saville row choices

[jasonmarshalljazz]

if you could pick any saville row tailor, who would it be and why?

 

[dopey]

Originally Posted by jasonmarshalljazz

if you could pick any saville row tailor, who would it be and why?

I have used and use several.
I have always wanted to try A&S and Huntsman, though they are entirely different. But that is as much for the experience of that particular kind of suit, not necessarily because I think it is what I will want to wear all the time.

The more rational approach is to try to understand the general look you want. Savile Row has great tailors who can turn out a superb product, but it helps to match your preferred style with their specialty.
Beware of the internet - the fad of the moment comes and goes and it is easy to have your preferences knocked around by the hot traveling tailor of the moment.

Manton did a great post on silhouettes that you should be able to find, and it described the various looks and which tailors specialize in them. It is much better than what I could turn out if I tried to redo it here.

 

[Ich_Dien]

Dege & Skinner to me is the best cut on the row. I like the strong shoulders and heavy waist suppression they offer with their military history.

 

[dopey]

Originally Posted by jimmyoneill

Dege & Skinner to me is the best cut on the row. I like the strong shoulders and heavy waist suppression they offer with their military history.
I have been a Dege and then a Dege & Skinner customer for many, many years. I think their cut is excellent and very much to my taste. Whether they have the best cut on the row is entirely subjective, though.

 

[thaumaturgist]

I would agree with dopey in respects if finding a Savile row tailor that would essentially match your preferences and style choices.
'The more rational approach is to try to understand the general look you want. Savile Row has great tailors who can turn out a superb product, but it helps to match your preferred style with their specialty'-Dopey

I have tried three tailors of the distinguished 'Row':

H Huntsman & Sons. My first foray into bespoke tailoring and a wonderful experience it was, indeed. I had a Holland & Sherry 8/9 oz (could also be 8/10z) Flannel suit made in their recognizable house style.

Single breasted, single button front fastening, slanted pockets with ticket pocket and a very waisted shape which at the time of wearing was wonderful and is now precisely why my handsome teenage son, has taken possession of the suit which no longer fits me and has put it to better use, than I wished I could have had the opportunity and experience in wearing.

It was absolutely beautiful and still is in good condition. I must have had 6-7 fittings and although for ones first experience in bespoke tailoring, it remember it become quite time consuming and ones patience was often tested, however on the final fitting, it was like finally getting to the top of a mountain and being able to scream with achievement. Although a positive experience an expensive experience also and certainly humbling after parting with the cheque.
However this was the first of 4 further lovely suits I had commissioned to the reputed firm.

Overall a good experience, time consuming yes, but after ones initial fittings, the experience became much easier to deal with and more appreciative. One can never go back to having ready to wear or off the rack suits after having your first bespoke suit. Especially from a well known Tailor on the 'Row'.

My Second experience was with MD Mr Andrew Ramroop of Maurice Sedwell. Serving my more flamboyant choice of style. What I appreciated with Andrew, was that he was quite expressive in terms of colour and being more unique in his style in using colour and both style together in comparison to the other tailors on the Row adopting a more classic look. This may have been due to his Trinidadian roots as he informed me. Irrespective to this, he certainly wasn't distatesteful, and I feel still is the King of the more expressive movement in tailoring, which so called tailors as Ozwald Boeteng & Richard James, like to receive glory for and certainly lack the understanding of producing a quality product, although I'm sure others on this forum would disagree with me...

I had a beautiful evening suit, in lightweight Black Birdseye, which I believe was of an Italian cloth, may be also of a lesser known Mill and not your usual Loro Piana of sorts, possibly Guabello.

It was a suit was Single breasted, 2 button front fastening, hacking pockets of a more unusual shape with ticket pocket and Peak Lapels. The Jackets Lapels had black piping all around the edges, as well as on the welt pocket and on the top edges of jacket pocket flaps also. Although certainly not OTT quite discreet. The lining inside was black with silver inlays and again with black and white piping. The trousers were flat fronted with a 1 3/4'' cuff turn up.

Overall I was very happy with the result, and needed much less fittings than at Huntsman although the price wasn't that far off from what I had paid at No 11 Savile Row. I had 3 more suits made with Andrew, 1 further Black White Chalk Stripe, 1 Olive green & Lastly 1 Navy Window Pain Check. The service was good and one felt at ease in the shop surroundings and much less as being part of an institution, as one felt in Huntsman.

Most recently Comelie London. Once situated on Savile Row, although to my knowledge and experience in dealing with the firm and having fittings on their premises on the Row their atelier (workshop) is still based there as are all the bespoke suits still being made in London.

The firm is now based in Dubai, and Shakil Siddiqui MD of the company, is quite gratifyingly serving British expatriate clients like myself as well as U.S. and of course well heeled Arab Local Communities.

As a result of having had well versed and positive learning experiences in the previous two established bespoke tailoring firms, it was easier to reflect and compare upon the service and quality of the bespoke suits I would receive from Comelie London and to those I had hanging in my wardrobe.

To my content, so far anyway (fingers crossed) my dealing with Comelie London has been my most rewarding experience to date, with any Savile Row establishment. Surprised... so was I.

As very few people know of the company or of its, IMHO thorough and beautiful handmade workmanship or elegant style. Previously I had found the workmanship and handwork of Huntsman and Maurice Sedwell to be beautiful and clean. I have found the handwork in my Comelie London suits to be outstanding and quite exquisite.

Style wise, I find Shakil's style to be more eclectic and not so conformed to a particular house style, in comparison to my other suit styles and tailors. Although it has a very soft structure in the jacket, similar to my Maurice Sedwell suits, possibly even softer and has a suppressed shape in the jacket waistline with high arm holes, with either a strong rope shoulder, which IMO almost looks like a Huntsman and my most recent bespoke I had commissioned from a Super 150s Holland & Sherry Dragonfly bunch fabric, has a soft Neapolitan shoulder, which is what I requested. A two button front fastening, Single breasted, peak lapels, straight flap pockets with my standard ticket pocket. A nice waist suppression in the jacket, but not OTT as was with my H Huntsman Suits, however partly my fault of also putting on weight over the years I admit.
Apart from the beautiful bespoke suits, what is even more notable, is the personal style recommendations from Shakil very informative and clearly from someone whom possesses a lot of knowledge and passion in his art and seeks the opinion of his client. Not something which was often cared for AS MUCH from my previous tailors I must add positively, as much as I have received from Shakil Siddiqui's consultative advice...

Overall: Superior Attention to details accompanied with an elegant shape and beautifully light and comfortable construction is what I'm paying for here, and comparably it's not any cheaper in price, to my other Savile Row situated firms. Although admittedly I have commissioned higher thread count fabrics, starting with a 150s and most recently 180s and 200s from Piacenza, so it is slightly more difficult to make an investment comparison, as my previous suits. However I honestly feel I'm receiving what I pay for and strongly hope other members of the forum learn and become recipients of this....UN found treasure of quality and service which would certainly unite other members in this singing praises for Comelie London.

Best Wishes

John

 

[SPQR]

Ich_Dien

Do you have any photos of your Dege suits you would be willing to share?

Thanks,
SPQR

 

[Ich_Dien]

I'm sorry, all I do for the time being is stare forlornly at the mannequins on the Row (and A&S), Senatus Populusque Romanus. I'm sure a few others would gladly oblige.