Sartorial mythbusting

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by apropos, Jan 12, 2010.

  1. jefferyd

    jefferyd Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Did I leave anything out?


    That Jeffery ripped open an old (and thus non representative of the current state of things) suit, was horrified by the make but intrigued and titillated by the cut, and concede that they could possibly make a nice suit.
     


  2. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    That Jeffery ripped open an old (and thus non representative of the current state of things) suit, was horrified by the make but intrigued and titillated by the cut, and concede that they could possibly make a nice suit.

    I know that A&S (and all their diaspora) make very "long and loose" pad sticthes on the lapels, stitches that appear lazy to any other tailor. Anything else?
     


  3. jefferyd

    jefferyd Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    [​IMG]

    Click pic.


    - B


    Click pic.
     


  4. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    Unless this is written tongue and cheek (your tongue, someone else's cheeks) it displays a detachment from reality.[​IMG]

    Oh, Bunny...you try so hard sometimes. It's cute.


    - B
     


  5. George

    George Senior member

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    This was funny, a bit mean and rather accurate.[​IMG]

    It was a joke! But, you knew that...!!!

    Bad bunny....[​IMG]
     


  6. jefferyd

    jefferyd Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    To Matt's excellent point, there is too much Twilight Zone going on here and not enough STYLEforum.

    Cheers

    M Alden
    Co-conspirator
    www.dresswithstyle.com


    I would add, though, that if your videos, which I am very pleased to see, venture away from matters of style, in which you excel, to matters technical, as they did, it is only fair to expect a rebuttal. That was, after all, the point of this thread.
     


  7. Film Noir Buff

    Film Noir Buff Senior member

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    Oh, Bunny...you try so hard sometimes. It's cute. - B
    Thanks. It's not as cute as watching the ignorant congratulate each other on their expertise but thanks all the same.[​IMG] And speaking of trying too hard, defending the drape style (which I realize doesnt need any defense because it is alternatively the most common and most exclusive of silhouettes[​IMG]) by accusing people of "hate" is curious if only because it's unclear what results are expected by this strategy. I remember a few years ago, the same people were swearing up and down that it wasn't true about A&S's sloppy approach to cutting, now the jibber jabber has moved on to "Well let's not dwell on the recent past"
     


  8. Film Noir Buff

    Film Noir Buff Senior member

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    It was a joke! But, you knew that...!!! Bad bunny....[​IMG]
    Oh, I thought the whole thread was a joke?[​IMG]
     


  9. Fuuma

    Fuuma Franchouillard Modasse

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    The very fact that drape attracts as much controversy and emotive discussion is in itself very odd. It's just one period cutting style. Just one. It went out of fashion decades ago, and by all rights should be obscure period costume by now fit for eccentric film noir era retronostalgics who want to look like walking Apparel Arts fashion plates. Nothing wrong with that of course. Yet on the internet suddenly, far from it being a minority interest, people take sides in "drape wars" as though it were black and white, one half vs the other. That in itself suggests that drape is being, in Des Merrion's words, "rammed down people's throats". I think it is because tailors are getting these internet informed potential clients all primed up with this buzz word "drape" all over the world. It is a real phenomenon. It is the power of the internet. It needs to be questioned if only to give a more balanced perspective of things.

    Hmm, no. Some of the branded tailors specialize in this cut and they are still popular to this day, nothing to do with the internet.
     


  10. mmkn

    mmkn Senior member

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    From a stylistic point of view, I don't like drape cuts . . .

    . . . I don't like is when a tailor sends a client out of the shop with a poorly tailored suit and that can happen irrespective of whatever 'school' of tailoring the tailor belongs too or believes in.


    Well said Fred, I mean, George.

    In my eyes Drape works well if one had the absolute perfect posture of a ballroom dancer and move like one, like Fred Astaire. Otherwise, I think most peeps need some structure . . . But then, booty is in the eyes of the beholder.

    Your sentences above summarize the discussion well. Where things get "Yoohooo!" is when folks mix the two.

    - M
     


  11. Film Noir Buff

    Film Noir Buff Senior member

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    Hmm, no. Some of the branded tailors specialize in this cut and they are still popular to this day, nothing to do with the internet.
    If that's true, then what's the matter with people stating their contrary opinions?
     


  12. Fuuma

    Fuuma Franchouillard Modasse

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    If that's true, then what's the matter with people stating their contrary opinions?
    Huh? What I'm saying is that A&S and other drapists do not remain popular because of a few internet clients who duke it out on the forums with the anti-drapist league managed by 1930s reenactment champion Sutor. Oh and people like RJ or your archenemy Manton would still use A&S without the internutz. They know enough, RJ lived and travels to fashion capitals and I'm sure he didn't wait for the internet to discover, say, Charvet and the joy of Hermès accessories... Without the internet I'd still wear fashion labels like, say, Lanvin but probably (certainly) would not have had Julius pieces before they showed in Paris but that's beside the point...
     


  13. Film Noir Buff

    Film Noir Buff Senior member

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    Huh? What I'm saying is that A&S and other drapists do not remain popular because of a few internet clients who duke it out on the forums with the anti-drapist league managed by 1930s reenactment champion Sutor.
    Right, so if the drape suit is popular, then why are it's most ardent iSupporters running around, obsessively accusing people of hating the look? I daresay that is the truth. Further, I daresay that any popularity that the silhouette enjoys is a matter of misinformation gleaned from old style books. ANd whereas the style might be popular enough to keep a tailor shop or two going, the vast majority of tailors do not make this style and the drape suit has never caught on and been popular with men, mostly because it is a high maintenance item.
    Oh and people like RJ or your archenemy Manton would still use A&S without the internutz. They know enough, RJ lived and travels to fashion capitals and I'm sure he didn't wait for the internet to discover, say, Charvet and the joy of Hermès accessories...
    You speak of enemies, does any of this stuff we discuss matter or actually spill over into real life? If anyone takes these discussions seriously or gets angry over them, then I think that's a shame.
     


  14. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    Yes, there probably was a time. Fortunately, you can still see that today - in the work of Edwin DeBoise. He is Scholte's true heir. So once again, I will say: let those who are truly worthy of it get the rightful praise they have earned. Whether the drape cut is your taste, that's up to you, just like choosing between a fine Japanese or an Italian restaurant. However, Edwin is at that level where you can forget technical matters and just enjoy debating endlessly about taste.

    First wearing of a new DeBoise for your enjoyment.

    [​IMG]

    [click for supersize]


    - B
     


  15. George

    George Senior member

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    First wearing of a new DeBoise for your enjoyment.

    [​IMG]

    [click for supersize]


    - B


    Tell me a bit more about this.
     


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