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Sartoriale = Official Affiliate Vendor thread

Aquafortis

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ikir

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That’s the thing - shoulders are one of the most important to fit right - rest can be altered
 

Aquafortis

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That’s the thing - shoulders are one of the most important to fit right - rest can be altered
Yes. What I was getting at is that the other measurements are not indicative of a size 42.
 

sartoriale

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That’s the thing - shoulders are one of the most important to fit right - rest can be altered
Shoulder measurements can be deceptive as well! It is like the outsole measurement of a shoe...

You can have many good fitting jackets, with many different shoulder measurements, depending on the shoulder style and the amount of padding, etc.

For your reference the model on the picture is a size 48, and he has a very athletic body: https://www.sartoriale.com/collections/new-products/products/sartoria-castangia-1850-brown-herringbone-striped-wool-jacket-eu-48-new-us-38
 

ikir

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Shoulder measurements can be deceptive as well! It is like the outsole measurement of a shoe...

You can have many good fitting jackets, with many different shoulder measurements, depending on the shoulder style and the amount of padding, etc.

For your reference the model on the picture is a size 48, and he has a very athletic body: https://www.sartoriale.com/collections/new-products/products/sartoria-castangia-1850-brown-herringbone-striped-wool-jacket-eu-48-new-us-38

Maybe... I am US38, I am for shoulders to be 17.75" - and most of jackets that I've own are US38 and have shoulders < 18" - shoulders first measurement I look at when shopping online.
 

sartoriale

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Maybe... I am US38, I am for shoulders to be 17.75" - and most of jackets that I've own are US38 and have shoulders < 18" - shoulders first measurement I look at when shopping online.
If you like something on our site and other measurements look good, I would recommend to try it! We have a 30 day return policy.
Please let us know, if you are interested in any particular item and we can give a hand on description, detailed photos, or re-check the measurements.
 
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MarkWinter

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Interesting article on the Guardian about the current landscape of dress for men: https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2019/oct/20/the-new-workwear-has-the-suit-finally-died

David Coggins on comfort: “It used to be accepted that you would go through stages of slight discomfort to have an education. So you would read difficult books, or you’d sit through some operas, and maybe the first time you didn’t like it, but you would learn to like it – or at least appreciate what it is at stake. Now there’s this thought that comfort is everything. People dress as if they’re at home all the time, and they act like they’re at home when they’re in public. It’s why people lie down on the floor in airports and Facetime in restaurants and put their feet up on train seats.”

It's really over the limit what people get away with in public these days. Like somebody doing aerobic while waiting in the post office.

Another comment was made by powerful people only wearing suits when they are in trouble, like Mark Zuckerberg. This is certainly bad for the reputation of the suit, because poweful people wearing suits these days are compromised (Trump, Boris Johnson etc.) . This combined with the whole comfort issue is what makes people more careless about being proper and showing respect in their environment.

What's your take on the subject? Do you agree with the message of menswear bloggers who say that dressing formal is a way of rebelling these days ???
 

MarkWinter

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Aquafortis

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Nice jackets. Great pricing. Again, a little wide in the shoulder at almost 19". How do these D'Avenza fit? How high are the armscyes?
 

Mute

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I find the armscyes on D'Avenza to be reasonably high enough to allow moving your arms without any pulling but not so tight that it feels binding. IOW, very nicely executed. They also have some of the cleanest and most nicely structured shoulders on any jackets I've seen. As far as sizing, I find they fit true to size. I'm a 36 and a 36 D'Avenza fits very close without need for too many adjustments. Definitely none that are major like the shoulder or chest.
 

MarkWinter

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Nice jackets. Great pricing. Again, a little wide in the shoulder at almost 19". How do these D'Avenza fit? How high are the armscyes?
I can only agree with Mute regarding the fit. Well structured shoulders, high armscyes and clean chest. You can see on the pictures above that the armholes are quite high, they are in good proportion with the chest size. It lends itself to a slim appearance without aggressive waist suppression.

I would check the total length measurements as the D'avenza jackets we have are a bit longer than the standard today.

Overall it's a nice, classic fit.
 
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MarkWinter

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Check out our Ebay auctions over at the SARTORIALE Outlet store. Lot's of bargains to be found like bespoke Rubinacci tailoring or Turnbull and Asser shirts. Ending tonight!!

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MarkWinter

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A wide assortment of Sartoria Castangia suits are now online. Expertly tailored by hand, in the finest Italian and British wools, the quality of Castangia is very rare to find in RTW these days. Especially for these prices.

I shared my opinion on our Castangia pieces in the relevant thread, I'll post it again below, to explain their value:

Best examples of classic tailoring are created with the mindset that certain clothes are for certain social functions, which dictate their material and construction. Most of the Castangia pieces were created with this philosophy in mind. What I mean by this is that a business suit in a four season worsted will have light padding and some rope in the shoulders, and more shape in the body (you can call this an Italian power look) while a sportcoat in a textured/patterned fabric will have soft shoulders and even lighter canvassing for comfort and ease.

All the pieces are really well thought through and executed beautifully and with taste. Classic taste. In both Castangia threads here members mentioned the high manufacturing standards, I can only attest to that. What I find important to add is specifically the cut and shape of the jackets. The combination of a slim waist (buttoning point just right) with a nice, rounded chest and high armholes results in a very flattering look. This all comes down to clever cutting and the use of canvasses and stitching. Real hand tailoring, very rarely seen in RTW anymore. I find this much more important than handsewn buttonholes (which only few Castangia pieces have).

The high standard is kept up in the fabric offering too. By touching the pieces you can feel that some of the fabrics feel particularly luxurious while some of them are sturdy with great crease resistance and recovery. I cannot emphasize it enough that all the fabrics are made up in a cut and with details which are most suitable for the style and feel of the cloth. By inspecting these pieces you can imagine a tailor's mind working when he receives a bolt of fabric. " Who is the customer, a banker or an artist? On which occasions is this piece going to be worn and where?" So instead of a generic house style, each garment is created with a unique idea in mind, resulting in some truly special tailoring.

CASTANGIA 1850 GRAY CHALK STRIPED WOOL-CASHMERE FLANNEL SUIT


CASTANGIA_1850_Gray_Chalk_Striped_Wool-Cashmere_Suit_EU_53_NEW_US_42_4311_1024x1024.jpg


CASTANGIA_1850_Gray_Chalk_Striped_Wool-Cashmere_Suit_EU_53_NEW_US_42_435_1024x1024.jpg

SARTORIA CASTANGIA BROWN PLAID CASHMERE-WOOL SUPER 160'S SUIT

SARTORIA_CASTANGIA_Brown_Plaid_Cashmere-Wool_Super_160_s_Suit_EU_48_NEW_US_387_1024x1024.jpg


SARTORIA_CASTANGIA_Brown_Plaid_Cashmere-Wool_Super_160_s_Suit_EU_48_NEW_US_382_1024x1024.jpg


CASTANGIA 1850 GRAY STRIPED DOUBLE BREASTED BUSINESS SUIT

CASTANGIA_1850_Gray_Striped_Wool_Double_Breasted_Business_Suit_EU_50_NEW_US_407_1024x1024.jpg


CASTANGIA_1850_Gray_Striped_Wool_Double_Breasted_Business_Suit_EU_50_NEW_US_402_1024x1024.jpg

CASTANGIA 1850 BLUE WOOL-MOHAIR SUIT

CASTANGIA_1850_Royal_Blue_Wool-Mohair_Suit_EU_52_NEW_US_427_1024x1024.jpg
 

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MarkWinter

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Wishing a spooky Halloween weekend to all Styleforum users with a 20% off promotion!!! Check out our latest arrivals from Sartoria Castangia and Chiaia Napoli. Rare treats to be found!

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