Savile row different silhouettes and cuts

[lasbar]

I'm a great fan of Brioni or Attolini slhouettes and i do want to go for an England bespoke suit later on this year....

I'm actually getting all prices for bespoke suit from different tailors...

If you must class Savile row tailors by silhouette from uber structured to draped:

EDE&RAVENSCROFT,DEGE&SKINNER,KILGOUR: Uber structured ...A lot of shape and veri defined silhouette...

HENRY POOLE,HUNSTMAN: Quite structured...

Anderson&sheppard: More drape...

First quote from DEGE :£2400 +VTA

 

[whnay.]

.....

 

[RJman]

Originally Posted by lasbar

If you must class Savile row tailors by silhouette from uber structured to draped:

EDE&RAVENSCROFT,DEGE&SKINNER,KILGOUR: Uber structured ...A lot of shape and veri defined silhouette...

HENRY POOLE,HUNSTMAN: Quite structured...

No.

 

[Cantabrigian]

This has been pretty well hashed out on Ask Andy many times before.

I'd say that if you like those RTW styles, either go for Rubinacci Naples or London (wherever Mariano is at the time) or Caraceni Rome.

 

[RJman]

Or Sergio Georgini.

 

[SoCal2NYC]

If you're getting bespoke shouldn't you get exactly what you want and not go to a house that is going to influence the cut of the suit?

 

[Cantabrigian]

From what I've read, all tailors / houses have a general style and that the chance of failure increases proportionally with deviation from that. The possible exception being Frank Shattuck.

FWIW, I think it's a lot easier to go into the process just asking them to do what they're known for and specifying incidental details - pocket style, 2/3 button, etc. Rather than trying to talk about more fundamental things like the type of canvas and shoulder padding.

 

[edmorel]

Originally Posted by SoCal2NYC

If you're getting bespoke shouldn't you get exactly what you want and not go to a house that is going to influence the cut of the suit?

Well, certain places specialize in certain cuts so you need to find the place that bests does what you are looking for, rather than trying to get a tailor to adjust his specialty to your tastes. It's like looking for a Heidi Slimane type suit at Lanvin or something. Anyway, the OP says he likes Brioni and Attolini which are a bit different in cut. My suggestion, and I am one of the few here that ever suggests this, is that if either of those fits you well OTR, stick with it and simply get basic adjustments at an alterations guy. I would say that about 10-20% of the bespoke pieces that I see posted here are things that I would consider spending money on and that look obviously better than RTW. The rest look and fit just like RTW at best, and at worst look like a big waste of money. There are a lot more bad tailors out there then there are bad RTW (at the top end).

 

[TCN]

Is there a site or a forum post anywhere that shows pictures of the different Savile Row makers' jackets, to compare the cut?

 

[whnay.]

I'm in ur silhouettes ******* with ur shoulder padz

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by lasbar

I'm a great fan of Brioni or Attolini slhouettes and i do want to go for an England bespoke suit later on this year....

I'm actually getting all prices for bespoke suit from different tailors...

If you must class Savile row tailors by silhouette from uber structured to draped:

EDE&RAVENSCROFT,DEGE&SKINNER,KILGOUR: Uber structured ...A lot of shape and veri defined silhouette...

HENRY POOLE,HUNSTMAN: Quite structured...

Anderson&sheppard: More drape...

First quote from DEGE :£2400 +VTA

I'm perplexed. You're seeking prices for every tailor in London (English or not) before you even know whose tailoring approach you prefer. If you most liked the look of an A & S suit, would you go with Kilgour to save a few hundred dollars? All the tailors you're talking about are expensive; it's hard to imagine how small price differences could sway you from one style to a completely different one.

Why do you need to know the typical style of every tailor in London? Which style do you prefer? If you could answer that, then maybe someone could point you in the right direction.

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by TCN

Is there a site or a forum post anywhere that shows pictures of the different Savile Row makers' jackets, to compare the cut?

There was a really old post on AskAndy with photos of jackets and suits from all the major Savile Row players. Lemme see if I can dig it up.

 

[gdl203]

A Harris had an epic post here with links to dozens of his previous suit auction pictures, organized by maker. I'm afraid most of the pics are not hosted anymore. That was extremely educative while it lasted

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by gdl203

A Harris had an epic post here with links to dozens of his previous suit auction pictures, organized by maker. I'm afraid most of the pics are not hosted anymore. That was extremely educative while it lasted

Yep, that's the post I was talking about. And the pics are definitely gone.

 

[Cantabrigian]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

There was a really old post on AskAndy with photos of jackets and suits from all the major Savile Row players. Lemme see if I can dig it up.
Scott's posts in the epic Savile Row Style thread on AAAC were sadly lost in one of the migrations.

I think I PDFed some of it - I'll look tonight to see if that really is the case.