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Sartorial London: The Official Thread (UPDATED 9/6/2012)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Aug 2, 2012.

  1. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I'm traveling to London at the end of the month. Never been. I thought we could start a series of threads for various cities well-known for classic menswear. London is clearly one such city. Personally, I'm not looking to spend a ton of money this trip and am not looking for a new tailor, but would love any and all suggestions.

    As a bonus, if you convince me to go somewhere, I will take pictures and post them when I get back.

    Initial thoughts: W. BIll and Drake's. I hope to pick-up an interesting tweed at the former. Savile Row is generally an obvious destination, but it would be great to know which shops are more okay to simply drop into to peruse.

    Let's go.
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. Wrenkin

    Wrenkin Senior member

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    Also Jermyn St., obviously. Nothing new here, but in the spirit of the late resurgence...

    If you're looking for some English souvenirs, perhaps take a look at the accessories at T&A, N&L, or Ede, or the less garish shops in the various arcades (those off Jermyn; Burlington; Royal). Drakes you could presumably buy online, but it's a nice little place. Or perhaps some toiletries/shaving items from one of Trumpers / Truefit / Taylor.

    Cordings is nice, but I don't know if you're really in the market for a pheasant tie. If you were, presumably internet bigshots go to Holland & Holland [edit: is it still there?].
     
    Last edited: Aug 2, 2012
  3. davesmith

    davesmith Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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  4. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Do they still have interesting pocket squares at H&H?
     
  5. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    Lobb bespoke shop in St. James street, also there is a famous company which makes excellent leather goods, but I forgot the name.

    I urge you to walk around in soho and have a glance of the 'soho' tailors, it is very interesting.

    For the causal side, take a look in Brick Lane near Liverpool High Street

    Enjoy your trip
     
  6. The Thin Man

    The Thin Man Senior member

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    I just pulled my Style and the Man (Flusser, 1996) off of the shelf. The places I'd like to know the current status of are:
    Asprey
    Budd
    Cleverley
    Holland & Holland
    Herbert Johnson and Lock (hats, just to look)
    Purdey (old hunting stuff)
    Swaine Adeney Brigg
     
    Last edited: Aug 2, 2012
  7. ballmouse

    ballmouse Senior member

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    I've heard good things about James Smith umbrellas.
     
  8. Wrenkin

    Wrenkin Senior member

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    Smith's is charming. With an accent they'll assume you're a SF-inspired tourist and they know all about boxing an umbrella for flight (if you're travelling up front you'll probably just be able to put it in the closet on the way back).

    Budd was remodeled last year. Nice ties. Lock is still there, Bates is now combined with Hilditch on the south side of Jermyn. I don't think Foo's hair would like a flatcap, but I can confirm they come in :foo: sizes. Swaine was having some trouble a few months ago according to reports here, but I've since moved back to North America so I'm not sure what is happening with them. Cleverly is close to Drakes so it's worth a visit. Maybe get yourself some slippers.

    In non-clothing advice, if I were there I would seek out the nearest flat white. Like a latte, but with less milk, and microfoamed. It's technically an Australian thing, but all baristas in London are ANZAC. If you're out by Brick Lane the best coffee is actually in a clothing store—Prufrock coffee on Shoreditch High St, in "Present". They sell some casual Japanese imports from Beams—hipster Americana with less American stuff. I liked Albam in Spitalfields Market better for that sorta thing. All made in England, very simple. I think their work was featured on Permanent Style. I bought a very simple card case there once in... :lookaround: green bridle.
     
  9. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    Will be heading to London end of the month as well. Anything else? Keep it coming.
     
  10. donnievoks

    donnievoks New Member

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    You can also try floral print on jeans, guess it will look cool. Summer Fashion Trends should be relaxed and peace to the eyes.
     
  11. Falgrim

    Falgrim Active Member

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    Many good independent coffee houses in London. I recommend Kaffeine or Tapped & Packed, both near Oxford Street, or Notes Music & Coffee. Also , Fortnum & Mason at Piccadilly.

    Not much to add about sartorial shops, although there are many department stores with menswear brands. Unless someone is looking for a particular brand, I would advice to stay away from Harrods during sale periods. It's a complete chaos.
     
  12. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    Sorry but coffee and London just doesn't go together.
     
  13. Jermyn

    Jermyn Senior member

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    You're OK to peruse most of the Savile Row shops; a couple like, Norton and Sons, don't offer any RTW so aren't really worth going in to unless you're looking to comission something.

    Huntsman is one of my particular favourites, Johnny is a charming fellow and always happy to discuss the finer points of tailoring.

    It is probably worth spending some time in places that don't have too much of a US presence.
    New and Lingwood always strikes me as being particularly British in its style. It is located next to the Brummel statue on Jermyn Street.

    If you were to plan a route for the day, I would get off at Bond Street station and walk down New Bond street (via S Molton Street or Molton Lane).
    Take a left at Clifford Street to visit Drakes
    Take a right and head down Savile row.
    Take a right and head down Burlington Gardens and Burlington Arcade.
    From here either head down the Burlington Arcade and towards Jermyn Street (stopping at Fortnum and Mason's) or make a detour to Cleverley on the Royal Arcade, heading to Jermyn Street from there.
    From Jermyn Street you can head to St James' Street, passing by Lobb and, of course, Berry Brothers and Rudd for a well earned, fortifying bottle of scotch to end the day.

    I work in the area and am happy to keep an eye out for you, if you have any particular items you are looking for.
     
  14. R.O. Thornhill

    R.O. Thornhill Senior member

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    Mafoofan - welcome to London, hope you have a great time. Should have quietened down a bit, post-Olympics, by the time you get here

    My recommended walking tour would be to start at the Regent Street end of Jermyn Street and walk down to St James', in particular taking in John Lobb Paris, Fosters (for the bespoke samples), Edward Green, T&A and Emma Willis (for a great selection of Drakes ties in 9cm width).

    Take a left down St James' and you will pass John Lobb London and James Lock just before you reach St James' Palace. I would also recommend a quick visit to Berry Bros wine merchant. Then head back up St James', take a right on Piccadilly - and walk on to Piccadilly Arcade where you will find Budd and Santa Maria Novella. Then cross the street and take in Burlington Arcade

    Burlington Arcade is becoming a little bit touristy - with Jimmy Choo for Men set to open - but it still has some wonderful watch shops, a great pen shop, as well as the Globetrotter shop. You'll be needing some more luggage...

    Coming out of Burlington Arcade, take a right - past the A&F monstrosity - pop down Old Burlington Street for A&S, and then back down again to get to Savile Row. Towards the end of the Row take a left down Clifford Street, where you will find Drakes (as well as possibly the new A&S haberdashery), Kiton and Lodger/Lutwyche. At Drakes, I find that the antique cufflinks and accessories collection is always worth a browse. Found some great abalone and rose gold links there a while back.

    Next I would suggest walking down Bond Street to get to the Royal Arcade and Cleverley. At this point you have done pretty much all of 'classical' sartorial London. A couple of potential additions would be:
    + Sackville Street (off Piccadilly) for Kent, Haste & Lachter, Meyer & Mortimer, and my own shirtmaker, Sean O'Flynn
    + Vigo Street (between Sackville Street and Savile Row) for swimwear at Orlebar Brown
    + James Smith umbrellas on New Oxford Street
    + Mount Street in Mayfair - not just for Rubinacci, but also for Haywards, where Richie Charlton (formerly of Kilgour) is cutting a great 1B coat. Also worth having lunch at Scott's

    I wouldn't bother with H&H - the last time I was there it was very uninspiring

    In terms of other places of interest
    + I would stop by Dukes Hotel for a martini. Either with the house Plymouth or with Berry Bros No 3 Gin. If you feel more adverturous try the Experimental Cocktail Club
    + Lunch at Scott's (above) or Wilton's on Jermyn Street (though it is sadly now closed on weekends), or even Franco's (also on Jermyn Street)
    + Have dinner at one of Hix's places - either the Brewer Street Soho restaurant, or at the Belgraves hotel. Alternatively, you could go for Italian at Polpo or Bocca di Lupo, or Locanda Locatelli (the best classical Italian in London)

    Have plenty of other suggestions, but this would be a good start

    R-O-T
     
  15. flatfront

    flatfront Senior member

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    Hope you have a great stay,

    Drakes is a great store and their ties account for about 80% of my collection now. For lovely casual clothing I really recommend Trunk Clothiers in Marylebone. It's a great store run by good people with a real passion for what they sell.

    Cleverley is a must too. The most beuatiful shoes in London hands down IMO.

    Food wise there are so many. Barrafina for great tapas on Frith St in Soho. For fine dining I think you have to go some way to beat The Ledbury in Nottng Hill.
     
  16. Infojunky

    Infojunky New Member

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    If your around Savile Row I would really reccomend you pop into Lutwyche on Clifford st Just off Savile Row. I work in the tailoring business and did 10 years on Savile row. Their mens tailoring is made in Crew England and are drafted by one of the most talented pattern cutters I have ever met and worked with. The fabrics and colours they use can be a little super English but you cannot fault the product. Both inside and out.
     
  17. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The Huntsman people are great to speak with, though I have never been to their shop in London. Patrick Murphy, their head cutter, knows a lot about tailoring and can put things in context. Peter Smith knows his cloth.
    Alan Bennett at Davies is a walking encyclopedia of Savile Row and tailoring history but I don't know how much time he would give you.
    The people I think you may find most interesting are Andrew Ramroop at Sedwell and his erstwhile cutter David Taube who is now at Kilgour (I think). Taube seems to be one of the new creative superstars on the Row.
    I think it is time you stepped up to the shoe plate. If you are going to be in London, see if you can be measured and have lasts made by Terry Moore at Foster & Son. Then you will be even more confident in using them when the come to the U.S. (I am sure other makers are fine, but I have no first hand experience on which to recommend them).
     
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  18. Wrenkin

    Wrenkin Senior member

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    I moved to London from Vancouver. At first everything I found was comparatively awful, but there is nice stuff to be found. As I said, don't buy it from someone with an English accent.

    Re Trunk, I never made it there but IIRC it's run by Tyler Brule's partner, so expect Monocle-approved looks. You'd be less interested in the fact that they are a UK distributor of J.Crew.
     
  19. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Basically, SR, Old Burlingnton, New Burlington, Conduit, Vigop, Jerymn, St. James, Burlington Arcade, Princess Arcade, Royal Arcade, Picadilly Arcade.

    All the SR shops sell accessories, so it's worth poking in for that.
     
    Last edited: Aug 3, 2012
  20. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    As you both probably already figure, I have no intention of putting in any bespoke orders at these tailors. I'm very sensitive to wasting their time dealing with someone who's just there to chat it up and maybe buy a pocket square. I've only had exposure to the bespoke worlds of Naples and New York, where I would not feel comfortable swinging by a tailor's shop without the intention to do real business. Is it any different in London?
     
    Last edited: Aug 3, 2012

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