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Scent/Fragrance of the Day thread

Discussion in 'Health & Body' started by Dmax, Aug 22, 2007.

  1. Ambulance Chaser

    Ambulance Chaser Senior member

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    SOTD is TFPB Japon Noir. Nothing else smells like this, and I'm still figuring where and when to wear it.
     
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  2. AJ922015

    AJ922015 Member

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    Thank's for the reply!

    Umm yes, I would say something that is comparable in price to the ones I mentioned, but I am willing to be flexible on that if I sample something that costs more, but is to my liking.

    AJ
     
  3. L'Incandescent

    L'Incandescent Senior member

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    I am wearing Coromandel. It's one of my favorites and also a big compliment getter.
     
  4. Baron

    Baron Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I went to the AIX Scent Fair at the Hammer Museum this afternoon. I really enjoyed it. I sampled dozens of fragrances, and I got a chance to meet and chat with several perfumers. Bruno Fazzolari, to mention one that's familiar to some of the people here, was a super nice guy. I ended up buying a sample set from him. Some other people I spoke with were the perfumers from Nobile 1842 - they have a scent called Fougere Nobile that I really liked. There was an Italian Line called Bouge, and he had some interesting scents, and also a gourmand "experimental collaboration" with Fazzolari called Cadavre Exquis. I had a nice conversation with Ellen Covey from Olympic Orchids perfumes, and she had a several interesting scents, including one called Bat. She also had several raw ingredients at her table. I always find it educational to sniff raw ingredients. I only realized when I got home and read more about her that Luca Turin blogged favorably about her scents a few weeks ago. I spoke with Jessica Hannah from J. Hannah & co - she had a fantastic smoky leather scent called Skive. I regret not buying that one, but I smelled it early on, then I made my rounds and forgot to return to her booth at the end (and I also was pressed for time).

    There were many more, I wish I could have spent more time there. If anyone is nearby and has time tomorrow, I highly recommend you visit.
     
    2 people like this.
  5. crdb

    crdb Senior member

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    Al Hareem - the last sample left, avoided so far due to its notes when I opened the vial.

    Some say oud can smell like blue cheese and for the first time, this is absolutely what hits me in the face having spread a half drop over my wrist. Blue cheese with rose. Specifically, gorgonzola, or at least the liquid that drips off it if you leave it at room temperature too long. There's a slight barnyard feel again, but it disappears if I think of blue cheese, so maybe the oud is what gives me this cowpat impression in AA as well. This one projects like Pure Incense - far and strong. Unwearable (IMO) in all but fragrance enthusiast circles.

    Looking forward to see how it develops.

    edit: just a few minutes have past and the blue cheese has blended with the rose to create a really interesting, complex and rich rose. Unlike Ame Sombre this one is not curried. Might be a good one for @L'Incandescent ...
     
    Last edited: May 7, 2016
  6. HORNS

    HORNS Senior member

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    That's fantastic. I have kept up with Bruno's part of Cadavre Exquis on Facebook and really wish I even partially liked gourmands so I could get a bottle, but I don't at all. The whole process was very artisanal.

    Tonight I'm wearing Dolce & Gabana By Man.
     
  7. California Dreamer

    California Dreamer Senior member

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    Dries van Noten today, for a country drive in the rain. Creamy sandalwood, vanilla and tonka bean; was working very well, I thought, until the wife reached for her Ventolin. :(
     
  8. TheShoeMaker

    TheShoeMaker Well-Known Member

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    SOTD: Dior Homme Cologne both pre and post shower.
    Today had me thinking about cocktails, mixology and perfumes. What cocktails could you see yourself wearing and what perfumes would you love to have a sip of?
     
  9. crdb

    crdb Senior member

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    Interesting idea.

    The obvious for me would be the sazerac. Very hard cocktail to make properly and my standard test for a new bar that claims to have good bartenders. The cognac sazerac is slightly more subtle and harder to balance so it would be my choice, even if rye notes tie well with the Peychaud's bitters. I immediately draw a connection to Habit Rouge who has that kind of basil/aniseed top note and a complex but pleasant herbal profile as well. Best sazerac: London's Milk & Honey many years ago, in the basement like the plebs without membership that we were.

    Any of the gourmand attars from Sultan might fit in there. Carnival d'Havana, which is basically caramel, vanilla, dark rum and tobacco, reminds me of a cocktail I had at the Bohemia Lounge in London something like a decade ago. They basically infused a cigar in an older Havana Club (if I recall well) which had been sweetened, perhaps with molasses. Tabac Grande might fit the profile better as it is less vanillic.

    MFK's Aquas remind me of a gin cocktail I had in a teacup at Hemingway's in Manly, a hipster bar on the beach a 45min ferry ride from Sydney CBD. The aromatic bitterness and persistence both fit. It did, if I recall well, have a floating rose bud in it. So could be tied to something else rosy with bitter notes.

    My standard order if I don't trust the bar is a negroni, which is virtually impossible to screw up (and conversely, doesn't really have a "great" version). Philosophically, this role is taken by Aramis in my collection, or perhaps one of the more boring MFKs (Amyris?). I usually have negronis at No. 5 Emerald Hill Road in Singapore, a great place to play pool but not quite a cocktail destination, and Gordon Ramsay's restaurant in Heathrow T5 (so I can have a good nap on my next leg).

    A well made rum-and-lime drink is a thing of beauty and ephemerality. The first sip, before your nose and palate adapt, is what it's about. Either the usual dark rum daiquiri (with Plantation, at Ah Sam Drinks Stall) or a French ti punch (mostly agricole rum at room temperature, spoon of moscovado sugar, quarter lime barely squeezed). The same freshness, intensity and transitory nature can be found in... l'Occitane. Yes, that company almost never mentioned on this thread. Their verbena/citrus stuff is really fresh, and disappears just as fast.
     
    Last edited: May 8, 2016
  10. HORNS

    HORNS Senior member

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    This evening I'm wearing La Via del Profumo's Oakmoss.
     
  11. sebastian mcfox

    sebastian mcfox Senior member

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    What do you think? I was underwhelmed - mainly because my expectations had been raised to lofty heights by Kafka's review
     
    Last edited: May 8, 2016
  12. L'Incandescent

    L'Incandescent Senior member

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    @AJ922015

    Here are some recommendations. I've focused on scents that you should be able to buy at department stores. If you want to try more niche things, then let me know, but I didn't get the sense that you wanted to dive too deeply into that world. I've also focused on scents that are significantly different from the ones you already own. These are in no particular order.

    1. Dior Homme. A beautiful, light iris and cocoa scent. This was a big hit among perfume connoisseurs when it first came out, and deservedly so.
    2. Cartier Declaration d'un Soir. It's a spicy, woody rose. Should be readily available, but it's uncommon enough that you'd definitely stand out from the crowd.
    3. Viktor & Rolf Spicebomb. Warm, sweet spice and tobacco. It's very pleasant, probably most appropriate for fall and winter. I smell this (or similar scents) on a lot of guys.
    4. Chanel Egoiste. (NOT the Platinum Egoiste.) Very rich cinnamon and woods, mostly sandalwood. Despite its being a Chanel, I hardly ever smell this on anyone.
    5. Chanel pour Monsieur. Classic, classic, classic masculine. It dates from the 1950s, but it's as timeless a masculine as you could hope for.
    6. Tom Ford Noir Extreme. Very contemporary masculine. It's sweet and creamy with warm spices. Very easy to like.
    7. Hermès Terre d'Hermès. A contemporary classic, unlike anything that had been made before it. It's earthy and mineraly, but with a lovely orange note too.
    8. L'Instant de Guerlain pour Homme. A very pleasant cocoa and patchouli scent. Again, very easy to like.
    9. Tom Ford Velvet Orchid. This is if you're willing to go out on a limb just a little bit. Beautiful bright orchid with a bit of a boozy feel.
     
    Last edited: May 8, 2016
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  13. L'Incandescent

    L'Incandescent Senior member

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    SOTD was Rose Flash. It's a very dense, resiny rose. I like it, but I would like it more, I think, if it weren't so concentrated.
     
  14. DeSense

    DeSense Senior member

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    Bought Antaeus "blind" (was a long time since last, wonder how it will go...) in 50ml "limited edition"(?).
    And scored a (as requested) Bois des Iles Exclusifs sample.

    PS: Wearing Sycomore again.
    PPS: I hate Chanel. I'll probably have to get a FB of BdI at some point.
     
    Last edited: May 9, 2016
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  15. annygrant

    annygrant Member

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  16. HORNS

    HORNS Senior member

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    I like it, but I smelled it without reading any opinions on it prior. I like dry fragrances and the bitter herbaceous quality of Oakmoss is right up my alley.

    Today I'm wearing Le Labo Iris 39.
     
  17. AJ922015

    AJ922015 Member

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    @L'Incandescent

    Thank you so much! This is exactly what I was looking for. Much thanks to @crdb as well!
     
  18. Ambulance Chaser

    Ambulance Chaser Senior member

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    The beauty of the negroni lies in the nearly infinite variations one can create by switching out one, some, or all of the three ingredients. I like substituting silver tequila for gin; the vegetal nature of the tequila plays well with the bitter orange of Campari. Lately, I've been enjoying a variation I discovered at the Franklin in Philadelphia made with rhum agricole, Cocchi Rosa, Gran Classico, and tiki bitters. And I agree with Dale DeGroff that a negroni is best on the rocks rather than straight up.
     
  19. Master-Classter

    Master-Classter Senior member

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    Don't say I never do nothing... I know this was from ages ago but I made a mental note to properly respond to it since you took the time to write it all out… This is basically just a run down of some of the major niche houses and the stuff I also personally like or know is often recommended so might be a good starting point…

    I think your approach makes sense to get a bit of everything in the beginning and feel out the field.

    For a sense of the ‘old’ way of doing perfumes, I’d say look to the older catalogues from Hermes and Guerlain and some Caron, even some Chanels. MDCI and Roja Dov are good for that too even though they’re modern.

    For Hermes - Things like Bel Ami and Equipage which you already have on your list. I know you have some citrus but I find concentree d’orange verte a great all rounder scent to wear. Heck even Terre D’Hermes is really solid. And from Hermessence, Vetiver Tonka is pleasant, as is Poivre Samarcade, but I think Ambre Narguile is the star of the show.
    Guerlain – I really just don’t know their old stuff that well and there are a million. Jicky is a must try. Their older vintage Vetiver is one of my favorite scents. Of the newer scents I really like Songe D’un Bois D’ete. L’Instant extreme had a brief moment of love in the community.
    Chanel – things like Antaeus is maybe worth smelling just because it’s so iconic of a certain era’s style. Pour Monsieur is excellent and worth smelling if not blind buying. From Exclusifs I’d say Bois des Iles, Sycomore (unless you’re really done with vetiver), Coromandel, and Cuir de Russie.
    L’Artisan - Timbuktu, Dzongkha are both good, yes. I’d add in Tea for Two, Dzing!, and Fou d’Absinthe. I love Al Oudh but it’s a bit stinky. Their Couer De Vetiver Sacre is a little sweet and jammy and usually pretty cheap.
    Caron – I just don’t know enough of their old stuff to make recommendations and most of their new stuff is junk. Even Pour an Homme, I’d say just skip it.

    Amouage – many good ones. The usual suspects are Jubilation XXV, Memoir, Reflection, Interlude and Lyric. I didn’t like Dia, Ciel or Sunshine, so don’t think those are what the house has to offer.
    Tauer – has quite a few nice ones. Try LdDM of course. Also Lonestar memories and his incense one. I’ve fallen out of touch with what the line is doing so I’m no help there.
    Bond #9 – too many, there are a few winners like Chinatown, New Haarlem, Riverside Drive etc but not worth looking for really.
    Montale – again, way too many to look at in the line and most of them only meh. Red Vetiver is good, I really like Full Incense and Café Intense and their big hit is Black Oud but again, not too much new here really.
    Nasomatto – again, they were talked about a lot and then now suddenly nothing. They’re super potent but nothing really all that unusual.
    Slumberhouse – I’ve only tried a few but these guys are definitely worth checking out. Hugely potent, definitely some interesting smells, worth trying for good modern niche.
    Tom Ford – many to choose from and many excellent ones… Tuscan Leather, Tobacco Vanille, Tobacco Oud (very good!), Oud Wood (nice but boring), Italian Cypress, Amber Absolute, Neroli Portofino, Plum Japonaise, etc. Those are the standouts in my opinion. And Black Orchid may be worth a sniff too. Even Noir (original edp) smells a bit like Guerlain Habit Rouge so it’s worth a smell.
    Heeley – A few winners for sure. I like Esprit du Tigre, many like Cuir Pleine Fleur, and also Cardinal is a soapy cold incense. Sel Marine is a nice clean salty scent but you said you didn’t like that.
    Dior Privee – if you have access to it, fairly modern and clean. I like Leather Oud (really stinky), and Ambre Nuit. Bois D’Argent is also nice and even that new Feve Delices.

    Aqua Di Parma – many old school classic smells here. The Essenza for example. I really like their Intensa Oud actually and it’s quite unique.
    Creed – eh love em or hate em. I think based on where you’re at they’re approachable but you’ll probably get bored. I’d say try their Royal Oud and Spice and Wood and yes, Aventus, which really does deserve the hype.
    Armani Privee – actually a few nice ones. Bois D’Encense is a nice woody incense and their Royal Oud is very pleasant. Those were the standouts to me.
    Annick Goutal – too many to look at and more interesting stuff out there so skip for now.
    By Kilian – ignoring ridiculous overpriced packaging, some very good scents here. The usual suspects are Back to Black, Straight to Heaven, and Taste of Heaven. I also like Smoke for the Soul and Incense Oud and Pure Oud.
    Frederic Malle – Hmmm, hard to say really. A very accomplished line but I’d almost say come back to it when you know what you like and have more experience. It’s a line that’s hard to understand and the scents are very varied. Too many here to recommend because totally depends on what you like.
    CdG – incense series and wood series, plus a few others. Very reasonably priced and some good work here!
    Le Labo – a few… you said you have roses so Rose 31 may be a skip but it’s nice. I’d also say Santal 33, Neroli 36, and their Patchouli and Oud are pretty heavy hitters (though I find hard to wear).
    Byredo –actually a few nice ones here. From Pulp to Baudelaire and Blanche.
    Diptyque – quite a few nice ones. Personally I love Philosykos and L’Ombre Dans L’eau. Their Eau Duelle is nice too.
    Serge Lutens – hmmm, many many but a few basic ones will give you a sense of his style. Ambre Sultan, Chergui, 5 O’Clock Au Gigembre, etc.
    Mona Di Orio – not too easy to find and a little pricey. Well constructed but nothing unusual.

    Randoms:
    Parfum d’Empire – Ambre Russe
    Divine L’Homme Sage
    Masque Milano – Russian Tea and Tobacco one
    Puredistance – M. If you’re smelling Bel Ami, smell this too.
    Essentric Molecules - Molecule 01
    YSL - Rive Gauche and M7
     
    Last edited: May 9, 2016
    5 people like this.
  20. crdb

    crdb Senior member

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    Oh, I hear you and you can do this with virtually any cocktail. I understand rum old fashioned were all the rage a year ago. Just my opinion: rhum agricole is so different from gin that I don't think it counts as a negroni; its vegetal nature as you call it is a property of the core ingredient itself (vesou, i.e. crushed cane) rather than a flavoring to what is basically herbal vodka, and as such is both more subtle and more complex, more integrated versus the gin's herbal additivity.

    It's just that the strong bitterness, sweetness and the rocks (as you mention) of what can properly be called a "negroni" simply are too much for a fine balancing act like getting the aniseed presence just right in a sazerac, which has caused me intense happiness in the past, in a Jiro Dreams of Sushi moment because it was so close to perfection. Negroni is something you sip whilst playing pool or waiting for the next dish sitting outside with friends on a warm Italian summer night, you're not supposed to count what you put in there, you just sling it in and serve...
     

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