-do the shirt from scratch (at no additional cost) with the proposed changes:

- Chest: + 2 cm
- Sleeves lenght: -2 cm
- waist: -5 cm
- shoulders: -2 cm

I am very please with the service and quality provided with now, I hope with these changes to reach a near-perfect fit, finger crossed.
 

Nat Jag

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I had a shirt from Lanieri, was quite pleased with it. I will be ordering another.

Also suggested on here was Apposta. I have an appointment at the London offices next week.

@Evergreen88 what did you do in the end?
 

Evergreen88

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I had a shirt from Lanieri, was quite pleased with it. I will be ordering another.

Also suggested on here was Apposta. I have an appointment at the London offices next week.

@Evergreen88 what did you do in the end?

Hi Nat, I got a shirt from Lanieri and I am very pleased with the quality at the price I paid.

I am thinking of ordering a few more, unfortunately they don't have much choice of fabrics.

I looked into Apposta and they have a wide selection, do they have stores in London?

download_20190401_132902.jpg
 

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