Scent/Fragrance of the Day thread

Discussion in 'Health & Body' started by Dmax, Aug 22, 2007.

  1. rach2jlc

    rach2jlc Prof. Fabulous Dubiously Honored

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    I had a bottle of this I got in a swap 3-4 years ago. I didn't HATE it, but I found it mostly tuberose with cedar as an afterthought. It left me going "meh," though I wore it a LOT trying to find something to love in it. I didn't find that, and ended up giving the bottle away.

    For "cedar scents that don't really claim to be cedar scents" you might also try Dolce Vita (Dior.) It's got less tuberose blast, but a sweet, creamy oriental note with a very clear heart of cedar (with a nice hint of cinammon, too!) It's also not a "perfect" scent, but I like it.

    Voleur de Roses (L'aP) today. I have a tiny little bit left over and will finish it up. I've had 3-4 bottles of this, and it was one of my first niche purchases back in the day (I think it originally came out in the early 1990's?) Anyway, longevity is quite bad but the blend of rose and patchouli I've always found pleasant, with just enough funk/kick to keep it from being boring.

    I won't be purchasing another bottle, though, because there are too many good ones out there I haven't tried yet. My next "big" purchase will be (down the road) Malle's Portrait of a Lady. I have no interest or desire to drop $300 now on a scent, so "down the road" probably means next year or later. For now, I need to go through at least 100mls of various oriental parfum/extraits before I can justify getting yet another heavy oriental.
     
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2011
  2. Thomas

    Thomas Senior member

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    I had a decant of Chanel PM in my bag earlier this morning as I dashed out to deal with a boat issue, but I made it back home in time to switch to Egoiste. I'm such a Chanel girl.
     
  3. IndianBoyz

    IndianBoyz Senior member

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    Thanks for the suggestion.
    I happen to like tuberose, and I did get lots of it I think alongside an oriental amber note. Didn't really get much cedar. It leans towards feminine in my opinion but on me I think it's amazing.
    I like these kind of sweet, gourmand-like orientals compared to what I tried yesterday which is Original Santal by Creed which I think smelled like Boss Bottled, but a little more exclusive. Creed has failed to impress me on all the occasions I tried their scents. .
     
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2011
  4. rach2jlc

    rach2jlc Prof. Fabulous Dubiously Honored

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    Agreed re: Creed.

    I'd definitely give dior dolce Vita a try, then. You might enjoy it (given what you wrote above.) You also MUST try Malle Portrait of a Lady... it's oriental par excellence.

    Cartier la baiser du dragon is another unique oriental/sweet. Bond West Broadway, Cannabis Fresh Santal, and Hanae Mori men are a few others you might enjoy.

    Original Santal is dull; it's like JOOP to my nose, which is NOT a good thing.
     
  5. IndianBoyz

    IndianBoyz Senior member

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    OK, sounds good.
    I haven't tried GIT so I hope my opinion will change after smelling some.
     
  6. rach2jlc

    rach2jlc Prof. Fabulous Dubiously Honored

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    I wouldn't hope your breath; GIT I find to be the LEAST impressive of many unimpressive Creeds. It's not bad, by any means, but with Cool water having copied it all through the 90's, and many others trying for it as well, it's hardly unique, and for the money, the "safe" "nice" vibe is really rather boring.

    Given what you said you like above, I think you might enjoy Creed's lesser-known Ambre Cannelle and/or Jasmin Imperiatrice Eugenie (if you are convinced you want to try and find a Creed you like). The former is a quite sultry amber scent with cinammon, the latter a very thick, heady jasmine.

    Based on what you said above, too, it seems you might be a big fan of Montale's various oud-based orientals. I'd definitely order some samples and see what you think.
     
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2011
  7. IndianBoyz

    IndianBoyz Senior member

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    I think GIT and Cool Water were designed by the same perfumer, at least that's what I read. Cool Water was one of my first scents when I was a kid, something like youth scentiment, so I might dig GIT.
    I'm familiar with Montale. The Aoud series that is.
     
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2011
  8. IndianBoyz

    IndianBoyz Senior member

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    According to Luca Turin, Pierre Bourdon created both GIT & Cool Water.
     
  9. rach2jlc

    rach2jlc Prof. Fabulous Dubiously Honored

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    ^Interesting! A quick perusal found this old BN thread about it as well.

    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/228316-Did-Pierre-Bourdon-create-Green-Irish-Tweed

    An interesting read for those who want to buy into the "Creed lore," which basically is just completely made up.

    One more (linked in the above thread) about creed's dubious provenance, and their "exaggerations" as to natural ingredients:
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/213875-Creed-s-claim-of-royalty-and-use-of-naturals-(Turin-content)

    An excellent post there by member the-good-life:

    Every fragrance house has its "spiel." Most grand histories are made up marketing fluff, whether it's Creed, Carthusia, the new Rancé, or 4711. Those companies that actually have a tradition usually don't mention things like previous bankruptcies, resurrections and concomitant product reformulations (Penhaligon's or Crown would be typical examples here).

    Creed was a small and renowned fashion house for the European upper crust which had its glory days from the era of Napoleon III to the early twentieth century. That is the period that the present-day perfume house refers to when citing their service to royalty and aristocracy. Actually, even the royal warrants reprinted on the private collection cartons are not explicitly for perfume, but for clothing, riding gear etc. Historically, the Creeds are significant as tailors and listed in fashion handbooks, while they are quite irrelevant to the history of perfumery, which was obviously just a side show of their bespoke operation.

    The fashion house seems to have folded for good some time in the 1950s or early 1960s & Olivier Creed must have decided to use the house's prestige as a marketing instrument in building a new perfume house. As we know from the ebay auction of some vintage late 1960s or early 1970s bottles, he apparently sold his first colognes under his own name, as Olivier Creed Eau de Cologne (the content allegedly being what is now Selection Verte). Wether the bespoke perfume service directly transformed into the perfume house only Creed knows, but if he dates are correct, there is a constant, though narrow trickle of creations (Jasmal 59, Aubepine & Epicea in 65, Irisia 68).

    As to the nature of Creed perfumes, there is no question that they are different from most other lines, in that many of the older ones do have a high natural oil content and form relaitvely simple compositions which live through the quality of the ingredients. This is a style which Turin doesn't particularly care for or consider relevant for perfume culture, which, together with his (somewhat selective) disdain for pompous marketing makes Creed one of his "special" friends. Surely if it came from any other house he would have given GIT 5 stars and a few other Creeds he praises 4 instead of 3. He rates roughly half of all Creeds positively though (3 or more stars), which isn't all that bad, really. He also fails to review many of the, IMHO, most interesting Creeds, most of all Vintage Tabarome, but also Orange Spice, which is historically important for inspring Kouros (and quite good, as well), Baie de Genievre, Royal Delight and many others.

    The general trend for Creed since the 90s has seemingly been towards more designer oriented perfumes, greater reliance on new synthetic molecules and appealing to a younger clientele. That seems economically a wise move, even if the proportion of Creeds that I personally like will probably be decreasing (I'm not a fan of MI, SMW, VIW, OS). They do need to update their copy on tincures and rare essences. E.g., I am pretty certain after comparing Santal Imperial from 2003 and 2005 that it has radically changed from a high Mysore sandalwood content to highly synthetic.

    I understand that Creed has managed to load its brand with a cultural meaning that makes it the object of intense adoration and hate, depending on who's looking at it. I happen to find the marketing rather unbearable, while thoroughly enjoying the wonderful Royal English Leather, Bois du Portugal, Orange Spice, Baie de Genievre, Selection Verte, GIT, Epicea, Cypres Musc and others. For the reason of these perfumes alone I wish Creed a long life, even if that means reading the same carefully placed PR blurb in some glossy men's mag again and again (well, one more reason to avoid glossy men's mags).
     
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2011
  10. IndianBoyz

    IndianBoyz Senior member

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    I know. ^

    Which Montales would you recommend, by the way.
     
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2011
  11. L'Incandescent

    L'Incandescent Senior member

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    Add me to the list of people who don't get what all the fuss is about with GIT. It's fine, but nothing especially memorable. I've said this before, but IMO the Creeds most worth trying are Baie de Genievre and Fleurs de The Rose Bulgare. Fantasia de Fleurs is pretty good too.

    Also, if you wear Aventus, many pretty ladies will want to team up with you for activities. I learned that at BN.
     
  12. rach2jlc

    rach2jlc Prof. Fabulous Dubiously Honored

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    I'll stick to non-Aouds, since you can try those on your own and/or they are often discussed here.

    Based on your mentioning that you like sweet, off-kilter, oriental type scents, I'd try:

    Orient Extreme
    Sweet Oriental Dream
    Vanille absolu
    Sandalsliver (sometimes called "Skin")

    I didn't love any of these, though the vanille absolu was a very interesting take on vanilla. I found them all too sweet, but they were very unique.
    Sweet Oriental dream is a rakhat loukhoum scent, meaning almost candied/gourmand oriental, in the vibe of Lutens or Mecheri Loukhoum.

    Grayland was also interesting, but I think it's been discontinued. Patchouli leaves is perhaps my favorite full-on patchouli scent, but it's less sweet than you might want (L'aP Patchouli Patch might be a sweeter patchouli you'd like)

    Other recs I'll let other members chime in. I found all the Montale I tried unique, even if I didn't LOVE them, with the exception of Fougeres Marine and Embruns d'essaouira, both of which I find rather dull.
     
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2011
  13. IndianBoyz

    IndianBoyz Senior member

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    Interesting. Thanks.
     
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2011
  14. Rambo

    Rambo Senior member

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    wHERE tO kOP??????????????????????????????
     
  15. Baron

    Baron Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Balenciaga Portos today. One of those great and, sadly, discontinued dirty, spicy man-scents from the 70's - 80's era. It also has a bit of a locker room, soapy undercurrent, so there's that tension between dirty and clean, like with Kouros or Jules. This is a style of scent that I found repulsive when I first got interested in fragrances, but it's become a favorite more recently.
     

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