SC fit critique request

[Threadbearer]

Picked up this unlined sport coat at the BB sale last weekend. I think it looks like an excellent fit from the front. But from the back and sides, the lower portion of the jacket looks a little more like a single butt flap than a pair of side vents. Did I get the wrong size, or is this something a tailor could fix without much difficulty? Side note: It probably doesn't fall as smoothly as a lined SC because it has a tendency to catch on my shirt and slacks. Not sure what to do about that except to have it let out a little at the hips.

 

[Doxe]

I see two things, a dropped right shoulder and an erect stance.

The dropped shoulder is causing the 45 degree rippling across your center back to your right shoulder.

The erect stance is causing the shelving and piling up of fabric in your lower back. It is also making the front quarters overlap a bit.

Both these issues can be cleaned up a bit by having the excess fabric taken in. But will it be SF perfect? No. But I have these exact same problems and none of my OTR is SF perfect.

BB cuts their suits for an older, more slouched, clientele. I've had issues with their fits myself.

The shoulders look nice. I would have it cleaned up in the back and enjoy the jacket.

 

[NewYorkIslander]

I think it looks ok...a tailor should be able to clean the back up. Not bad front fit at all man. Enjoy it!

 

[Threadbearer]

Originally Posted by Doxe

Both these issues can be cleaned up a bit by having the excess fabric taken in. But will it be SF perfect? No. But I have these exact same problems and none of my OTR is SF perfect.
Thanks for the thorough critique, Doxe. Much appreciated.

I'm really surprised to hear you suggest that the jacket needs to be taken in. I was sure the solution would be to let it out, especially around the top of my hips where it appears to be catching on my other clothing. Is that really what you meant to say? If so, where should I have my tailor take it in in order to stop the lower back portion of the jacket from creeping up my lower back?

BB cuts their suits for an older, more slouched, clientele.

Is that still true? I know they went through a Geezer Period a while back, but it seems to me like their newer stuff -- in the past year or so -- has been slimmer, sleeker, and targeted at a more youthful clientele.

 

[jrd617]

Looks good. Maybe a tailor can take it in the slightest bit in the waist and clean up the back.

 

[Dewey]

Looks like both your shoulders are sloped. This is not a bad thing. But, you will find that creasing across the shoulder blades on most any OTR jacket. I would live with it. Any tailor capable of fixing this has better things to do than to work on a $400 BB jacket. Look for softer, heavier fabrics and less constructed shoulders if you want a cleaner upper back with your next jacket.

The erect posture is also what causes the ripples on your biceps. Your arms hang a bit too far back (toward your body) for the cut of the jacket. This is typical for someone with your posture.

I'm not sure who the jackets are cut to fit; I hear they are cut for slumped-over old men but the jackets never look good on them. I don't think I've ever seen a low- or mid-level OTR jacket that fit perfectly on anyone. One cut fits all will not fit anyone perfectly. It's a combination of the stiff shoulder construction and the lighter more nervous fabrics. You get what you get.

I'd rather have your posture than be a slumped-over old man. I would live with it. I think it looks fine as is. You roll the dice if you take it in for alterations at a dry cleaners or some such place. Odds are good such work will not improve these issues. I've had "very good" and "master" tailors ruin jackets. Either they don't know what they are doing, or they are under pressure to get their jobs done quickly. They can shorten sleeves and hem pants reliably but for more complicated work, I would not risk it. Maybe you have better tailors near DC. Still I don't think you can't expect a bespoke fit from a cheaper off-the-rack jacket.

Also never wear that jacket with black pants. Far and away, that is the biggest problem with this picture.

 

[bellyhungry]

Originally Posted by Dewey

...Also never wear that jacket with black pants. Far and away, that is the biggest problem with this picture.

It is a nice and versatile SC requiring only minimal nips and tucks by a tailor to finish it.

Also agreed with above re wearing it with black pants.

 

[Threadbearer]

Originally Posted by jrd617

Maybe a tailor can take it in the slightest bit in the waist and clean up the back.
Once again, I don't see how taking it in, rather than letting it out, is going to keep it from riding up my arse.

Originally Posted by Dewey

Looks like both your shoulders are sloped.
Definitely.

Originally Posted by Dewey

I would live with it. Any tailor capable of fixing this has better things to do than to work on a $400 BB jacket.
Really? I would think that this is exactly the kind of work that keeps alterations tailors in business.

Originally Posted by Dewey

You roll the dice if you take it in for alterations at a dry cleaners or some such place.
Nah. I've got a really good guy who has fixed up many an OTR jacket for me. All he does is alterations, and he's not working out of the back of a dry cleaner. That said, I get better results when I go to him with suggestions that I've gleaned from SF fit critiques.

Originally Posted by Dewey

Also never wear that jacket with black pants. Far and away, that is the biggest problem with this picture.
For the record, those slacks are dark brown with a faint plaid pattern, and they rock this look when photographed in better lighting. See for yourself: http://www.styleforum.net/showpost.p...ostcount=24390

Originally Posted by bellyhungry

Also agreed with above re wearing it with black pants.
I'm an SF regular, bh. I don't own any black slacks.

 

[Doxe]

TB,

When I go to the tailors with a SC that has these issues we normally take in some of the excess fabric from the center seam in the back. Maybe a touch from each side as well. The net result is that it cleans up the back by reducing the amount of fabric that is available to pool in the small of my back. I've found that this reduces the shelving effect. Sometimes this has the effect of flaring the vents a bit. It depends on the weight of the fabric.

When you go to the tailor, get him to pin the suit and see what results you get. I'm betting that taking the excess fabric away will work for you.

One of the reasons I use a custom tailor for my suits is my erect stance and long neck. I've tried on most OTR makers, from high end to low, and I've found that the Samuelsohn "Gable" body (which I'd say is on the lower end, at least in terms of price) fit me best. I'd like to meet the fit model they use.

Whenever I complain to salesmen about the cut of a suit they always explain that the "target" customer for that brand is older. The "cut" is targeted at that demographic. That's one reason why Hickey Freeman is so baggy in the belly - the suits are cut for older, fatter men.

 

[Threadbearer]

Originally Posted by Doxe

I've found that this reduces the shelving effect. Sometimes this has the effect of flaring the vents a bit.
Yeah. The vents are already flaring just a tad, so maybe I'd be tempting fate to have this SC altered. Perhaps I'll return it and save up for a MTM jacket that's similar.

When you go to the tailor, get him to pin the suit and see what results you get. I'm betting that taking the excess fabric away will work for you.

I'll give that a try before returning it.

I've found that the Samuelsohn "Gable" body (which I'd say is on the lower end, at least in terms of price) fit me best. I'd like to meet the fit model they use.

Be careful what you wish for. The two of you coming together may tear a hole in the space-time continuum or something.

Thanks again for all your assistance.