Sartorial Color Photos From 1940 - A Look Back

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by bmulford, Aug 13, 2008.

  1. grimslade

    grimslade Senior member

    Messages:
    10,875
    Likes Received:
    36
    Joined:
    Mar 31, 2006
    Location:
    Back in Black
    Take a careful look at the "bum" on the far left and how the shoulder of his coat is cut.

    The shoulder seam appears angled backwards like this:
    This is a feature found today only on high end bespoke items. You will see it on a Rubinacci but not on an Attolini, Kiton, Brioni, Oxxford, or Borelli. It is a sign that the arm scye has been cut as a backwardly angled oval shape, to help make the scye depth as shallow as possible. It is also thought to make the collar snugger and improves the fit around the neck-shoulder area.


    This is hyperbole. You'll also find it on Vestimenta RTW, among other places. IIRC, David Chu might have done some of his shoulders that way the first year, but I couldn't swear to it.
     
  2. tlmusic

    tlmusic Senior member

    Messages:
    931
    Likes Received:
    2
    Joined:
    Jan 27, 2008
    Take a careful look at the "bum" on the far left and how the shoulder of his coat is cut.

    The shoulder seam appears angled backwards like this:

    [​IMG]


    Sator, that's a great observation. I have also noticed this feature on vintage clothing.

    This is a suit from the late 1940's:
    [​IMG]
    This is a feature found today only on high end bespoke items. You will see it on a Rubinacci but not on an Attolini, Kiton, Brioni, Oxxford, or Borelli.

    But wait! What's going on here? This is an Oxxford DB I bought on ebay new with tags--it has to be only a couple years old. It also has that kind of shoulder seam.
    [​IMG]
     
  3. luftvier

    luftvier Senior member

    Messages:
    3,919
    Likes Received:
    618
    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2008
    Location:
    Filthydelphia
    If only men still had such style.
     
  4. Sator

    Sator Senior member

    Messages:
    3,083
    Likes Received:
    29
    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2006
    Location:
    Sydney, Australia
    This is hyperbole. You'll also find it on Vestimenta RTW, among other places. IIRC, David Chu might have done some of his shoulders that way the first year, but I couldn't swear to it.

    I've personally never seen it on RTW. It is certainly possible but takes a bit more effort in the making up of the coat. It is an effort most makers won't make and certainly not any maker that a bum might wear today.
     
  5. spectre

    spectre Senior member

    Messages:
    1,025
    Likes Received:
    501
    Joined:
    Dec 2, 2006
    Location:
    Melbourne, Australia
    Bums, coats, seams...who cares. The pic of the girl is beautiful.
     
  6. crazyquik

    crazyquik Senior member

    Messages:
    9,082
    Likes Received:
    39
    Joined:
    May 8, 2007
    Location:
    Capital of Southern Elitism
    [​IMG]
     
  7. luftvier

    luftvier Senior member

    Messages:
    3,919
    Likes Received:
    618
    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2008
    Location:
    Filthydelphia
    ^^^ This picture makes me die a little inside.
     
  8. acidboy

    acidboy Senior member

    Messages:
    21,170
    Likes Received:
    1,740
    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2006
    [​IMG]

    That is one amazing picture of NY.
     
  9. rssmsvc

    rssmsvc Senior member

    Messages:
    2,058
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2006
    Those are awesome pics on the site, I got to see my town from 60+ years ago and the land where my college was built on before the school. I found this one funny, OUCH ! [​IMG] Favorite [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  10. R-H

    R-H Senior member

    Messages:
    439
    Likes Received:
    11
    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2007
    Old pictures are great. Here are a couple of pictures from my neighbourhood in 1907. Standards have changed somewhat. People don't even dress this well for weddings anymore. These people are going to a baseball game: [​IMG] I couldn't imagine buying tires from someone in a double breasted or three piece suit. Unreal: [​IMG]
     
  11. R-H

    R-H Senior member

    Messages:
    439
    Likes Received:
    11
    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2007
  12. tlmusic

    tlmusic Senior member

    Messages:
    931
    Likes Received:
    2
    Joined:
    Jan 27, 2008
    ...a few observations regarding the wonderful pictures on the site:

    ---love the floppy unfused collars

    ---many men really did wear brown shoes back in the 1940's.

    ---The people are really slender! There are not that many pot bellies. No fat girls on the beach. I wonder if the photographer deliberately took pictures of attractive subjects only.
     
  13. Sator

    Sator Senior member

    Messages:
    3,083
    Likes Received:
    29
    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2006
    Location:
    Sydney, Australia
    This man was ahead of his time. Anticipating the catwalk couture house styles of our time, he named his goat Dandy:

    [​IMG]

    This view of Regent St, London in 1961 is interesting. The man appears to be wearing a bowler hat:

    [​IMG]
     
  14. LabelKing

    LabelKing Senior member

    Messages:
    25,745
    Likes Received:
    238
    Joined:
    May 24, 2002
    Location:
    Constantinople
    How about this for women's daywear in San Francisco?

    [​IMG]
     
  15. Sator

    Sator Senior member

    Messages:
    3,083
    Likes Received:
    29
    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2006
    Location:
    Sydney, Australia
    Here is a street hawker in London:

    [​IMG]

    I wonder if you would see a crowd gathering dressed like this today.

    A "battery bum":

    [​IMG]

    Note the belted back on the coat.
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by