Take a careful look at the "bum" on the far left and how the shoulder of his coat is cut. The shoulder seam appears angled backwards like this: This is a feature found today only on high end bespoke items. You will see it on a Rubinacci but not on an Attolini, Kiton, Brioni, Oxxford, or Borelli. It is a sign that the arm scye has been cut as a backwardly angled oval shape, to help make the scye depth as shallow as possible. It is also thought to make the collar snugger and improves the fit around the neck-shoulder area. This is hyperbole. You'll also find it on Vestimenta RTW, among other places. IIRC, David Chu might have done some of his shoulders that way the first year, but I couldn't swear to it.