Scent/Fragrance of the Day thread

[Britalian]

L' Artisan - Piment Brulant

 

[b1os]

Amouage - Jubilation XXV

 

[L'Incandescent]

Tried the new A*Men Le Gout du Parfum today. I'm not a huge fan of the original A*Men, but I don't strongly dislike it either, so I didn't have really high expectations. I certainly appreciate Mugler's willingness to try unconventional things, but I don't think this one works. It seems like there are two fragrances in one here: A*Men and Chili Pepper Extreme. They don't blend well at all. The chili pepper does get toned down a bit as the fragrance dries down, though. On the plus side, there's a very prominent coffee note at the top that's quite pleasant.

 

[rach2jlc]

Busy week, so sorry haven't posted in a while.

Diorella parfum today. A wonderful, deeper, richer counterpart to Eau Sauvage. This is oversimplifying, but the two are in the same universe. Diorella was Roudnitska's personal favorite among his creations, and you can see why... it has a strange conflicting harmony, simplicity, yet depth that only he could do.

It's less harsh or sour than Eau Sauvage, but odder in overall affect. Really quite unique, though again it's not something I'd spend a fortune to get. It's VERY much a Roudnitska, and if you had this, Rochas Moustache, Eau Sauvage, and Parfum de Therese (with the melon note), you'd pretty much get Diorella as well.

Still, though, it's worth it if you find a reasonable bottle... especially in a vintage parfum.

I don't want to say, though, that while applying it the bottle spilled and I lost a few precious mls. I wiped it up with my handkerchief, not a napkin, so at least my hanky smells heavenly.

Spilling a parfum absolutely can ruin a morning, especially when said perfume has been discontinued for a decade. When said parfums only came in 7.5 ml bottles... 2-3 mls lost is a big deal.

 

[L'Incandescent]

You've really been in the Roudnitska groove lately!

 

[rach2jlc]



You've really been in the Roudnitska groove lately!

Yeah, I'm trying to do intensive "swaths" of parfum wearing, to see what I can see in terms of a nose's style. It's been quite rewarding, as I definitely get the "Roudnitska groove" that others have talked about. Maurice Roucel is another that I feel has a distinctive style, though obviously quite different.

After years of fragrance wearing, it's fun then to go back and do these little "studies" to retread ground you thought you knew already. I'm finding all sorts of things I never found before.

Anyway, the Roudnitska's I've been doing lately are:

Diorella
Diorissimo
Dior-Dior
Eau Sauvage (just a bit)

Rochas Moustache
Eau d'hermes

La parfum de therese (I've run out! Need more!) (haha)

The only ones I don't have are the other Rochas (Femme, Mousseline, and Mouche), Mario Valentino Ocean Rain, and of course Diorama and Dior Eau Fraiche!

Anyway, of all of them, it's hard to pick a favorite, as each does something different, while still being obviously of the same creator. As an entire scent experience, probably La Parfum de therese is my favorite, though the funkiness and slight stink of Eau d'hermes is very nice. Diorissimo is classic and fresh, while Diorella or Moustache have a great freshness that is more "harsh."

 

[Britalian]

SMN- Peau D'Espagne

 

[giony]



Today - Chanel Exclusif's Beige - totally unremarkable.

Right on. Just so you know they all have awful longevity, I do much enjoy Bois des Iles, Bel Respiro and Coromandel.

The longevity of M is really good. I applied it (a little too much) like 14 hours ago, it still is pretty intense. Anyone else here tried out M?

I have the 3-in-1 sample. IIRC, it was spicy (mostly clove) and incensey, a bit funky toward to the end. Long lasting.


@Prof. Fabulous,
I love Rochas Moustache and La parfum de therese!

Today I'm wearing Oud by Mona di Orio, who studied under Roudnitska for 15 years.
Mona di Orio - My years with Edmond Roudnitska (youtube)

Mona's oud is very true to the high-end agarwood incense you can smell in some Zen temples. Definitely the best oud perfume out there.

 

[rioni]

Today it's Honor Man Amouage

 

[L'Incandescent]

Creed Fleur de The Rose Bulgare. This is very much not an Edmond Roudnitska-type fragrance! But as I think I've said lots of times here, it's the best treatment of rose that I'm aware of. Just stunning.

 

[rach2jlc]

Leaving Edmond for a day and going for some vintage Antaeus. I have a bottle of the new, and this vintage bottle. Wearing them both shows me what others have said... they are definitely the "same" fragrance, but definitely the reformulation pales in smoothness, depth, and character to the old. It's similar to Diorissimo, Givenchy Gentleman and other reformulations... they kept the "shell" but all the juices, the lifeblood, seems paler. Whether due to regulations OR to cost saving measures (or, I suspect, a combination of both), the new stuff is still fine and so if you like the scent should have it... but dayum if you wear the old you see what's missing these days.

The new stuff tends to have a harsher "blast" that goes for volume over subtlety. I don't know if this is due to changed ingredients or just changes to synthetic versions of the originals. BUT, Diorissimo has an almost sneeze-worthy blast at the front, Antaeus does too, and Givenchy Gentleman has "sour" where the old is "funky."

Anyway, all three in any form are still good scents, but after finding this 100ml vintage bottle (new in box and still wrapped!) I can agree with T and others who lament the passing of the original.

 

[Baron]

I have a decant of Antaeus that I got in my Basenotes days 6 or 7 years ago and I have no idea if it's old of new, but I suspect it's the old stuff. Luckily, I never fell in love with that scent so that's one reformulation I won't have to worry about.

Speaking of which, Vintage Guerlain EDC today. I have a nice old splash bottle, but it's getting used up way too fast. I also have a spray bottle of vintage edt, but I like the edc more.

 

[tps16]

Today, Bois du Portugal.
Are any of you guys very familiar with PdN New York. I really like Bois du Portugal, Heritage, and Chanel PM, so it sounds right up my alley. Is it worth risking a blind buy? No stores anywhere near me carry it. Thanks!

 

[L'Incandescent]



Today, Bois du Portugal.
Are any of you guys very familiar with PdN New York. I really like Bois du Portugal, Heritage, and Chanel PM, so it sounds right up my alley. Is it worth risking a blind buy? No stores anywhere near me carry it. Thanks!

PdN New York is extraordinarily good, IMO. I think you can get it in a 30ml size, so even if you don't like it, it's not a huge loss. But really, I can't think of any reason why someone wouldn't like it. To my nose, it's a wonderfully blended contemporary take on the classic chypre genre.

Rambo would have you believe that it's manly in a Telly Savalas way. (That's a good thing for Rambo, I think!)

 

[Baron]



Today, Bois du Portugal.
Are any of you guys very familiar with PdN New York. I really like Bois du Portugal, Heritage, and Chanel PM, so it sounds right up my alley. Is it worth risking a blind buy? No stores anywhere near me carry it. Thanks!

PdN is a lovely scent, easy to love, distinctive but uncontroversial. I think it's a very safe blind buy.