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Sartorio by Kiton at Pitti Uomo 85

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by unbelragazzo, Mar 11, 2014.

  1. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Well-Known Member

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    A bright spotlight shines on each Kiton mannequin. Literally. The suits seem to be made for admiration rather than use, destined for decades of duty as a sartorial prosthesis in the closet of some Russian oligarch, with perhaps the unluckier members of the litter smuggled off the market through discount backchannels, finally to end up in a Tumblweed selfie, garnering 12 "notes", coveted each and every one, but not, alas, the elusive-yet-ubiquitous "#Menswear" hashtag.

    Sartorio's booth is more approachable. They manage to create the impression of suits with just some draped fabric and a lapel sketched in chalk, which is a neat trick. I was told that the tailor who did the displays spent about ten minutes on each one, which gives you an idea of the facility these guys have imagining cloth in three dimensions.

    In other cloth tricks, witness this feat of tailoring achieved in a double-faced cloth. There is absolutely no canvassing or padding inside this jacket. What looks like a seam here isn't actually two distinct pieces of cloth sewn together - the cloth is pinched together and sewn on itself, like an interior dart.

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    By comparing the different makes of Sartorio jackets, you can start to get a sense of what canvas does. The deconstructed jackets hang on their pegs limply - the lapels have little structure because they're nothing holding them up but cloth. This gives the advantage of increased comfort and something to brag about to your iFriends, but it also means the jacket has less shape. The jackets with some guts have some shape even while hanging on a hook.

    Sartorio does not have as bright of a spotlight shining on it as does Kiton, the flagship brand of all Southern Italy. But a ship is a heavy thing to carry on your back when you're trying to get through a day of wearing coat and tie.

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    From the Kiton stand.

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    Last edited: Mar 11, 2014
    4 people like this.
  2. Cedric

    Cedric Well-Known Member

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    Awesome! Whats the price range on these babies?
     
  3. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Well-Known Member

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    Not cheap. Depends on the fabric yada yada but SCs probably around $3k.
     
  4. thegreatgatsby

    thegreatgatsby Well-Known Member

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    In a world of peacocking, subtlety is nice.
     
    Last edited: Mar 11, 2014
  5. The_Foxx

    The_Foxx Well-Known Member

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    awesome. big fan of sartorio suits
     
  6. othertravel

    othertravel Well-Known Member

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    Sartorio trunk show in Toronto in 2 weeks!
     
  7. archetypal_yuppie

    archetypal_yuppie Well-Known Member

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    Where in NYC does one find Sartorio?
     
  8. SartodiNapoli

    SartodiNapoli Well-Known Member

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    jaja i work daily where those are made.
     
  9. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Well-Known Member

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    In NYC, Barneys carries Sartorio (or at least they did a season ago)
     
  10. HighToned

    HighToned Well-Known Member

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    Very nice pictures. Thank you for sharing !
     
  11. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Well-Known Member

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    nice post UBR
     
    1 person likes this.
  12. The_Foxx

    The_Foxx Well-Known Member

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    yep, still carried at barneys and the newest incarnation of Sartorio for barneys is really great: here's my latest from them and an item liked but couldn't swing at the moment


     
  13. othertravel

    othertravel Well-Known Member

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    You might want to check out the pricing at Robert Jones in Toronto. With the Canadian dollar losing value, you might be able to save money by getting it through them.
     
  14. othertravel

    othertravel Well-Known Member

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    Nice piece! Do you mind if I ask how much their mtm option is?
     
  15. The_Foxx

    The_Foxx Well-Known Member

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    thanks! i think it is possible to find MTM for around $3800-4K, depending on person you work with and timeframe near trunk shows, etc.
     
  16. archetypal_yuppie

    archetypal_yuppie Well-Known Member

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    Thanks, I guess I will finally check out Barneys
     
  17. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Well-Known Member

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    ^Yuppie - my advice on Barneys would be to be very, very wary of the in-house tailors. If you end up buying, stick with something that only requires very simple alteration (like cuffing a pair of pants) or be ready to take it to a tailor that you can trust. The in-house tailoring services leave something to be desired.
     
    1 person likes this.
  18. archetypal_yuppie

    archetypal_yuppie Well-Known Member

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    Funny that you should say that. I've been there once, in 2005. Got a suit, and was very unhappy with the alterations work. Haven't been back since.
     
  19. The_Foxx

    The_Foxx Well-Known Member

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    agreed-- in house are no good. my guy at barneys has his personally recommended tailor do all the work, to include functional buttonholes, and turns it around really fast for me. his tailor has my cc# handy, and charges me for the expert tailoring

     
  20. archetypal_yuppie

    archetypal_yuppie Well-Known Member

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    Anyone have any Sartorio stuff? Thoughts about it? Reasons I want to check it out are 1) looks high quality 2) looks unstructured & therefore casual.
     

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