Schubert Custom: bespoke and MTM

[seok]

(copied from AA temporary forum) I've come across a surprisingly competent shoemaker while traveling here in Asia--I'm on a sabbatical from NYC--and am hoping this will be the next Jantzen. One customer's last. I saw some photos that customers brought in to be copied--spotted some that resemble the EG Inverness, Grenson Stowe in the sea of more "fashion-forward" designs. A sample. Production of the shoes is a one-man and an assistant operation--the work is done by hands. I've been wearing my first pair from the shoemaker--a brown calf closed-toe--for about 2 months, and impressed with the fit, have been talking to the shoemaker about having his services available to overseas customers. We're thinking about getting a self-measurement form and starting by accepting a small number of orders. The forum really got my interest in clothing started, and I'd welcome you guys' comments.

 

[seok]

tiger02
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Posted - 02/27/2006 : 04:58:02
Tempting, but for all the issues with self-measurement for shirts, you're going to have tenfold problems with feet. Rough math suggests his shoes would have to run about $200 or less to be worth the difficulties. Where does he source his leather?

Tom
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seok
\t
Posted - 02/27/2006 : 05:10:16
Thanks Tom. I'm working on a self-measurement form that consists of steps taken in-house. Done with a measuring tape, I estimate that the measurement process will take about 5 minutes for someone trying it out first time.

Pricing should be around $215, though I still need to finalize with the shoemaker.
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jasstoltz
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Posted - 02/27/2006 : 11:44:33 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Current pics don't look all that great, the leather in particular. But then again, many of the "latest shirt style" on Jantzen are scary.

I would be reluctant to order in the first wave, but if there are satisfied customers, the price sounds about right for something fun. Also, if you are willing to act as a go between (not sure of the maker's proficiency with English or e-mail), I'm sure that might help. I'll keep an eye on this thread...
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seok
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Posted - 02/28/2006 : 08:47:00 Show Profile Email Poster Edit Reply
Order form for Schubert Custom Shoes is now up. [EDIT: URL] http://www.savefile.com/files/1520003 (You need to click on the free download option then choose from a few available servers. I'm looking for a good file hosting option...any recs?)

Free shipping for order of 2 pairs or more, and I will forward $15 per shoes towards a separate pocket of SF restoration fund through March. Paypal only for now.

To my knowledge, the shoes are goodyear welted and have channeled soles, leather is full grain calfskin. The SF guides on shoes helped me out a lot on this regard.

jass, actually the shoes above are not made of calfskin, but normal leather. all the orders will be made of calfskin.

I trust that serving some of the toughest customers first (i.e. SF members) will give us good experience going fwd. I thank you guys in advance for participating in this trial period.
Edited by - seok on 03/09/2006 23:16:04
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sgl23
Posted - 02/28/2006 : 09:30:30 Show Profile Email Poster Reply with Quote
I've ordered three pairs. . . Can't wait to see them-if they are as well-made as they appear in the photos, I'll give up Tods and Ferragamo for good.
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jasstoltz

Seok, can you post more pictures of shoes they have made? If you can't get more pictures from the shop, perhaps more pictures of your shoes? Also, can you tell us a little more about your experiences in ordering?
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Long Way of Drums
Posted - 02/28/2006 : 10:23:16 Show Profile Email Poster Reply with Quote
Do they take requests for custom designs?

"Und wenn du lange in einen Abgrund blickst, blickt der Abgrund auch in dich hinein."

"Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take a boat in the air you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of worlds. Love keeps her in the air when she oughtta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keels. Makes her home."

We will not walk in fear, one of another.
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emorel98

Posted - 02/28/2006 : 13:02:27

quote:Originally posted by sgl23

I've ordered three pairs. . . Can't wait to see them-if they are as well-made as they appear in the photos, I'll give up Tods and Ferragamo for good.

Three pairs?? That's ballsy given the inherent problems with self measuring anything and buying sight unseen on the net. I'll go in for a pair and see what the results are and then go from there. I'd love to see some pics and and your thoughts when you get your shoes.
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[tiger02]

Originally Posted by seok

A sample.
Seok, one thing that's been bugging me, but couldn't put my finger on until now. Do all of his shoes have soles that extend this far out past the welt? If it's an option, I'd like to get them trimmed closer.

Tom

 

[seok]

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seok
jass, i emailed my folks to see if they dig up a photo and here it is. this is after about 2mo. of heavy wear without good care during my travel.

as to my order experience, i've never had shoes that fit me better (my feet are sized slightly differently, and B-C width is harder to come by on ebay/VCH/etc.) and there was no delay whatsoever.
quote:Originally posted by jasstoltz

Seok, can you post more pictures of shoes they have made? If you can't get more pictures from the shop, perhaps more pictures of your shoes? Also, can you tell us a little more about your experiences in ordering?

Edited by - seok on 02/28/2006 16:05:19
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seok

Posted - 02/28/2006 : 15:06:16 Show Profile Email Poster Edit Reply Reply with Quote Delete Reply
Yes, we do take custom requests, just attach a photo.

quote:Originally posted by Long Way of Drums

Do they take requests for custom designs?


"Und wenn du lange in einen Abgrund blickst, blickt der Abgrund auch in dich hinein."

"Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take a boat in the air you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of worlds. Love keeps her in the air when she oughtta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keels. Makes her home."

We will not walk in fear, one of another.

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nerdykarim
Posted - 02/28/2006 : 18:22:59 Show Profile Email Poster Reply with Quote

quote:Originally posted by seok

Just finalized on a lower price for the first few customers. $150 and $170 (boots) instead of $215 and $235, for orders completed by March 7 EST. sgl23, i'll credit your Paypal with the difference.

man, that's ridiculously tempting. i might have to go in for two pairs for the free shipping. is the price for "custom" shoes (like ones that the buyer submits a picture for) the same as the shoe/boot price?

(those kiton shoe Appreciation threads might come in handy!)
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Long Way of Drums

108 Posts
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Posted - 02/28/2006 : 18:34:18 Show Profile Email Poster Reply with Quote
I was about to ask the same question. Also, what materials are available? For example, if I want a mid calf height boot with a leather lower vamp and a waxed canvas calf (with leather lining), is that possible? Are more exotic materials available, like cordovan (either now, or in the future when e/mail order is more firmly established)?


"Und wenn du lange in einen Abgrund blickst, blickt der Abgrund auch in dich hinein."

"Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take a boat in the air you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of worlds. Love keeps her in the air when she oughtta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keels. Makes her home."

We will not walk in fear, one of another.
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Don Goldstein

USA
32 Posts
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Posted - 02/28/2006 : 20:07:24 Show Profile Email Poster Reply with Quote
May I suggest you post detailed instructions on taking the measurements?
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seok

41 Posts
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Posted - 02/28/2006 : 21:09:44 Show Profile Email Poster Edit Reply Reply with Quote Delete Reply
(1) Until Mar7, MTM and the photo-based custom shoes will carry the same price. Custom will be more expensive than MTM in the future.

(2) Material: only material available right now is calfskin. There'll likely be more availability in the future, but the mantra now is to keep it simple. I'll try to get more details on calfskin colors and post here.

(3) Some additional instructions:
i. Place foot on the printed order form
ii. Trace w/dark pen. Keep pen at an upright angle. For example, don't change the angel to trace underneath your heels.
iii. Take flat measurements, such as length, as noted
iv. Take 2 measurements >around< your foot where noted. If unsure whether measured at the right points, mark which points of your ft you measured around.
v. Repeat w/other foot
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tiger02

Germany
296 Posts
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Posted - 02/28/2006 : 22:12:57 Show Profile Email Poster Reply with Quote
Seok, what's the turnaround? I'd like to give them a try but won't be back to civilization for a couple of months at least. Worst comes to worst I'll order one or two to get sent to Kuwait. Be a nice morale boost anyway

Tom
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SGladwell

58 Posts
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Posted - 02/28/2006 : 22:42:27 Show Profile Reply with Quote

quote:Originally posted by seok

Yes, we do take custom requests, just attach a photo.



Would that include double monkstraps?
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seok

41 Posts
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Posted - 02/28/2006 : 23:37:43 Show Profile Email Poster Edit Reply Reply with Quote Delete Reply
Yes.

quote:Originally posted by SGladwell

quote:Originally posted by seok

Yes, we do take custom requests, just attach a photo.



Would that include double monkstraps?

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seok

41 Posts
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Posted - 02/28/2006 : 23:41:21 Show Profile Email Poster Edit Reply Reply with Quote Delete Reply
When the order form comes in and payment clears, the shoemaking process takes 4 weeks. Then I'll ship it via EMS that should arrive globally within 1-1.5 weeks.

quote:Originally posted by tiger02

Seok, what's the turnaround? I'd like to give them a try but won't be back to civilization for a couple of months at least. Worst comes to worst I'll order one or two to get sent to Kuwait. Be a nice morale boost anyway

Tom

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tiger02

Germany
296 Posts
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Posted - 03/01/2006 : 04:46:44 Show Profile Email Poster Reply with Quote
OK, screw it, I'm going to order two pairs and solve my casual boot fitting problem. A couple of more questions...the pictures that are embedded in the order form look like imageshack thumbnails. Do you have links to the larger pics, or can you post them here? Are all those shoes made by your guy? H, in particular, looks pretty nifty. Also I'll echo the call for pictures of the leathers available. Can he do a bevelled waist?

Sorry about all the questions but I think the group will benefit by the enswers.

Tom
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lovethoseshoes

USA
2 Posts
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Posted - 03/01/2006 : 06:29:29 Show Profile Email Poster Reply with Quote
How can anyone possibly make a custom shoe for $150?
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tiger02

Germany
296 Posts
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Posted - 03/01/2006 : 07:03:57 Show Profile Email Poster Reply with Quote

quote:Originally posted by lovethoseshoes

How can anyone possibly make a custom shoe for $150?


Slave labor


(please tell me someone else remembers the beginning of Jantzen-awareness...)
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[seok]

briancl

3 Posts
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Posted - 03/01/2006 : 08:15:59 Show Profile Email Poster Reply with Quote
i think im going to give this a shot..

these are the shoes im going to have him try to replicate.. more or less exactly.. color and all.

http://www.yoox.com/item/tskay/3FD17.../N/PRADA/Laced shoes
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seok

41 Posts
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Posted - 03/01/2006 : 08:32:54 Show Profile Email Poster Edit Reply Reply with Quote Delete Reply
Tom, the pics are from the shoes blog as mentioned on the order form. The shoemaker doesn't keep anything in stock and his samples are not calfskin since he's very cost conscious.

I won't be able to get the pictures of the leathers available for a couple weeks, it's pretty hectic for the time being, but I suspect that we'll have photos of the finished work by forum members here with detailed commentary soon.

I'll be out of town for Mar7-13 so the earlier you get in the order, the easier I'll be able to process them before my trip. Mar5 submission would guarantee that I can pass on the orders to the shoemaker right away. Otherwise, I will process soon after I get back.

quote:Originally posted by tiger02

OK, screw it, I'm going to order two pairs and solve my casual boot fitting problem. A couple of more questions...the pictures that are embedded in the order form look like imageshack thumbnails. Do you have links to the larger pics, or can you post them here? Are all those shoes made by your guy? H, in particular, looks pretty nifty. Also I'll echo the call for pictures of the leathers available. Can he do a bevelled waist?

Sorry about all the questions but I think the group will benefit by the enswers.

Tom

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emorel98

USA
91 Posts
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Posted - 03/01/2006 : 08:44:09 Show Profile Email Poster Reply with Quote

quote:Originally posted by seok

Tom, the pics are from the shoes blog as mentioned on the order form. The shoemaker doesn't keep anything in stock and his samples are not calfskin since he's very cost conscious.

I won't be able to get the pictures of the leathers available for a couple weeks, it's pretty hectic for the time being, but I suspect that we'll have photos of the finished work by forum members here with detailed commentary soon.

I'll be out of town for Mar7-13 so the earlier you get in the order, the easier I'll be able to process them before my trip. Mar5 submission would guarantee that I can pass on the orders to the shoemaker right away. Otherwise, I will process soon after I get back.

quote:Originally posted by tiger02

OK, screw it, I'm going to order two pairs and solve my casual boot fitting problem. A couple of more questions...the pictures that are embedded in the order form look like imageshack thumbnails. Do you have links to the larger pics, or can you post them here? Are all those shoes made by your guy? H, in particular, looks pretty nifty. Also I'll echo the call for pictures of the leathers available. Can he do a bevelled waist?

Sorry about all the questions but I think the group will benefit by the enswers.

Tom




Alright, I'm in for two given the new price. Should we email you any specifics we want,i.e. bevelled waist. Also, what do you consider a "tight fit" on your form. Would that be a E width (British) or tighter? and is the "medium" an F width (US D Width?)
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seok

41 Posts
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Posted - 03/01/2006 : 09:41:52 Show Profile Email Poster Edit Reply Reply with Quote Delete Reply
emorel, yes you can make additional comments on the email.

the "tight fit" has nothing to do with your width measurement, but rather is about your preference. some people prefer their shoes to hug their feet tightly and stretch in time. some people would prefer a little breathing room in their shoes. this will be taken into consideration when sizing up the leather, though the physical difference between a "tight fit" and a "loose fit" will be very small.

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Alright, I'm in for two given the new price. Should we email you any specifics we want,i.e. bevelled waist. Also, what do you consider a "tight fit" on your form. Would that be a E width (British) or tighter? and is the "medium" an F width (US D Width?)
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briancl

3 Posts
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Posted - 03/02/2006 : 08:49:08 Show Profile Email Poster Reply with Quote
i just submit my order for 1 pair. seok, if all looks well with my forms and attachments, i will send over the payment.
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seok

41 Posts
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Posted - 03/02/2006 : 17:39:06 Show Profile Email Poster Edit Reply Reply with Quote Delete Reply
thank briancl. payment and order received.
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JSK

57 Posts
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Posted - 03/03/2006 : 00:22:00 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Can he do penny loafers?
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seok

41 Posts
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Posted - 03/04/2006 : 08:06:42 Show Profile Email Poster Edit Reply Reply with Quote Delete Reply
yes, he'll do penny loafers
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freakseam

USA
279 Posts
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Posted - 03/04/2006 : 08:57:57 Show Profile Email Poster Reply with Quote
The pics embedded in the order form suggest some nice possibilities. However, I was unable to find mention of a shoes blog. So, are those embedded pics in fact your man's work or are they functioning as stylistic guides?


re: Tom, the pics are from the shoes blog as mentioned on the order form. The shoemaker doesn't keep anything in stock and his samples are not calfskin since he's very cost conscious.
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seok

41 Posts
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Posted - 03/05/2006 : 21:00:56 Show Profile Email Poster Edit Reply Reply with Quote Delete Reply
freakseam, the pics are acting as stylistic guide. i'll make the correction as soon as i get a chance.
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[seok]

Tomasso

USA
1216 Posts
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Posted - 03/07/2006 : 00:33:43 Show Profile Email Poster Reply with Quote
This sounds too good to be true.
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tiger02

Germany
296 Posts
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Posted - 03/07/2006 : 03:02:21 Show Profile Email Poster Reply with Quote

quote:Originally posted by Tomasso

This sounds too good to be true.


Doesn't it though? But if you check his prices, they're the shoe equivalent to Jantzen, vice more well known brands. Seok assessed the leather quality to be on par with Grensons Masterpieces, which I believe is on par with C&J Handgrade. If that's even half correct, I'll be happy at that price.

Tom
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seok

41 Posts
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Posted - 03/07/2006 : 04:48:55 Show Profile Email Poster Edit Reply Reply with Quote Delete Reply
Hi Tomasso, I just spent hours today processing orders and relaying...

The downside with the product is (1) the hassle of self-measurement. I've worked with a few members here to get a more appropriate measurement after I saw their tracing. Even though appropriate self-measurement ought to result in shoes that fit perfectly, I do suspect that we will have slightly imperfect fits just by probability. (2) leather isn't Kiton, EG, or Lobb level. I'd say Grenson MP to AE level, but you'll get some comments here after a month or 5 weeks (including shipping time).

The upside is that from your first order, you will have (1) a last made out of your measurements, which you can improve the fit upon each order. And (2) the price, for the experience of having custom shoes made this is a breakthrough in terms of what we've seen on SF/AAAC.
Edited by - seok on 03/07/2006 04:50:02
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freakseam

USA
279 Posts
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Posted - 03/07/2006 : 09:43:44 Show Profile Email Poster Reply with Quote

quote:Originally posted by seokThe downside with the product is (1) the hassle of self-measurement. I've worked with a few members here to get a more appropriate measurement after I saw their tracing.



So you're saying that some AAAC members' artistic skills could stand improvement.

What modifications, additional questions, etc. were added to the process in order to assess a more appropriate measurement?

quote:Even though appropriate self-measurement ought to result in shoes that fit perfectly, I do suspect that we will have slightly imperfect fits just by probability. (2) leather isn't Kiton, EG, or Lobb level. I'd say Grenson MP to AE level, but you'll get some comments here after a month or 5 weeks (including shipping time).



Is it fair to expect that, in the case of copying a shoe style from a submitted photograph, leather hue, antiquing, brogueing, and other details will match?
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seok

41 Posts
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Posted - 03/07/2006 : 15:00:39 Show Profile Email Poster Edit Reply Reply with Quote Delete Reply
Thanks guys.

To postscript the order form...(1) Keeping pen at 90 degree is ideal. (2) Keeping in mind the ball of the foot is the widest point of the foot on the upper part helps. (3) Instep should measure the highest point of the foot. Both (2) and (3) are measurement around the foot, as opposed to across.

For now, we're replicating the styles sans antiquing and the leather hue may not match perfectly, esp keeping in mind photos don't do a perfect job showing them. Broguing yes, other details yes. (e.g. double sole, sole protruding out/not)
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Long Way of Drums

108 Posts
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Posted - 03/07/2006 : 15:15:45 Show Profile Email Poster Reply with Quote

quote:Originally posted by Tomasso

This sounds too good to be true.


People said that about Jantzen and Baron. Doesn't mean this isn't. Doesn't mean it is, either.

seok: so, basically, if we're interested in shoes with very detailed antiquing or other finishes, it would be better to wait until preliminary orders have run through and the service is more established?


"Und wenn du lange in einen Abgrund blickst, blickt der Abgrund auch in dich hinein."

"Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take a boat in the air you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of worlds. Love keeps her in the air when she oughtta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keels. Makes her home."

We will not walk in fear, one of another.
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seok

41 Posts
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Posted - 03/07/2006 : 15:33:49 Show Profile Email Poster Edit Reply Reply with Quote Delete Reply
Long Way: I think if you want the best results on antiquing, probably best to give us an order with the base color and do the anqiquing stateside. In terms of other detailing, we should be able to handle...give us a try!
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Earthmover

USA
203 Posts
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Posted - 03/07/2006 : 15:36:43 Show Profile Email Poster Reply with Quote
On a note related to antiquing, is it possible to get undyed leather? That may actually be a fun experiment.
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seok

41 Posts
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Posted - 03/07/2006 : 15:57:01 Show Profile Email Poster Edit Reply Reply with Quote Delete Reply
Good point mate, I will check on that...on the road and won't be back for 5 days though.
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denimonio

USA
1 Posts
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Posted - 03/09/2006 : 08:58:17 Show Profile Email Poster Send denimonio an AOL message Send denimonio a Yahoo! Message Reply with Quote


so how many of us took the plunge so far and what kind of eta are we looking at?
~5 weeks still?
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fuuma

14 Posts
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Posted - 03/09/2006 : 09:05:23 Show Profile Email Poster Reply with Quote
I ordered 2 pairs, still in the process of making sure everything is allright. BTW Seok is a pleasure to work with.

L'histoire est seulement amère à ceux qui l'attendent sucrÃ

e
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jasstoltz

USA
443 Posts
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Posted - 03/09/2006 : 09:46:59 Show Profile Reply with Quote
I haven't ordered. Though Seok has been a member for a while here and SF, I'm just too skeptical of the quality and delivery here. I would like to see many more detailed, up close photographs of shoes from Schubert before ordering. Perhaps once you guys receive yours I'll go for it. Jantzen was well-established here before I placed my first order.

One pointer for those who have, are thinking about ordering: you can keep the pen at 90 degrees by taping it to the spine of a book (or similar).
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seok

41 Posts
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Posted - 03/09/2006 : 22:05:24 Show Profile Email Poster Edit Reply Reply with Quote Delete Reply
(1) Two things that came to my attention--no wholecuts and chelsea boots offered.

Some kind of a machine that's required in order to make a one-piece leather deal work out. anyone know what this is?

(2) The shoemaker was contemplating importing higher quality leather (also, from Europe) which would push the price from $215 to $300. I wondered what the interest level was like here. Also calfskin, just simply higher quality. I'm trying to push him to import...
Edited by - seok on 03/09/2006 22:31:03
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seok

41 Posts
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Posted - 03/09/2006 : 22:58:57 Show Profile Email Poster Edit Reply Reply with Quote Delete Reply
Blog with information created. Location: http://schubertcustom.blogspot.com/
Edited by - seok on 03/10/2006 00:25:53
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SomeGuyinCA

4 Posts
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Posted - 03/10/2006 : 02:23:50 Show Profile Email Poster Reply with Quote
Dang, i was gonna order a pair of chelsea boots. I guess its a good thing i procrastinated too long.

Im bad at shoe terms, but what exactly is a wholecut? one piece of leather for the shoe?

Perhaps a pair of these are reproducible? http://img223.imageshack.us/img_view..._richard-1.jpg
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seok

41 Posts
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Posted - 03/10/2006 : 03:16:45 Show Profile Email Poster Edit Reply Reply with Quote Delete Reply
I'll check on that when I'm back from traveling.

Wholecut would be one piece of leather for the shoe, yes

Good deductive skills

 

[seok]

Hi Tom, the protruding soles do seem to be the house style, but they can be trimmed closer. I'll relay your request.

Also for others' information, the sample pic above is made of normal leather, not calfskin.

Originally Posted by tiger02

Seok, one thing that's been bugging me, but couldn't put my finger on until now. Do all of his shoes have soles that extend this far out past the welt? If it's an option, I'd like to get them trimmed closer.

Tom

 

[seok]

To summarize:
> Shoemaker found, started taking overseas customers via Internet
> Introductory specials run
> Orders in, lasts being made
> Italian calfskin just in

Burgundy colored Italian calfskin is in, and it looks gorgeous. Supply is limited, but if you're interested, let me know--this is the calfskin I'm most proud to present. It most resembles the following pair of Santonis, including the light antiquing effect:

 

[seok]

7 pairs were sold during the specials period--as i've pledged $15 per pair to go towards SF, so that comes out to a humble $105...not sure what the best use for the donation is, but the money has SF's name written on it...

 

[edmorel]

Originally Posted by seok

To summarize:
> Shoemaker found, started taking overseas customers via Internet
> Introductory specials run
> Orders in, lasts being made
> Italian calfskin just in

Burgundy colored Italian calfskin is in, and it looks gorgeous. Supply is limited, but if you're interested, let me know--this is the calfskin I'm most proud to present. It most resembles the following pair of Santonis, including the light antiquing effect:



Seok,

Can I put an order in now for shoes with the burgundy leather or is that only for those that already put their orders in?

 

[bkrex]

This is a bit confusing. Is Seok a customer or is this his company? His replies seem to waver between the two.

Has anyone had any contact with the actual shoemaker?

 

[edmorel]

Originally Posted by bkrex

This is a bit confusing. Is Seok a customer or is this his company? His replies seem to waver between the two.

Has anyone had any contact with the actual shoemaker?


My understanding is that Seok is a customer and acting in a "broker" capacity. I would also assume that he is being compensated in some manner given the work that he is putting into it. Obviously, I could be totally wrong.

 

[kcgreg]

Can I put in an order from New Zealand? Will you help in this? What do you need from me?

 

[AlexHoogeveen]

To the gentleman above me: http://schubertcustom.blogspot.com/



Order form can be found there. For my past purchase and sales reliability, click here for eBay feedback. Current prices (US$) are $215 and $230 for boots. $50 instant discount is given to first-time customers, as an incentive to go through the self-measurement process: we will store your custom last so that repeat ordering is fast and easy.

Seok, if i read this correctly i can order my first pair for $ 165 dollar of $ 180 dollar for boots.

So for 180 dollar i could order this model:

Is it also possible in that colour? Otherwise i like the colour of the santoni your posted

 

[kcgreg]

Thanks bud for that!