Scent/Fragrance of the Day thread

[Homme]

Sycomore yesterday, Mûre et Musc today. The blackberry was long gone by this evening but some musk had stuck around, so some MKK on top since it has been a while.

 

[b1os]

Wait, there's no natural rose oil and absolute in European perfume (anymore)? No opoponax? No orange (and most citrus fruits) whatsoever?

 

[Thomas]



Eh, maybe 10ml, just to have around.

Gotcher back, mang.

Wait, there's no natural rose oil and absolute in European perfume (anymore)? No opoponax? No orange (and most citrus fruits) whatsoever?

A lot of the naturals have been heavily regulated / restricted / banned due to sensitivities et al. Thanks IFRA. The other part of it is that naturals don't always smell the same between harvests / years / et al, and the Big Producers (Chanel, Guerlain, Lauder, etc) have to find ways to standardize it so No.5 / Mitsouko / Youth Dew smell the same (or at least recognizable) year after year.

Today: Mugler A*Men Pure Havane. All this talk about tobacco-based scents got me wanting this again. FWIW, I don't know what happened but the tobacco note in perfumery got a LOT better than before. I used to hate this note (D&G Pour Homme, for instance) but now it just seems more earthy, vibrant, decadent, and real.

 

[HORNS]

Thomas, you're the one who brought to my attention that Herrera for Men was a tobacco scent, and it was one of my favorites back in the day. I had no freakin' clue.

 

[b1os]

I knew that this was the case with oakmoss.. but Surrender to Chance's newsletter today had the whole list included..

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

*List snagged from Perfume Smellin' Things and sized down because it makes me cry every time I look at it
- Ambrette seed oil, Angelica root oil, Bakul absolute, Basil absolute, Basil oil (estragole CT), Basil oil (holy), Basil oil (linalool CT), Bay oil (West Indian), Bergamot leaf oil, Bergamot peel oil (distilled), Betel leaf oil, Birch tar oil, Black tea tree oil, Boldo leaf oil, Broom absolute, Cabreuva oil, Cade oil, Calamus oil, Cananga oil, Cangerana oil, Cardamon oil, Carnation absolute, Carrot seed oil, Cascarilla oil, Cassia oil, Cassie absolute, Cinnamon bark oil, Cinnamon leaf oil, Cistus oil, Citronella oil, Clary sage oil, Clove oil, Costus oil, Cumin oil, Davana oil, Elecampane oil, Elemi oil, Fenugreek oil, Fig leaf absolute, Galangal oil, Geranium oil, Ginger oil, Ginger lily absolute, Grapefruit peel oil, Ho leaf oil, Honey myrtle oil, Horseradish oil, Horsemint oil, Huon pine oil, Hyssop oil, Jasmine grandiflorum absolute, Jasmine sambac absolute, Karo karoundé absolute, Laurel leaf oil, Lemon balm oil (Australian), Lemongrass oil, Lemon basil oil, Lemon leaf oil, Lemon myrtle oil, Lemon tea tree oil, Lemon peel oils, Lemon thyme oil, Lemon verbena oil, Lemon verbena absolute, Lime peel oil (expressed), Lovage leaf oil, Mace oil, Mandarin leaf oil, Marjoram oil (sweet), Massoia bark oil, May chang oil, Melissa oil, Mustard oil, Myrtle oil, Narcissus absolute, Nasturtium absolute, Nutmeg oil, Oakmoss absolute, Opoponax oil, Orange blossom oil, Orange blossom absolute, Orange leaf oil, Orange peel oil (bitter), Orange peel oil (sweet), Oregano oil
Palmarosa oil, Peppermint oil, Perilla oil, Peru balsam oil, Phoebe oil, Pimento berry oil, Pimento leaf oil, Pteronia oil, Rose absolute, Rose oil, Rue oil, Sandalwood oil, (Australian), Santolina oil, Sassafras oil, Savin oil, Savory oil (winter), Snakeroot oil, Spearmint oil, Spike lavender oil, Styrax oil, Sugandha oil, Taget oil, Taget absolute, Tarragon oil, Tea leaf absolute, Tejpat oil, Thyme oil (thymol CT), Tolu balsam extract, Treemoss absolute, Tuberose absolute, Vassoura oil, Violet leaf absolute, Wormseed oil, Ylang-ylang absolute, Ylang-ylang oils

At least Amouage can use rose oil (etc.) in their attars.

 

[HORNS]



I knew that this was the case with oakmoss.. but Surrender to Chance's newsletter today had the whole list included..

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

*List snagged from Perfume Smellin' Things and sized down because it makes me cry every time I look at it
- Ambrette seed oil, Angelica root oil, Bakul absolute, Basil absolute, Basil oil (estragole CT), Basil oil (holy), Basil oil (linalool CT), Bay oil (West Indian), Bergamot leaf oil, Bergamot peel oil (distilled), Betel leaf oil, Birch tar oil, Black tea tree oil, Boldo leaf oil, Broom absolute, Cabreuva oil, Cade oil, Calamus oil, Cananga oil, Cangerana oil, Cardamon oil, Carnation absolute, Carrot seed oil, Cascarilla oil, Cassia oil, Cassie absolute, Cinnamon bark oil, Cinnamon leaf oil, Cistus oil, Citronella oil, Clary sage oil, Clove oil, Costus oil, Cumin oil, Davana oil, Elecampane oil, Elemi oil, Fenugreek oil, Fig leaf absolute, Galangal oil, Geranium oil, Ginger oil, Ginger lily absolute, Grapefruit peel oil, Ho leaf oil, Honey myrtle oil, Horseradish oil, Horsemint oil, Huon pine oil, Hyssop oil, Jasmine grandiflorum absolute, Jasmine sambac absolute, Karo karoundé absolute, Laurel leaf oil, Lemon balm oil (Australian), Lemongrass oil, Lemon basil oil, Lemon leaf oil, Lemon myrtle oil, Lemon tea tree oil, Lemon peel oils, Lemon thyme oil, Lemon verbena oil, Lemon verbena absolute, Lime peel oil (expressed), Lovage leaf oil, Mace oil, Mandarin leaf oil, Marjoram oil (sweet), Massoia bark oil, May chang oil, Melissa oil, Mustard oil, Myrtle oil, Narcissus absolute, Nasturtium absolute, Nutmeg oil, Oakmoss absolute, Opoponax oil, Orange blossom oil, Orange blossom absolute, Orange leaf oil, Orange peel oil (bitter), Orange peel oil (sweet), Oregano oil
Palmarosa oil, Peppermint oil, Perilla oil, Peru balsam oil, Phoebe oil, Pimento berry oil, Pimento leaf oil, Pteronia oil, Rose absolute, Rose oil, Rue oil, Sandalwood oil, (Australian), Santolina oil, Sassafras oil, Savin oil, Savory oil (winter), Snakeroot oil, Spearmint oil, Spike lavender oil, Styrax oil, Sugandha oil, Taget oil, Taget absolute, Tarragon oil, Tea leaf absolute, Tejpat oil, Thyme oil (thymol CT), Tolu balsam extract, Treemoss absolute, Tuberose absolute, Vassoura oil, Violet leaf absolute, Wormseed oil, Ylang-ylang absolute, Ylang-ylang oils

At least Amouage can use rose oil (etc.) in their attars.

Christ . . .

 

[HORNS]

Thank God that there's an ever-increasing number of perfumers here in the U.S. and Japan.

 

[b1os]

This is so damn stupid, like the ban on regular light bulbs.

Serge Lutens lives in Morocco according to Wiki. Does any know whether his company is based in Morocco? That way he could use the listed ingredients.

 

[Thomas]



This is so damn stupid, like the ban on regular light bulbs.
Serge Lutens lives in Morocco according to Wiki. Does any know whether his company is based in Morocco? That way he could use the listed ingredients.

Nope - his company is part of Shiseido (Japan) but they're more or less centered around the Palais Royale flagship in Paris. Even then, major producers are going to tend to be IFRA complaint regardless of locale - such as Lauder.

The other side of this is that the restricted materials are going to go away due to the lack of demand. If Chanel has been buying tons of oakmoss absolute, and now they're not - supplies will drop due to the lack of a market.

Now, this part is Conspiracy - but the IFRA is said to have the Big 7 as members (Givaudan, Symrise, IFF, et al) who make the synthetics. Supposedly this is a power grab by the Big 7 to take market share from the natural growers. I tend to believe it, considering the proliferation of captive aroma molecules they're making now. Then again I'm cynical about these things.

 

[b1os]

Right, Shiseido, I figure that they could trick a little by setting up subsidiary companies, but that probably gets too complex.

 

[green bastard]

Thanks Thomas and b1os, that was interesting. Nice to get some background information once in a while.

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier - Santal Noble

 

[RedLantern]

Anybody have a partial or decant of Rose 31 or Royal Scottish Lavender they'd like to part with? Sorry if this is the wrong thread - looks like the split thread is kaput.

 

[L'Incandescent]

Took me a while to decide today, but I went with Secrete Datura.

 

[b1os]

Frédéric Malle - Musc Ravageur for me. Anyone who doesn't own it yet, CologneReview is hosting a split! Get your hands on some asap.

 

[Xericx]

Tom Ford Grey Vetivier today. smells like dollar bills!