Sartorio by Kiton at Pitti Uomo 85

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by unbelragazzo, Mar 11, 2014.

  1. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    A bright spotlight shines on each Kiton mannequin. Literally. The suits seem to be made for admiration rather than use, destined for decades of duty as a sartorial prosthesis in the closet of some Russian oligarch, with perhaps the unluckier members of the litter smuggled off the market through discount backchannels, finally to end up in a Tumblweed selfie, garnering 12 "notes", coveted each and every one, but not, alas, the elusive-yet-ubiquitous "#Menswear" hashtag.

    Sartorio's booth is more approachable. They manage to create the impression of suits with just some draped fabric and a lapel sketched in chalk, which is a neat trick. I was told that the tailor who did the displays spent about ten minutes on each one, which gives you an idea of the facility these guys have imagining cloth in three dimensions.

    In other cloth tricks, witness this feat of tailoring achieved in a double-faced cloth. There is absolutely no canvassing or padding inside this jacket. What looks like a seam here isn't actually two distinct pieces of cloth sewn together - the cloth is pinched together and sewn on itself, like an interior dart.

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    By comparing the different makes of Sartorio jackets, you can start to get a sense of what canvas does. The deconstructed jackets hang on their pegs limply - the lapels have little structure because they're nothing holding them up but cloth. This gives the advantage of increased comfort and something to brag about to your iFriends, but it also means the jacket has less shape. The jackets with some guts have some shape even while hanging on a hook.

    Sartorio does not have as bright of a spotlight shining on it as does Kiton, the flagship brand of all Southern Italy. But a ship is a heavy thing to carry on your back when you're trying to get through a day of wearing coat and tie.

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    From the Kiton stand.

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    Last edited: Mar 11, 2014
  2. Cedric

    Cedric Senior member

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    Awesome! Whats the price range on these babies?
     
  3. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    Not cheap. Depends on the fabric yada yada but SCs probably around $3k.
     
  4. thegreatgatsby

    thegreatgatsby Senior member

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    In a world of peacocking, subtlety is nice.
     
    Last edited: Mar 11, 2014
  5. The_Foxx

    The_Foxx Senior member

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    awesome. big fan of sartorio suits
     
  6. othertravel

    othertravel Senior member

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    Sartorio trunk show in Toronto in 2 weeks!
     
  7. archetypal_yuppie

    archetypal_yuppie Senior member

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    Where in NYC does one find Sartorio?
     
  8. SartodiNapoli

    SartodiNapoli Senior member

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  9. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Senior member

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    In NYC, Barneys carries Sartorio (or at least they did a season ago)
     
  10. HighToned

    HighToned Senior member

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    Very nice pictures. Thank you for sharing !
     
  11. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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  12. The_Foxx

    The_Foxx Senior member

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    yep, still carried at barneys and the newest incarnation of Sartorio for barneys is really great: here's my latest from them and an item liked but couldn't swing at the moment


     
  13. othertravel

    othertravel Senior member

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    You might want to check out the pricing at Robert Jones in Toronto. With the Canadian dollar losing value, you might be able to save money by getting it through them.
     
  14. othertravel

    othertravel Senior member

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    Nice piece! Do you mind if I ask how much their mtm option is?
     
  15. The_Foxx

    The_Foxx Senior member

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    thanks! i think it is possible to find MTM for around $3800-4K, depending on person you work with and timeframe near trunk shows, etc.
     

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